Member postings for john swift 1

Looking at the photos in post 3

it looks like you have something like the 3 phase variac from RS components

RS stock number 890-2856

your variac terminals look like this

the letters A to E match the RS Components diagram

the neutral, if used , going to the star point C1+C2+C3

if you connected your lamp between 1 & 3 (C & E) and it did not work

check the winding continuity between 1 & 5 (A & C) and the carbon brush is OK and making contact with the winding

John

Edited By john swift 1 on 15/12/2019 18:37:34

Going by your photo it looks like it the 208 V input had been wired a fixed 89% tap and common input / output

to give you a stepped up output of 234V 1.125% out across the total winding

For single phase use

I would rewire the transformer to connect your single phase supply to the ends of the winding

with the output taken between the common and the wiper (variable tap)

you will have 0 to 100% of your mains supply available

John

add diagram

Edited By john swift 1 on 15/12/2019 14:11:58

According to their web site Hotter shoes have shops in Liverpool , Llandudno and Chester

you could e-mail or call them on 01695 213 213 to check if they have narrow fitting shoes

John

looking at your last photo

the original switch incorperates a no volt release ( I expect the black part is a 220/240V coil )

I would of thought the 3 blue cam switch elements may of been wired like this

John

The reason I connected the switched live via the E-stop switch to A1 is

An accidental short between A1 and neutral or earth will blow the mains fuse

If you had live to terminal 13 and neutral to terminal 23

an accidental short between A1 and neutral or earth would energise the coil when the E-stop switch is open

assuming the mains supply is not protected by a residual current circuit breaker

john

KJD17 E-stop wiring diagram

yes but , it all will depend on the drive having an interlock that forces you to start at a low speed

if you can start a full speed then a 1A fuse will be too low a current - you may need a 4 or 5A fuse

using a slow blow fuse will help -

for example if the original fuse was a 1A slow blow fuse would be marked T1.0A

John

Edited By john swift 1 on 01/05/2019 00:19:52

looking at photos of the switches

the KJD17B has the solenoid connectly to the switched output terminals 14 & 24

the CK21 has only one end of the solenoid connected to the switched output 2

the other end of the solenoid goes to a small 5th terminal you have to connect to switched output 1

this enables you to add one or more normally closed remote E-stop switches

use terminals 3 & 4 as the mains input

if you don't need to add any E-stop switches you can use either switch

John

Edited By john swift 1 on 13/04/2019 09:45:52

Have a look at how coil feed Escomatic lathes straighten the stock

see page 3

https://www.escomatic.ch/media/gallery/machines/d2-d5-flexspeed-e.pdf

John

Hi Clogs

is this what your looking for

https://www.electricalonline4u.com/2018/01/forward-reverse-motor-control-diagram-three-phase.html

John

as the fault was swarf shorting the semiconductors metal tab to the heatsink

it looks like the speed control is a copy of KB electronics KBLC-240D (or some thing similar )

KB electronics use devices that have isolated TAB's on the 3 diodes & 2 thyristors ( forming a controlled bridge rectifier ) & does not require the insulator

the copies use cheaper devices that don't have isolated TAB's and there for requires the insulator

john

Edited By john swift 1 on 13/08/2018 21:32:13

I suspect your the second person to look inside !

Some one else has had it  apart and not reassembled it correctly

John

Edited By john swift 1 on 27/07/2018 12:03:18

It may be possible

but it depends on the motors being identical and the mechanical load on the motors being the same

my instinct is to use a 24V supply and a separate speed control for each motor

what are you wanting to do with the motors ?

If its some kind of electric vehicle is it possible to have the motors driving the same drive shaft ?

John

Edited By john swift 1 on 19/07/2018 11:36:58

its missing from the contents page but is on page 60

John

the nearest I have found is this :-

http://cdn1.grizzly.com/manuals/g4015z_m.pdf

figure 17 on page 21 shows a low resolution diagram

do  two of the wires have short wires crimped on to make the diagonal connections to the switch ???

if you test the continuity between the 4 wires from the motor

I would expect you will find two wires   (V1 V2 )  have continuity and they need to be wired across the middle 2 switch terminals

the other  two wires (U1 U2)  motor wires will go to the start winding that's in series with a capacitor

and will connect directly to the mains supply from the NV release switch

John

Edited By john swift 1 on 22/06/2018 17:37:53

looking at the video link from blowlamp

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=X6CCxv3i4No

at 19:59 you can see what looks like the light from a red LED

I assume the speed control is controlled by the amount of reflected light from the movable flag / reflector

the mod with the graded reflector giving a better range of control

as MichaelG says looking up the device part data sheet will make things easier

may be its like this Sharp GP2S700HCP

https://cdn.sharpsde.com/fileadmin/products/Optoelectronics/Isolation%20Devices/Specs_Photointerrupter/GP2S700HCP_03Oct05_DS_D3-A02201FEN.pdf

John

Edited By john swift 1 on 20/06/2018 17:47:59

I have found a view of the mechanical latch on another D.O.L. starter

when the over load has been reset it holds a normally open switch closed

the dial (or on some units a lever ) adjusts the value of current the latch is released

when one or more of the bi-metallic stripes are heated by the motor current 

exceeds the maximum current you have set as the trip current

the adjustment of the green knob moves  a hinged  insulated bar that the  bi-metallic strips push on to release the latch

   John

Edited By john swift 1 on 16/06/2018 19:55:12

that's the adjuster to set the trip current for the motor you are using

single & 3 phase wiring

john

PS

your machine could be like this Warco wm180 -

http://andysmachines.weebly.com/variable-speed-controls.html

John