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chocolate block jumpers

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duncan webster03/03/2016 17:42:44
5307 forum posts
83 photos

I'v sen some material cut out like a short legged blunt steel comb for connecting adjacent ferrules in chocolate blocks, proper name terminal strips. These would be very handy when I want to connect more than 2 wires together, but for the life of me I can't find a supplier. If I knew what they were officially called it would help. Anyone out there know?

JasonB03/03/2016 17:46:06
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25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

Put "connector block jumpers" into google or e-bay and you will get loads

Edited By JasonB on 03/03/2016 17:48:35

clivel03/03/2016 17:48:56
344 forum posts
17 photos

Terminal block jumpers, something like these **LINK** ?

Tim Stevens03/03/2016 18:53:12
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1779 forum posts
1 photos

Feed the words 'Wago connectors' into your search engine, and you will find plastic gizmos to join two, three or five wires together safely and without tools. And they are cheap.

Hope this helps

Tim

JasonB03/03/2016 19:03:50
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25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

1+ for the Wago connectors, I hardly use the old blocks now

Ajohnw03/03/2016 20:08:30
3631 forum posts
160 photos

Try the correct name "barrier strips". Any local electrician supplier will have them is various sizes.

They are also sometimes called terminal strips but there are several varieties of those.

Wago probably comes out cheaper if you search for terminal strips plus the word spring. They have been about for donkeys. Whoops the works quick connect might help with these too.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 03/03/2016 20:11:01

Edited By Ajohnw on 03/03/2016 20:17:09

JasonB03/03/2016 20:28:31
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25215 forum posts
3105 photos
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John, barrier strips are teh actuial choc blocks, Duncan wants the metal strips that can be screwed into one or more to electrically join them together

Ajohnw03/03/2016 20:52:29
3631 forum posts
160 photos

At work we always called them choc blocks Jason. First time I went into an electricians and asked for some they thought I had gone nuts then realised what I meant.

I missed the joiner part. Screwfix have some where the wires are pushed in or held via a clamp. Toolstation as well probably.

John

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Grizzly bear03/03/2016 21:01:12
337 forum posts
8 photos

Duncan,

eBay,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6A-12-Way-Block-Plug-In-Terminal-Strips-Connector-Blocks-Male-Female-/151974470598

Regards, Bear..

duncan webster03/03/2016 21:12:12
5307 forum posts
83 photos

The link from ClveL is for the type of terminal blocks you used to get in old telephones, not choc blocks.

Grizzly Bear's is for making terminal blocks into a sort of plug/socket. I want to join adjacent connectors in this type of block **LINK**

so that I can join lots of wires without pushing them in the same hole. I like the Wago suggestion, but they are not cheap, 40p each for the 5 way ones. Tempting tho' not having to fiddle around with screwdrivers on site when it's cold and raining. It's for the field wiring on our signalling system.

Speedy Builder503/03/2016 21:13:19
2878 forum posts
248 photos

problem with WAGOs is you can only use them once - choice bloc as many times as you like.

Johnboy2503/03/2016 21:42:33
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260 forum posts
3 photos

I believe there are a new design Wago type that allow you to insert and press a button, for a better word, to release the wire. I seen similar on other electrical equipment like inverters.

J.

Tim Stevens03/03/2016 23:17:14
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1779 forum posts
1 photos

Wago connectors of the old and new types can be used many times. they are not the same as the push in and that's it versions. Please do not castigate what you do not understand.

Tim

Ajohnw03/03/2016 23:44:49
3631 forum posts
160 photos

To do what you want to do Duncan with choc blocks I just use piece of wire - low volts just tinned copper. Mains - several pieces in the same hole making use of either end if needed. I don't think you can buy what you are after.

John

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Ed Duffner04/03/2016 02:04:44
863 forum posts
104 photos

I'd use wire myself too. I just found these though, never seen them before. Jumper bars.

**LINK**

Regards,
Ed.

John Rudd04/03/2016 07:54:30
1479 forum posts
1 photos

http://www.alliedelec.com/altech-corp-ca717-10/70077126/

Is this type of thing suitable ?

David Colwill04/03/2016 09:29:12
782 forum posts
40 photos

RS do an item called a commoning block which I find very useful.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/commoning-blocks/3882861/

is on example. They do various ones. They are however not cheap.

Regards.

David.

John Shepherd04/03/2016 10:44:04
222 forum posts
7 photos

Just to add to the debate - Under the latest UK house wiring regs, all screw type junction boxes etc have to be easily accessible. Some Wago connectors (other makes are available) are classed as maintenance free and can be used where they are not ultimately accessible, such as under floorboards etc. I think this is a good endorsement of their reliability.

I have used them and they are great when working in confined spaces, Time will tell but I have come across a lot of doggy screw connector joints and will even admit to being responsible for one or two myself (in poorly designed connectors of course!).

Screw terminal junction boxes and Choc bocks, Lego brick connectors, barrier strips, call them what you will are the last choice for me now. I even prefer crimps in some circumstances, provided the right crimp and a good ratchet type crimp tool are used.

Going back to choc blocks and in particular, stranded conductors, there is always the problem of stray wires and there is a temptation to tin the bare wire with solder. This cures one problem but unfortunately, causes another in that it creates a weak point and I have seen several fractures of the wire at the junction of the tinned wire and the insulation. Crimp "bootlace" ferrules overcome this.

If using connector blocks, I would not use ready made jumpers unless it is a 'production run', I'd save money and make them from solid copper wire.

Hope that helps.

Ajohnw04/03/2016 11:49:35
3631 forum posts
160 photos

I find the "wago" approval of things like installing 13 amp spurs of a ring main odd John as they haven't been around all that long. The usual round junction boxes have. They started specifying things like earth bonding and sleeving the earth wire in sockets etc in the 70's all based on problems that have happened rather than theory. Also providing an earth wire termination in plastic boxes. Maybe thing have moved on to catering for electricians who can't wire up correctly. Personally I don't mind working on live mains at home providing I have my neon screw driver handy in case some idiot has crossed live and neutral. They are essential when twin switches are on a single light.

The stray wires from stranded wire is a problem on screw terminals used in a number of things. The natural tendency is to twist the strands together and then push them in and tighten down the screw. Fine but if some one checks the screw tightness later they will find that they have loosened off. If the strands aren't twisted the screws stay tight. It's worse on the better quality barrier strips where the screws press a spring leaf onto the wire.

There are crimps available to hold the strands together. Solder can be used with some care but only a sort of dab on the end usually done with a solder pot not an iron. If the whole bare end is done it needs some care in things like plugs as it can flow well back up the insulation and is likely to leave stress when the cable is fitted. There is a stress point at the end of the solder anyway as John pointed out. A lot depends one where it's used and vibration. Most things these days come with plugs on often moulded but I have come across leads that have been prepared for a plug by careful tinning. Always very neatly done. Even the strands have been nice and tightly bunched up in the solder. Not the easiest of things to do with a soldering iron.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 04/03/2016 11:52:13

KWIL04/03/2016 12:14:39
3681 forum posts
70 photos

It is preferable NOT to solder the ends if those ends are to be clamped by a screw, the solder "flows" under the mechanical pressure of the screw and the joint will become lose.

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