Dore Westbury Mk2 drive pulley repair

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Canobi,

Just checked my DW spindle and I find that any of my morse taper tooling which all measure around 2.5" long fit my spindle without any problems. I do wonder if your spindle nose may have been modified (shortened) at some time in the past. I machined my spindle when I built the machine to the D/W drawings to suit the Myford spindle thread. Mine measures including the shoulder with the spanner flats 1.5".

Phil

Hi folks

Ergh, gathering everything I need is taking ages on such a small budget, but I'm nearly there.

Bushings are in (got two sets just in case), as well as the circlip pliers. Just wating for the oil to arrive, and for me to get an apropriate piece of bar to use on them. Last months budget went on a desperately needed metal band saw, having been donated quite a bit of stock materials, it was starting to become like the saying "water water everywhere, but not a drop to drink" lol.

I made small progress with the lower pulley section, though I didn't need a bar, it was so thin on the one side I was able to prise is out. Judging by how stress resistant it was when bending it, I don't think it was an oilite. Since wear can hide and fill the gaps of an oilite, I snapped a piece off along the thickest area to see if there was any evidence of holes or pockets running through the fracture:

As can be seen, it appears to be solid so I'm guessing the other one will be too.

Regarding oil preload. I've seen people use hands and whatnot to press oil throughout a bushing, but was wondering, would using my vacuum chamber work?

I made one for moulding/casting resins and silicone but it occured to me that it might draw out the air and fill the bushings that way, I could warm them up a bit in the oil to aid the process and leave them to cool in the vacuum.

Finally gathered all the necessities and got my degassing chamber down from the loft, which I'll be using to prime the oilite bushings.

After having at it, I finally got the planetary section disassembled but may have hit a snag.

It might just be me but it kinda looks like the bushing butted up to a shoulder, can anyone confirm that?

If it is, any ideas on how to remove the bushing?

If I turn my press bar down to fit the bore from this side, it won't be wide enough to catch the bushing on it's way through. Annoyingly it fits just right if pushed in from the gear side.

Canobi,

From the data of my Mk2 DW the bore on the inner drive sleeve should be bored right through. So the bushes should not be up to a sholder. Is there just a spacer between the bushes?

Your main spindle is standard (I think). However the tang on a standard MT drill chuck does need chopping off as there is no slot for a drift to eject the chuck. MES did recommend making an ejection nut the fit the Myford chuck thread.

Cheers

John

Edited By elanman on 18/08/2017 21:48:32

Edited By elanman on 18/08/2017 21:50:36

Edited By elanman on 18/08/2017 21:51:27

Edited By elanman on 18/08/2017 22:05:39

Check out page #3 from the DW working instructions and sheet 3 from the drawings. Compare the measurements and you may be able to find out what's happening over there.

You can find the MK1 instructions and plans from Tony @lathes.co.uk or download them for free from the Dore Westbury yahoo group. Look at the file section for the MK1 manual and VM drawings.

It transpires I have a Mk1, apparently distinguishable by which side of the machine the quills fine feed is (mine is on the left, Mk2s are on the right).

The inner drive sleeve (thanks for dropping the correct name for it John) and small clusters still need a good clean , which I can do now they're appart, Ill probably get a better idea of what's what then.

I went ahead with the vacuum chamber to prime the oilite bushings, and it worked a treat

.

Brilliant job, Sir

Great to see the process in action !!

MichaelG.

I got the drive sleeve bushing out, but because of the shoulder, I used my lathe to thin the brass enough for me to pull it out with pliers:

Edited By Canobi on 27/08/2017 11:38:33

She's nearly there guys, I can almost smell the cutting oil...

The lower pulley section is back on the mill now and runs very smoothly

Needed to find a reamer I could use with the limited equipment I have, which held up precedings for a bit. Luckily I managed to score a precision 1" chucking reamer on ebay last week that had only been used once, so I was still nice and sharp and didn't mar the brass.

I'm now making a holder for the drive sleeve. Though not seen, it has a 12mm shank which will be held by a 2MT collet in the tailstock.

Not much left to do now...

Edited By Canobi on 13/09/2017 23:57:52

Edited By Canobi on 13/09/2017 23:59:21

hi all,

out of interest, removing oilite bushing in a blind hole or not......

just use a tap to put a thread in it.......then use a bolt to either pull with a slide hammer or tap (hammer) it out......

simples........clogs

To remove a bush from a blind hole: Make a short shaft, a good fit in the bush, fill the bush about half full of grease, put the shaft in the hole and push it down until it contacts the grease, now whack it hard with a big hammer. The bush should pop up. You may need more grease, and another hit or two with the hammer.

Ian S C

I have heard of oily rag being used also.