Soldering PCB

I've just about given up on non-temperature controlled irons now. For smaller stuff, I use a Weller solder station with a 45W iron - good for stuff from the tiniest up to 'medium sized' joints. For the larger stuff, I now use a Weller 100W temp controlled iron. Both irons work very well and much nicer to use than most non-controlled irons which usually get way too hot. I often find that adding a small amount of suitable extra flux to a joint will ease the soldering process, rather than relying totally on the cores in the solder wire.

I gave up on non temperature controlled irons a long time ago now. Currently I have a relatively cheap soldering station, from CPC, that has a digital display of bit temperature (nominal) and the set temperature. The set temp can be selected using push buttons so that the tip temperature correct for the type of solder that is being used, typically 60/40 tin lead temp is 310C and tin/copper lead free is 370C. The iron itself is 48W so heats up very quickly and holds a stable temperature over a wide range of job sizes. The complete system only cost around £40 max which is cheaper than some stand alone irons.

Martin

+1 for the temperature controlled irons (an old 60w station from Maplins, around £40). I start off with a low heat setting, and if I find I am struggling, I keep turning up the heat, a little at a time until the job heats up and the solder flows. First priority, make sure the work is clean and uncoated

Steve

Glad to report that the 12Watt iron has done the job. Unfortunately I don't have glassf iber pens etc, and can't get a rubber into the spaces left between the surface mounted components, so had to scratch the pads with a scalpel. Initially, the oscilloscope didn't work, but there was one 'dry' joint which I found by using a magnifying glass, re-solderd and now it works. I just need to find out how to use a scope to see what is happening on my BBC Microbit computer / rev counter application. Thanks for the help, over and out.
BobH

Hi

The price of the soldering station has gone up a little since I bought mine but it can be found here. Temperature sensor in heater tube and there are a range of tip sizes available for different jobs, usual disclaimers re CPC etc. but worth a mention as mine has done sterling service and is still going strong on all the original parts.

Martin

It isn't cheap, but having reviewed one, I would recommend the Antex TCS50W very highly.

www.antex.co.uk/soldering/precision-range-soldering-irons/tcs50w/

I am biased having had my own CS iron since about age 13

Neil

I seem to have come rather late to the party, but +1 on thermostatically controlled irons, +1 on having one of enough wattage.

Something I haven't seen mentioned is the importance of heating the joint, then feeding the solder into the joint. A lot of people tend to melt the solder onto the iron, then transfer it to the joint, by which time all the flux has burned off and does nothing. This was a constant problem when teaching soldering in schools.

George

I use a temperature controlled soldering station and the only problem I have with normal soldering is tinning a new iron-plated bit. Solder just doesn't want to adhere - just balls up. And you sure can't solder successfully until you get past that (perhaps the OP's problem?).

Best way I've found so far is to get a tin of flux and some bar solder, turn the temperature up, stick the bit in the flux then plunge it into the solder bar and hold it there a while. That'll usually do it.

From a soldering company engineer, "You don't need iron-plated bits. The plating is to stop erosion of the copper, but using Multicore 'Savbit' or equivalent means the bits don't erode in the first place"

Geoff

Sorry Geoff, unfortunately that is not true, unplated bits will still erode, just not as much.

A really good iron this.

I too have had a controlled-temperature iron since I was a pimply-faced youth (PFY).

You get what you pay for here. Antex and Weller have produced good stuff since I was a PFY also.

Is PFY another candidate for the list?

Looking at the links where is the damp sponge for cleaning the tip. It's essential and why weller stations always have them. Maybe the DuraTool has one.

I've worked at several places where technicians are absent or in short supply and have been known to spend a whole day soldering up a board. There are 2 points. Tip goes on joint followed by solder to touch both. The other point is lead free. It needs much higher tip temperature and as a result a lot more speed but don't use one that's hotter than you can cope with. It takes longer to wet out the joint as the temperature goes down. Too much solder can have the same effect as well. It just sits there and doesn't flow. Various gauge solder is available to help with that for surface mount especially. Keep the solder in a poly bag when not in use 'cause it's useless once it gets dirty. My reels have been about for years as I don't solder very often and it's still fine. I get it from RS.

There are different types of flux in multicore as well. I worked at one place that needed a decent flux but couldn't clean it off after soldering. They used a multicore that was guaranteed not to be corrosive providing it wasn't over heated. A weller number 6 was the correct tip to use from memory. Not hot enough for lead free.

John

-

John

The Duratool unit certainly does have a tip cleaning sponge and it is located in a pull out drawer under the iron stand. Having the built-in stand means you don't have find somewhere to park a hot iron and the sponge is in a convenient position to clean the tip when starting a job.

I bought it after my Weller unit failed and spares were prohibitively expensive for what was up to then a very reliable and well used old iron, the complete Duratool system was cheaper than the parts I needed to repair the Weller. I used number 7 bits on the Weller for most work using 60/40 solder. The big advantage of the Duratool unit is that changing temperature to suit different solders is done by just pressing a button to select the required setting. The 48W rating gives a good reserve of power/heat for the larger tasks.

Again usual disclaimers regarding products or suppliers.

Martin

My iron at work was often on all day and also needed cleaning periodically when soldering to get shut of the black stuff or even to prevent it appearing.

I tried out one cheaper variable temperature iron off RS at work when my Weller went. It was fine but the tips didn't last very long at all. They don't sell these any more. I suspect that's one area Weller score on for some reason. The larger Weller tips also wet out well. Some of the cheaper stuff doesn't. I'd guess you would have noticed this if the Duratool one had a problem? A wet tip is handy at times.

No problems with CPC. I've bought several things off them over many years. Farnell too but I generally use RS.

I've been wondering about what to do with my Weller. It needs a new lead to the iron. I could make one up but as you mentioned they are getting expensive. Personally I would say 48w is about right providing there is some sort of temperature control - even higher wouldn't hurt. The power is there to maintain the temperature.

When I was a lad and had an Antex I didn't realise I also needed the sponge. I'd guess what happens is that the flux corrodes the coating so if it isn't cleaned off tips don't last and turn into a mess. I suspect the shape of Weller tips helps. Good heat transfer to the tip with little overheating further up it. They have a larger major diameter than any other I am aware of and just taper to the end.

John

-

I suspect I will buy one of these

**LINK**

I like the look of the tips. Plus the sponge is more or less where it usually is for me. Why oh why put the iron holder on the left but guess I can cope with that.

I'll also buy a spare element just in case they disappear and spare sponges to save the the bother.

Thanks Mark. I wonder if these are Weller by another name. They look to use the same principle on the irons for changing bits.

John

-

John

The bits are totally different to the Weller ones I used to have but they do wet well. I bought some spare items as a precaution as you never know how long companies like CPC will stock items for. These spares include a heater element with sensor built in, a range of bits and even a spare iron just in case. So far this unit has proved very reliable and does what it is supposed to with ease. Even without the spares should it fail then £40 is not a great outlay but hope I have future proofed the system to some extent. The bit I use frequently has shown no sign of wear/erosion so hopeful re it's longevity but with tips at less than £1-50p a pop not a problem.

Martin

If I forget to tin my soldering iron tips after use I have a small tin of hard paste-like stuff called Tip Tinner / Cleaner from RS Components that removes the oxide and leaves a really shiny, tinned tip, just wipe the hot tip into the paste. It's quite an old product, from the 90's with original RS stock number of 561-533, now discontinued, but RS offer an alternative.

561-533 Multicore Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner. (Discontinued).

507-8698 Multicore Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner. (Out of Stock, on back order?).

Ed.

Howie, yes I know. Weller TCP iron bits are hollow and burn through, but are easy to change 'on the go'. They did last a lot longer with Savbit though. (Usual disclaimer) Now I turn my own Antex bits, it's no longer a problem, they aren't iron-plated anyway, and I just file them flat again every now & then.

BTW, Antex have just introduced an adjustable temperature iron with all the electronics on board. Up and down buttons and an LCD panel in the handle make it very useful.

Geoff

That's the one I linked to

The TCS 50W iron seems to be available for £40 from CPC at the moment. That's with order code SD0205405. Bizarrrely, if you search for "TCS 50W" on the CPC site you end up with order code SD02054 - same product as far as I can see but priced at £58 - go figure....

Seems like a good price.