Restoring a wooden tool box, help needed

Thanks Bo’sun

Will get some danish oil and give that a try.

Yes like the Bosun said, but............what did you glue it up with, I need to know.!

Pete

Anyone found a way of getting old (machine) oil out of the wooden parts of a well used toolbox so that glued repairs can be attempted? I have tried using turps substitute which got the dirty oily surface clean but left a residue which the glue would not adhere to.

There is a product called "Chair Doctor" made by Veritas, and sold by Hobbies and Amazon etc., which is a very low viscosity glue. It wicks by capillery action into loose mortise and tenon joints of chairs, and it sounds as if it would be useful for toolbox joints which cannot easily be dismantled.

Rod

If the toolbox has a varnish or lacquer finish on already then an oil finish will be of no good as it relies on Penetrating the wood and the other finishes will prevent this happening. Even if you sand the box there will always be a residue of the varnish or lacquer remaining may result in a blotchy finish.

I know it is difficult but try a like for like finish if you can find out what was originally on there. Sanding back and reapply a varnish or lacquer.

Edited By Derek Lane on 27/09/2020 10:29:12

Veritas is a trade name of Lee Valley Tools, Ottawa. A family owned firm. Google it to view some treasures.

" Anyone found a way of getting old (machine) oil out of the wooden parts of a well used toolbox "

Recent "Salvage Hunters The Restorers" think they poured Meths onto an oil soaked panel and ignited the Meths, it drew the oil out.

Regards Ian.

They also use Meths and fine wire wool for cleaning existing varnish before refinishing.

Edited By Circlip on 27/09/2020 12:25:01

I lived right by their store and manufacturing location in Ottawa (Nepean) for years. It was a very expensive time for me.

It was a definite ‘must visit’ whenever we went to Ottawa. Space In our luggage was always made for quite a few quids worth of stuff, on our return.

Using meths as a cleaner on varnish has been used for many years and is very effective

You can use Oxalic acid to remove oil and stains from wood, use liberally and allow to dry then wash off and rub on lime or borax to help neutralise the acid and wash off. Allow plenty of time to dry naturally -- don't dry with heat. However gently heat will bring oil to the surface and you can wipe it off but I have found the acid works better ,at least on gun stocks !

Please do wear suitable protective gear, Oxalic acid is not really nasty like say Nitric acid but still treat with v=care and respect.

John

edit - forgot to say you mix the acid crystals with water to apply to the wood

Edited By JohnF on 27/09/2020 20:32:10

Edited By JohnF on 27/09/2020 20:32:28

Thanks Ian. I will try the meths and fire, it sounds like something a wizard might do!

Thanks John. If the meths does not work I will get some oxalic acid and try that.

Rod

Hello Pete, i used Gorilla Glue, just the normal white wood glue.

bit unsure but it has worked really well.

now had 2 coats of the danish oil and is starting to look really good,

would like a bit more of a shine but maybe this will come with a few more coats.

Thanks all.

Edited By Brian Abbott on 27/09/2020 21:20:10

Turps and Turps Substitute are both light oils, so although they dissolve out thicker oils the residue is also oily and bad for glue. I'd try scrubbing and rinsing the turps off with with a good dose of meths - a two stage clean.

I like the idea of setting fire to a surface splash of meths as a way of drawing out deeper oil, but it's an outdoors job with a bucket of water. Oil soaked wood and burning meths - what could possibly go wrong?

Dave

Thanks for the reply, I just wondered what you would opt for after all the advice. I like "normal" monkey glue, but not sure about the expanding stuff myself. Danish oil does need a coat or two, but can be tidied up at any time later with a quick sand and an added coat. Light sand and thin coats

Pete

Hello all.

So, i have given this about 6 coats of oil,

and is looking so much better but would like to give it a coat of wax to give it a little more sheen.

Any reason why i shouldn’t?

thanks all

Leave it for about a week then add wax if you want to

I still have a bottle of oxilic acid from my working life ,like John F it is the best to remove stains from wood,I used it often with good result ,I don't know where one would buy it today are gone when you could get chemicals from your local chemist.

Frank

Ebay for one

pgk

One of the reasons that I love this forum. Where else in our Heath and Safety obsessed world could we get such advice 😁

David

Edited By David Noble on 02/10/2020 20:54:16

Sadly, the nanny state has pre determined that the Jean Pool is at the point of drying up, coupled with the fact that ingineering as a full time job is only carried out in the far east, the old Alchemy wheezes drop into obscurity. I'll bet our black arts are still practised in these satanic manufactories' who haven't heard of HSE. Bet there aren't any "Factories Act" posters on their walls.

Still, we are good at flipping burgers and wearing buttons out killing aliens and crashing cars.

Regards Ian.