Member postings for oldvelo

Many years ago I was operating a Caterpillar D4 Crawler Tractor for a contractor who insisted on using heating diesel oil only. The motor always started easily and no running problems.

Look for any signs of heat discoloured metal on the morse taper socket.

By the amount of force used already it is possible that the mill has had the cutter stop and the spindle spin on the morse taper long enough to get red hot and when stopped has welded them solid.

More likely the pervious owner used big long spanner to winch up the drawbar way too tight.

Insert the morse taper of the tool half way into the socket then slap it firmly home.

Advice I was taught Use the correct size spanner on the drawbar,

Hold the spanner in your fingers put your thumb on the spanner at the centre line of the spindle.

The amount of torque applied with the fingers is enough to hold the drawbar firm.

An old mentor of mine in the now distant past "always tighten all four holes in a three jaw chuck". If one to tighten suits you that's fine. But why is there movement at each hole tightened and very hard to undo.

Same applies to a Drill chuck it settles the load evenly on the jaws.

An old mentor of mine back in time used to say. "To Tighten a three jaw chuck use the key in all of four holes".

It will be so tight you may need an extension on the chuck key handle to loosen it.

Never use an extension to tighten the chuck.

Hi Bill

"I think I'll probably devise a conversion using a poly V belt drive, but I'm not sure if I will be able to get a low enough drive ration in a single stage"

Any ratio with the flat belt as on th Kennedy Hacksaw can be replicated with Poly Vee Belts.

Machine the motor pulley with grooves on the centre line of the driven pulley. Machining grooves in the large diameter pulley is optional as the drive will work without the .grooves. and self centre on the crowned pulley.

Being Poly Vee Drive addict anything I build that is belt driven is with Poly Vee Belts fitted

Eric

Slightly off topic.

"" Forgive the slight deviation, but while we're at it I'd be interested to know people's preferred method for dispensing their neat cutting/tapping oil when machining, as long as it is a method that ensures I won't spill the oil on the floor"" .

Use a Pump type oil can with a "Pipe Cleaner" shoved in the spout with just a little bit of the tip stuck out to us as a rechargeable brush or to drip the oil from it.

You do not need to take your eyes off the job to thrash around to find the spill proof pot and splash fluid everywhere on the return stroke.

This has been my preffered method of applying cutting "Neat" fluid and kerosene mix for many years now.

As for "Bacon Grease" it's not acceptable as the salt used to cure the bacon is corrosive and when it goes rancid it Stinks. 

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 25/03/2022 19:00:31

Edited By oldvelo on 25/03/2022 19:03:20

A dollar is worth about ¾ of a pound. (Multiply £ by 1.3 to get $)

Massive slide in the exchange rate that I remember as being taught from a pre WW-2 text book of

$1 = 4s 2p

or 1 Pound Sterling. = $4 80c compared to 1 Pound Sterling = $1 30c

Grip Master 12 mm spanner as used by ICI Instrument Artificers 60 + years ago will do the job as they grip the flats on the nut back from the corners on four places.

What part of NO is it you do not understand

The round pin "Molex" connections come in multiple sockets. click on the link Molex

Trichoethylene, or Carbon Tetracloride are NOT to be used as solvents unless in a safe environment where you do not come into contact with the fumes or the liquid.

Years ago container of Trike with a thick film of Carbon Tetrachloride on the surface to keep the trike from evaporating or catching fire was used a lot for degreasing parts.

Hi John

Loads of info here Odney Manor hope this is of use

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 17/02/2022 15:51:26

Hi There is a correct way to tune the circuit to match the motor but not for the faint hearted or inexperienced.

It involves locking the motor rotor and setting the Amperage output to be LESS than the maximum of the motor rating by adjusting the correct Potentiometer.

I have the manual for adjusting a KB circuit on file. PM me for a copy if you want use it. I Strongly suggest the you have the setup performed by a qualified Electrician with the proper equipment to do the job safely.

One modification to a DC motor drive I keep on banging on about is to fit an Amp Meter to the motor leads to measure the motor amps under load.

Use this to set the power feed speed to be able to read that the power used is less than the motor output to prevent overloading.

A photo in my album will explain it better. The motor leads also have fuses on both motor leads

Edited By oldvelo on 17/02/2022 06:27:57

Edited By oldvelo on 17/02/2022 06:28:21

Hi

The control board looks like a KB Electronics AC to DC motor variable speed control.

The white rectangular block is a horse power restrictor The component that was damaged was probably fitted for some reason piggy back in parallel to the hp resistor.

Spares and an extensive range of information is available from KB Electronics.

Another source is available from Surplus Center

Click on the link Surplus Center have spares available to match the motor horsepower.

I have used Their  Minarik control on DC motors  and found the satisfactory once setup to match the motor power

Edited By oldvelo on 15/02/2022 04:00:16

I am much taller now as when I get down on the floor to reach under something it takes me longer to get up so it must be further so I must be taller.

Mine works fine 4 Ribs "J" section powered by a 1.25 hp DC motor

4 Rib Poly Vee conversion will out perform any Vee Belt

Poly Vee conversion will give better performance than vee belts. This conversion was done ona X2 mill years ago with a 1.25 hp DC Motor added. along with other mods giving Trouble free running ever since.

Are you using a reducng bush in the blade that is thicker than the blade.

A thinner blade may need to have the recess the clamping washer to be machined a little deeper.

Replace the clamp bolt with a brand new one plus flat washer and star washer.

Clean the clamping and blade oil and grease. Silcone lubricant spray if used on the saw is often the cause of the blade clamp slipping loose.

Not recommended to reduce the contact area.

Insert the morse taper into the socket 1/3 of it's length and slap it home firmly if the taper and socket are in good condition this is firm enough to drive the tool holder with the drawbar snugged up omly to hold it there.

You can make it a lot easier to release by not winching it up with a big long spanner.

Put your right thumb on the jaws of the spanner and apply pressure with three fingers with pinky as no 1 and

snug up firmly.

A forcing screw device to push the taper free is prefered over bashing it free withe a hammer.