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Myford rear toolpost

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Mark P.15/12/2015 10:50:51
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634 forum posts
9 photos
IMHO rear toolposts are a vexation to the spirit, all the ones I've used just get in the way eespecially on a smaller machine. I tried one on my WM250 after I'd ripped the back of my hand open on the parting blade 4 or 5 times I used it as a paperweight, as I said just my opinion but each to their own.
Mark P.
Vic15/12/2015 11:02:35
3453 forum posts
23 photos

Nice Job Alan!

Martin Kyte15/12/2015 11:04:21
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3445 forum posts
62 photos

That's not a Myford rear tool post that's a rear toolpost mounted on a Myford and as built it's clearly not adjustable for centre hight.

Martin

KWIL15/12/2015 11:27:24
3681 forum posts
70 photos

Martin is so correct.

Apart from a slight advantage in having the "parting tool available all the time", I have never found the need to fit a rear mounted tool, much of the hype for such tools is over stated.

A properly set up blade + insert on the normal front QCTP works every time (for me) on all my lathes, large and small.

Now argue about that.

Clive India15/12/2015 11:36:36
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277 forum posts
Posted by Grotto on 15/12/2015 00:58:49:

I'm not blaming/dogging the seller, but the whole unit came as a package specific for the ML7.

If that is the case, I think you should return it.

So far, there has been several solutions for you - Neil Wyatt has given you two and Merry Miller has a practical solution, with many others taking part. So it boils down to two options with the skills/equipment you have I think - either modify the tool or change the holder. If you keep it, the tool can easily be modified. If you do not have the skills/equipment to modify the toolpost, then you have to change it.

Kwill and Martin make a good point and I can see what they mean - there is little time saved and it gets in the way sometimes, but having got it, I use this (excuse me for not cleaning it)....

Edited By Clive India on 15/12/2015 11:42:05

Edited By Clive India on 15/12/2015 11:42:47

Michael Gilligan15/12/2015 15:44:08
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos
Posted by Alan Jackson on 15/12/2015 10:23:24:

I made a base with a slope so that the upper part can slide to the right height.

.

That's very neat, Alan

yes

MichaelG.

Vic15/12/2015 16:12:50
3453 forum posts
23 photos

That's very nice Clive, even if too dirty to be posted in good conscience! smiley No really, I like it!

Emgee15/12/2015 17:44:09
2610 forum posts
312 photos

rtp adjuster.jpgThis RTP may be like Alans, made by a toolmaker many years ago, could have been from plans I'm not sure. I find it very useful for grooving and parting without problems.

2 more pictures in my Album.

Emgee

.rtp on lathe.jpg

Edited By Emgee on 15/12/2015 17:45:01

Neil Wyatt15/12/2015 20:10:04
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles
Posted by Lambton on 14/12/2015 16:41:16:

Neil have you "moderated" my recent post?

Not that I am aware of, I haven't deleted anything and if I have edited a post it will say so at the bottom.

Neil

Howard Lewis15/12/2015 21:46:46
7227 forum posts
21 photos

Sorry to take issue with Mark P, but a rear toolpost is a boon. It seems to solve parting off problems for many people. This will probabl;y reignite all the theories as to why/how!

I was sufficiently impressed with the results from the one that I made for my ML7, that I made a four way one for its larger oriental successor, to carry a front chamfer and back chamfer tool, as well as the parting tool. It VERY rarely leaves the Cross Slide, maybe because of the chamfering tools, but wouldn't be without it.

Again, my advice is to mod the post, as a "once and for all time" job, in case you ever find the need to mount any other tool on it.

Howard

Michael Gilligan15/12/2015 22:27:43
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

Grotto,

My summary:

  • The toolpost is about 2mm too high
  • The base has a tongue, which you would prefer to keep
  • You don't have either a milling machine or a shaper

My suggestion:

  • Saw the post into two, at some convenient horizontal.
  • Face each part in the lathe [having first checked that the lathe faces 'flat' or 'very slightly concave' as per Dr Schlesinger's recommendation]
  • Re-assemble, and check the new height [repeat, or add shim, as required]
  • When it's "just right" you can [optionally] add dowels, adhesive, or whatever, to keep the two parts in register.
  • Live happily ever-after smiley

MichaelG.

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