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Nige25/08/2017 15:39:29
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370 forum posts
65 photos

Can you change to a smaller nozzle at an appropriate point to print finer detail ?

Neil Wyatt25/08/2017 16:11:39
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles
Posted by Ady1 on 25/08/2017 09:20:26:

Would you feel happy with, say, camera adaptors made using this system Neil

Well I've made several and I'm very happy with them

I can't vouch for them having along life, but for occasional use or if not regularly removed and replaced they should be fine.

The thread above is for a T-mount to EF adaptor, the opposite of normal, designed for someone who wants to fit an Canon lens to an astrophotography camera. The only commercial adaptor:

www.altairastro.com/canon-eos-lens-to-ccd-adapter.html

is too thick to allow them to use it with a filter wheel. I've made one for myself and it fits both the female t-mount and the male bayonet well.

I've also printed one to fit my AP camera to a 9x50mm finderscope, to use it as a guidescope. Basically two 07mm pitch threads back to back, that saved me £30

I printed a T-mount to 0.965" eyepiece socket adaptor which worked well, but I replaced it when I found I could buy an aluminium one for £7. I'm not that much of a cheapskate. Soime of these I will repalce if I get anodising sorted in the future.

A downside of 3D printing is that you tend to go through various prototypes... if you were cutting metal the cut and try approach wouldn't work. Currently printing a MK3 device that combines a scope mounting wedge with a pair of guide rings - much more solid than the conventional wedge plus two separate rings. Nylon M6 screws are used to adjust and secure the scope in place.

This combined with a printed holder for a 300mm tele lens with a similar wedge will let me do some 'semi widefield' imaging of large objects with them mounted on a cross bar with two dovetail sockets that fits in the single socket of my mount. this latter device is milled from huge chunks of aluminium, you'll be relieved to hear!

Neil

Nick Hulme25/08/2017 18:07:07
750 forum posts
37 photos
Posted by Muzzer on 25/08/2017 14:48:19:

, the bead is being drawn out, even if it is finally flatted into a pancake section.

I don't think "bead" is a useful term when discussing the extrusion of molten plastic through a round nozzle positioned very close to a flat surface.

The software sets the extrusion speed such that the space between the nozzle and the bed or work is kept full of molten plastic as the nozzle moves, there is no "solid thing" to be "drawn out" or "flattened" as the nozzle moves

- Nick

Robin31/08/2017 18:27:44
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678 forum posts

I printed a Dremel attachment, not exactly fine pitch but does the job.

Makes you wonder how we managed back when printers were dimensionally challenged smiley

Neil Wyatt31/08/2017 19:42:59
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles
Posted by Robin Hewitt 1 on 31/08/2017 18:27:44:

I printed a Dremel attachment, not exactly fine pitch but does the job.

Makes you wonder how we managed back when printers were dimensionally challenged smiley

 

Good stuff. I remember seeing an article in ME about 3D printing some ten years ago including a little model ship that looked like it had been printed using a mastic gun...

This is from MEW just 5 years ago, an original RepRap:

temp 3d.jpg

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 31/08/2017 19:43:22

Robin31/08/2017 20:54:40
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678 forum posts

I'm using the UP! Plus 2, I liked the way they used folded steel for the frame and profile rail for the slides, it looked comfortably rigid.

I now have a hankering for a second nozzle so I can print a dissolvable support structure. I can program to stop at preset thicknesses to add a bit of non-stick, but what a palaver.

I don't think the resin zappers have quite got it together yet. OTOH, something that would print wax shapes for a bit of investment casting could be fun.

Nick Hulme02/09/2017 17:53:55
750 forum posts
37 photos
Posted by Robin Hewitt 1 on 31/08/2017 20:54:40:

I don't think the resin zappers have quite got it together yet. OTOH, something that would print wax shapes for a bit of investment casting could be fun.

Robin,

Your printer should work fine with Machinable Wax's wax filament, you will probably need to swap out the extruder spring for something a little softer to allow optimal grip without crushing the wax, or there's Kai Parthy's Moldlay which doesn't burn out completely clean as the Machinable Wax product does but should be fine for larger parts.

- Nick

Michael Gilligan09/09/2017 20:33:27
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

Neil,

The sectioning is a bit clumsy, I'm afraid [I had to do it with the hand microtome], but you might find these interesting:

printed_thread_full.jpeg

.

printed_thread_detail.jpeg

.

MichaelG.

Neil Wyatt09/09/2017 20:37:09
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

Thanks Michael,

Certainly interesting to see.

My guess is I printed that with 0.1mm layers as it's a 0.7mm pitch thread.

The words that come to minds are 'Nyquist Criterion'.

Neil

Bazyle09/09/2017 21:13:12
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6956 forum posts
229 photos

We had a nice demo at EDMES on Friday evening using the old type printer pictured above. Perfectly functional for a bunch of fixtures, parts of a router and spark eroder and a cotton bobbin box he made for brownie points, including hinged lid. Even though he had transported it in the car 50 miles for the talk it didn't need recalibratone etc to print a nice bracket including hole and hex recess for bolt head.

He was using Fusion, then Slic3r then something like paradon? (well I remember it begins with P) to move the data to the printer. haven't seen that last piece of s/w mentioned before.

Michael Gilligan09/09/2017 21:21:56
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

Neil,

One niggling little thought ... The standard pitch for T2 is 0.75mm not 0.7mm

MichaelG.

Simon036209/09/2017 22:20:13
279 forum posts
91 photos
Posted by Bazyle on 09/09/2017 21:13:12:

We had a nice demo at EDMES on Friday evening using the old type printer pictured above. Perfectly functional for a bunch of fixtures, parts of a router and spark eroder and a cotton bobbin box he made for brownie points, including hinged lid. Even though he had transported it in the car 50 miles for the talk it didn't need recalibratone etc to print a nice bracket including hole and hex recess for bolt head.

He was using Fusion, then Slic3r then something like paradon? (well I remember it begins with P) to move the data to the printer. haven't seen that last piece of s/w mentioned before.

Pronterface?

I use it to control my printer directly and to estimate print times.

Simon

jason udall09/09/2017 22:44:53
2032 forum posts
41 photos
The actual extrusion is not circular in cross section. .
The thickness is well controlled ( at least initially) but the width of the extrusion is somewhat controlled be the filament feed rate ( not confused with the nozzle movement rate in x,y,z)..thus you can extrude in one pass a ribbon 2-5 mm wide by say 0.1 mm thick..
The edges of the ribbon might (certainty ) not be square..but this geometry will depend on many things..surface tension , viscosity and the like , all dependent on extrusion temperature /material/infill among others. .a reasonable approximate would be semi circular of diameter equal to the layer height..
Some sagging occurs leaving the edge deformed from that simple shape. .effected by cooling profile. .


. Nozzle size has an effect on the minimum scale printed (outside radius) and wall thickness ( minimum wall thickness)

Edited By jason udall on 09/09/2017 22:48:52

Neil Wyatt10/09/2017 08:18:52
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 09/09/2017 21:21:56:

Neil,

One niggling little thought ... The standard pitch for T2 is 0.75mm not 0.7mm

MichaelG.

surprise

blush

Michael Gilligan10/09/2017 08:57:56
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

Sorry, Neil; but I thought it worth mentioning before you go into production.

The same thread pitch [3/4mm] is used on filters, of course; which might add some frisson to that ever-popular 'decimal vs fractional' debate.

MichaelG.

Michael Gilligan10/09/2017 09:04:50
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

Posted by jason udall on 09/09/2017 22:44:53:

... The edges of the ribbon might (certainty ) not be square...

... a reasonable approximate would be semi circular of diameter equal to the layer height..

.

Which is, hopefully, visible in my photos.

MichaelG.

Rod Ashton10/09/2017 10:22:01
344 forum posts
12 photos

What is the thread spec on a Dremel nose please?

JasonB10/09/2017 10:24:22
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25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

3/4" x 12 UNC

Rod Ashton10/09/2017 10:28:56
344 forum posts
12 photos

Thanks Jason!

Robin10/09/2017 10:51:02
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678 forum posts

Opinions on the Dremel nose thread vary. I have the Dremel 200 which I measured as M19x2.5

I printed the thread as a separate part then glued it in. Saved printing big, time consuming failures and allowed me to line the Dremel shaft lock button perfectly vertical.

I eventually printed it as M19.5x2.5 through a 16.5mm hole to get snug.

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