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Workshop Heating

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Bryan Rozier08/01/2010 13:27:58
13 forum posts
Insulation definitely helps, dont forget a vapour barrier if you use Rock Wool.
 
My floor is solid concrete so a couple of (ALDI?) cheapo 3/4" thick rubber mats help to keep the toes warm.
 
I use a fan heater to warm mine up when I'm in there and keep all the tools covered when not in use.
 
Cheers
Bryan
Allen Paddock08/01/2010 14:51:17
24 forum posts
My workshop is about 24 feet long and about 12 feet wide at one end is the m/bikes with 2 big covers over them a low wattage heater running underneath them ,When i go in to do some work i use a fan heater,But today i went in to sharpen a drill when i went to quench it in the the jar of water by the grinder the water was frozen solid.Roll on the spring.
ChrisH08/01/2010 17:12:32
1023 forum posts
30 photos
Hi,
I have a very small workshop - 8' x 12' - in which I keep 'Coldwatch' or something electric heater, 500w, leave it on froststat to in theory keep the temp above 5 degC but it struggles in the current cold weather, has fallen to 1 degC in there.  I also have a little wood burner picked up in a French second-hand shop, flued to outside, when I am working out there I get this going and it certainly heats the place up to 12-15 degC in no time (well, OK then, an hour or so) which is about 55 to 60 degF in real money, ie, comfortable.
 
I also have a load of insulation to go up in the roof which at the moment is just 1" wooden planks with a layer of roofing felt over and pan tiles, all open to the room below.  Wicks were doing a buy-one-get two-free offer on wrapped 6" roof insulation recently - may still be doing it - so got enough to insulate the roof but now looking for a very cheap way of cladding it when I get round to sticking the stuff up there.  Must stick it up there, it's got to be a great help!
 
Regards,
ChrisH 
Gordon W08/01/2010 17:34:41
2011 forum posts
Wood burners are great and cheap to  run on scraps, but not worth bothering unless you are going to be in all day. I used to make them, for a workshop get a suitable lump of box section, maybe 8" or 12" sq. and 10 mm plate and 5" dia. pipe for flue, weld bolt or rivet together. Mach. Mart sell quite cheap ones. Cladding- see whats cheapest at builders yard, I used stirling board, do you have auctions near you, often get damaged stuff like boards. A good 2 coats of the cheapest white emulsion works wonders.Best way to stop condensation is ventilation, wood burner helps with that. I don't like using plastic etc. as a cover, prefer old bed sheet, curtain etc. so it can breath.
ChrisH08/01/2010 22:44:52
1023 forum posts
30 photos
Gordon,
I would agree re the wood burner - mine is only a very small capacity one and at the moment I am using up all the soft wood offcuts I have, so the stove needs stocking every 20 mins!  I have some hardwood logs to try next, and some charcoal which may be hotter and longer lasting.
 
I will look at stirling board, it may be an answer to my cladding needs. T&G strip cladding which is what I was looking at is about 6 quid a sq.m, about twice the sq.m cost of stirling board but looks better!
 
Regards, Chris 
Gordon W09/01/2010 12:17:23
2011 forum posts
That stirling board sounds dear to me, where are you? Forgot to mention the biggest heat saver ( in my shack) Double glazing, this is all second hand and cheap or free. check auction ,salvage yards, double glazing firms, mates who are upgrading etc. You can cut the plastic frames easily, and fit to hole in wall with timber packing and lots of mastic.( like the profesionals) or just use the glass and make your own frames.
Circlip09/01/2010 13:04:45
1723 forum posts
I'd second the Larger local double glazing firms, surprising how many "Wrong" sizes are made.
 
  Regards Ian.
Billy Mills13/01/2010 23:58:50
377 forum posts
Now is a good time to buy insulation cheap, B & Q are selling three rolls of  insulation for £5.00. May not be around many more days though!
 
regards,
Alan.
DMB14/01/2010 11:50:25
1585 forum posts
1 photos
Hi all,
I have 4-off, 40W bulbs  in batten holders,wired in series in protective box on mill swarf tray, under lots of large thick plastic bags over mill. Switched on  9 months of year except June-August, subject to weather conditions. Keeps air just slightly warmer around mill with gently-glowing bulbs which seem to last forever as they are not running at full brilliance and temperature. Doesn`t cost much to run. Have got back-ups never used; a de-humidifier and oil-filled radiator. Myford has a lathe cover, no heat. Very large bench drill has empty building sand bag over top, no heat. Rust? whats that?!!
I should add that I live in "Sunny(?) South" and workshop heavily insulated.
John. 
Ian Welford14/01/2010 20:52:57
300 forum posts
I put an 8ft oil flled electric radiator on the wall. Thermostat is set to 12 C which keeps the air warm enoguh to prevent condensation and rust.
 
Concrete floor covered in 18mm chipboard and scraps of old carpet for cosier tootsies.
 
Floored in the loft but really should put insulation underneath ( cos there's loads of stuff stored on top of the floor up there!
 
I was considering rubberised insultaion but it's black which means repainitng the whole lot white after installing it.
 
Roof does thaw before the unheated garage does but then again 2 iced cars go into that each night so comparison's a bit unfair.
 
Ian
Funnyturn15/01/2010 11:27:47
20 forum posts
There is an anti corrosion product caled ACF-50 which many motorcyclists etc swear by. See:
 
www.acf-50.co.uk/
 
It is available on ebay at around £14.
 
Brian
ChrisH15/01/2010 15:02:05
1023 forum posts
30 photos
Watched the RNLI recover their inshore lifeboat at Lyme Regis a couple of years back.  
 
They floated the boat onto it's trailer which was fairly well submerged, as was the towing tractor.  When it was hauled out and washed down they pressure sprayed WD40 over everything, using massive drums of the stuff.
 
It obviously works for them...............
 
I now spray the engine compartment of my boat with WD40 too - when I can remember to do it!    It's readily available and not too expensive, should work in the workshop too.
DMB15/01/2010 16:25:33
1585 forum posts
1 photos
Hi all,
My workshop is 10x8 garden shed cocooned in felt and apex roof + South wall have sandwich of B&Q large bubble plastic sheet. Inside roof has 2 inch Polystyrene board. Inside walls, 3-ply plywood and void stuffed with fi-glass loft insulation.
John 
Circlip15/01/2010 16:48:14
1723 forum posts
"Duck Oil", same as WD but was half the cost. Thing with WD is that it's a Water Dispersant, not a long term protective.
 
   Regards  Ian.
ChrisH15/01/2010 18:35:49
1023 forum posts
30 photos
Hi Ian,
I would agree - WD40 doesn't seem to stay around long time - I'll try some Duck Oil (on your recommendation!) and see how it goes. 
 
Regards, Chris 
Richard Marks17/01/2010 18:04:44
218 forum posts
8 photos
Gentlemen
Down here in sunny or snowy devon a large store called trago stock a product called Hycote Maintainence Spray, sticks like the proverbial and is capable of keeping rust at bay, best of all its half the price of WD and DWF, do not leave tools soaking in duck oil as it can stain, I left a lot of hss taps soaking in it and they came out black.
Regards
Dick
Ian Welford19/01/2010 22:17:37
300 forum posts
according to a colleague  a fair bit of WD 40 isa light grade  paraffin and evaporates off leaving the light machine oil it contains behind.
 
Richard- did the stained taps rust though afterwards? Don't care hwat they look like as liong as they're protected.
 
Ian
Ian S C20/01/2010 00:25:08
avatar
7468 forum posts
230 photos
I'v got a mate who keeps his spare drills and tap in plastic boxes half filled with diesel fuel,I'm not really sure why he does it as he has no corrosion problems with the rest of his gear,but they stay clean,you have to degrease them though before using.Ian S C
DMB20/01/2010 09:41:15
1585 forum posts
1 photos
Hi all,
Further to my posts, 14/1,15/1,  I find that a short while using mill or lathe, motors do a lot of the heating and my workshop never hits 0C. Have got Six`s max/min thermometer to tell me whats going on. I keep a small range of frequently used tools in shop, e.g., couple of files ,hammers, a mallet, some spanners specific to Myford and mill, limited range of dies, taps and thei tapping size drills. I keep in the house, sets of taps, dies, drills, endmills, slotdills and accessories for lathe + mill not in use. Almost all metal stock is in house. Small pieces steel kept in PLASTIC containers, non-ferrous in metal tins, like McVities Victoria biscuits - its longer than usual round steel sweet tin so holds longer bits. I like the new Celebratios box in plastic, new last year - just right for odds sods of steel.
I look at drawings on cold/wet/sowy eves indoors  + plan job(s) to do on my next workshop session and pick metals/castings/cutters etc + put in toolbox ready to carry down garden ot workshop. This system works better than it sounds.
John 
Richard Marks20/01/2010 17:51:10
218 forum posts
8 photos
Ian
In answer to your question re rust, no rust but I was unable to read the sizes on the taps that were etched. All loose taps now kept in small heavy duty plastic bags in a plastic container in a cupboard. Went down to my workshop in the cold snap and switched on my 9 fin oil filled radiator, within 10 minutes there was a small pinging noise and about a pint of oil spread all over the floor, luckily it was only one fin that ruptured,heater now consigned to bin, purchased a new one and will remember not to be too hasty next time.
Dick

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