Wolfie | 20/12/2015 11:02:14 |
![]() 502 forum posts | Whats the best thread lock to get??
I know people say Loctite, but when you look theres dozens of different types! |
Lambton | 20/12/2015 11:05:55 |
![]() 694 forum posts 2 photos | I do not think the maker of the thread locking material is as important as getting the correct grade for the job in hand. |
pgk pgk | 20/12/2015 11:33:39 |
2661 forum posts 294 photos | As you say dozens of different types. I once treated a threadlock rep's pet and we got chatting... his company made variations for every field... threadlocks for specific vibration ranges or temperatures or contaminations. I'm a simple (minded) hobbyist and for me it's blue if i plan to undo it. Red if I may have to undo it or green if i never wish to undo it <s>. Local hardware shop used to stock (I think it was bond-it brand) blue that happily stated one could use it one parts with their machining oils still on... saved all that degreasing effort and still a sporting chance of uscrewing it without a need to cook it first. |
Wolfie | 20/12/2015 12:23:52 |
![]() 502 forum posts | What you mean by blue/red/green?? |
Ajohnw | 20/12/2015 12:32:43 |
3631 forum posts 160 photos | There are basically several grades for specific purposes, Thread lock - if you ever want to undo it good luck. Another thread lock intended to be undone with hand tools if needed. Then comes retainers. These tend to be for situations with less clearance than threads typically have. Loctite don't appear to offer one but there are grades intended to work in much the same way as nyloc nuts do. I recently noticed a grade suitable for propane fittings in a video. I generally buy out of date Loctite from a local bearing supplier. It's much cheaper and from my experience is still fine. I used some recently that was out of date when some one gave it to me that must be 15 years old now. Might even be more. It still works but might not have the locking capabilities it initially had. I'd expect to have considerable difficulty undoing it with hand tools. The main aspect with that really is no grease or oil on the parts but I have often used it without going over the top with that and it still works. Using it is a bit like super glue but not so bad. It's a similar technology which is why there is always air in the bottle. Typically people squeeze a drop out and then loosen their grip while the nozzle is still pointing downwards. It's best to do that nozzle up especially with super glue as it will suck the excess back in. The Loctite web site used to be very informative but some years ago the company was taken over and last time I looked it was useless. That was some time ago now. Suppliers sometimes have a small booklet around, or they did. John - |
phil burley | 20/12/2015 13:12:21 |
![]() 45 forum posts 1 photos | why does my loctite other sort alway seem to go off in the container long before its finished ? regards Phil |
Tim Stevens | 20/12/2015 13:42:39 |
![]() 1779 forum posts 1 photos | It goes off because it is a chemical which changes (polymerises) in the absence of air. In the tube it slowly oxidizes as many chemicals do, using up the oxygen, so it starts the hardening process. The rate of degrading depends on the space in the tube, the temperature, and other factors including the presence (or not) of metal contaminants. I think Tim Edited By Tim Stevens on 20/12/2015 13:43:14 |
Chris Evans 6 | 20/12/2015 14:02:03 |
![]() 2156 forum posts | Because of limited shelf life I buy little tubes from Halfords. I use it as thread lock and bearing lock/seal, red in colour and can be undone with a bit of effort. From memory around £3.50 I shall be buying some more in the next day or so as I have just run out. |
JA | 20/12/2015 14:25:22 |
![]() 1605 forum posts 83 photos | Unlike super glue threadlock/ bearing retainer does not like cold storage. At one time the Loctite website said at they should be kept above 5C. I try to store them in the house during the winter, not my cold workshop, and have not had any age since starting this pactice about 8 years ago. One other point, never use a bit of copper wire to free the nozzle. The glue will very rapidly age. JA |
martin perman | 20/12/2015 14:31:00 |
![]() 2095 forum posts 75 photos | Gentlemen, As a slight aside I ran out of general purpose Loctite glue yesterday so whilst in town I bought some cheap stuff from one of the £1.00 shops, I used it this morning to make a couple of repairs for my wife on different materials and it works a treat, you get four bottles of similar size to loctite and so far I'm pleased. I have a bottle of Loctite thread lock which I've had for over ten years and it is still usable. Martin P |
pgk pgk | 20/12/2015 15:00:43 |
2661 forum posts 294 photos | Posted by Wolfie on 20/12/2015 12:23:52:
What you mean by blue/red/green?? Just that... the colour of the threadlocks I've used. Examples typical 242 is blue and used primarily to stop nuts undoing. When you do uno them there's a powdery residue in the threads Locktite 272 is red, high temp, high hold.. and my understanding that primarily meant as a stud lock since you generally aren't planning on swapping the studs out but can with decent heat. Green ones (again my understanding) are generally bearing 'glues'. I have some chinese stuff labelled R42 and , man, if you need to undo that you'll be getting the blowlamp out...probably equivelent to locktite 638. |
Ketan Swali | 20/12/2015 15:37:58 |
1481 forum posts 149 photos | Posted by Wolfie on 20/12/2015 12:23:52:
What you mean by blue/red/green?? Hi Wolfie, Have a look at the chart on this page link first and decide if you are looking for retainers or thread lockers. Then near the bottom of that page, click on relative products page, example thread lockers page link Once you are on thread lockers page, there is another chart. Depending on which product you choose. there is a download to data sheet for each product. If you click it, it will give you further details about the product, including colour in physical properties. For people who have a concern, yes I know that the links are to products on ARCs site, and I apologise in advance if this offends anyone. Wolfie is asking for information, so I am suggesting the links. Loctite is a great brand. Truloc is a brand which ARC sells, and specifications are similar to Loctite, so I hope that the links should help Wolfie to understand the products better, regardless of where he decides to buy them from. Ketan at ARC. |
Wolfie | 20/12/2015 19:26:22 |
![]() 502 forum posts | That was exactly the information I was after, thanks Ketan |
john swift 1 | 20/12/2015 19:40:50 |
![]() 318 forum posts 183 photos | I've used the red and blue thread lock in the past this may help :-
John
|
Harry Wilkes | 20/12/2015 21:34:09 |
![]() 1613 forum posts 72 photos | I worked in the thread locking industry for a number of years and as it's already been said there are different one's for different applications but if you ever stuck nail varnish can be pressed into service. H |
stan pearson 1 | 20/12/2015 22:23:34 |
![]() 135 forum posts 2 photos | Hi Wolfie If you go to www.loctite.co.uk you will find a full list of there products and uses Stan |
Roger Head | 20/12/2015 23:58:19 |
209 forum posts 7 photos | My bottle of 277 (red) is more than 20 years old, and still works fine. Locks up the nuts but can be readily taken apart. But as others have said, some of the threadlockers are deadly, especially if they cover an extended length of thread e.g. 20mm on a small diameter bolt will mean that you shear the bolt before the thread releases. Lots of heat is your only hope. The thin formulations can really 'wick in'. I once read a report (some problem on an aircraft) in which traces of a threadlocker were detected along a 200mm path, basically attributed to capillary action. I've got a bottle of green threadlocker somewhere (can't remember the number) that must be 15+ years old, but I very rarely use it - I generally like to have the option of taking something apart, maybe! The activators for use with the retainer grade e.g. for fixing anodized aluminium together, can work exceedingly well - when you come to put the two pieces together you'd better get it exactly right, and fast. It can be almost like superglue. If you haven't used it before, I'd suggest getting some of the weaker and some of the really strong grades, then do a few tests on threads that are, say, just 'wiped over' clean, and others that are truly clean (degreasers, alcohol-wiped, etc) so that you have a true appreciation of how strong they can be. Roger |
Danny M2Z | 21/12/2015 03:48:12 |
![]() 963 forum posts 2 photos | Loctite 222 (purple) is very good for retaining small screws when later disassembly may be required, yet it's strong enough to hold the telescopic scope mount screws on very high powered rifles (.338 etc). Check the data sheet. * Danny M * |
Ajohnw | 21/12/2015 10:52:09 |
3631 forum posts 160 photos | Posted by phil burley on 20/12/2015 13:12:21:
why does my loctite other sort alway seem to go off in the container long before its finished ? regards Phil The only thing I have noticed on my 15 year old bottle is that it takes longer to set. I'd guess your problem is rather like the super glue one - some on the end and no clear air path back into the bottle when the cap is put on. Or maybe it's the brand or grade. My old bottle is 229. I also have a bottle of TruLock 395 that must be several years old and is still fine. That one is for hand disassembly. Also some LocTite 270, my "newer bottle". I do have to squeeze the bottle a little tube up and wipe of any that comes out with a tissue to keep that one clear. The 229 is much runnier. That one also works as a retainer for me but can't say as I use it for anything extreme or often.
John - |
Michael Gilligan | 21/12/2015 12:20:01 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Danny M2Z on 21/12/2015 03:48:12:
Loctite 222 (purple) is very good for retaining small screws when later disassembly may be required . Agreed, Danny ... Excellent stuff !! I use it on those little screws in the frames of my spectacles ... effective, but suitably gentle hold [I haven't lost a lens, or sheared a screw yet] Incidentally, I have one bottle marked 222e and one marked 222 ... does anyone know the difference. [ yes I know it's 'e' ] MichaelG. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 21/12/2015 12:32:59 |
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