Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

If your stock is 300 long x 25mm dia and you have it in a 4 “ chuck there would be around 200 - 250 mm stick out which would be ok for a centre drill . The difficulty with centre drilling could be a dodgy drill or the the piece you are trying to drill - what material is it ? Some types of steel can be problematic or the pice could be hardened so you need to check that as well . Running a drill too slow never hurt anything , it will just take longer to get there !

P.S Make sure you have the lathe running in the right direction also ! You won’t be the first or last person to have it running in reverse !

Edited By XD 351 on 19/02/2019 12:45:30

On my lathe the dro for the cross slide is set to show the diameter of the workpiece and i I don’t pay any attention to the negative or positive on it or on the carriage dro or for the dro on my mill either .

Your friend couldn't be in a better spot for the first picture 

Edited By XD 351 on 15/02/2019 08:38:10

You can make a simple unit with an old windscreen wiper motor as they usually have the intermittent wipe set up as an internal switch . you simply hook into that circuit and use a switch that is activated by the ram of your shaper . the older type windscreen wiper motors have an internal circuit that makes the motor do one revolution once activated but the newer units are controlled by the cars computer .

Feed rate is not adjustable though so you are stuck with what you set it up with in regards to drive ratios etc so if you set it up for 0.020 cross feed using drive ratios that is what you are stuck with as each time the motor is triggered it does one turn .

Next option is use an arduino to send pulses to a stepper driver but you will need to learn how to code and understand how steppers work - not hard but i cant judge your electronics ability . what you need is very similar to the code for the stepper drive rotary table but modify the code to suit , there is an equation in there that tells the micro how many pulses to output after reading the input from the keypad . i think your biggest problem is that you are searching for CNC equipment or the like to do this but it can be done much more simply .

There are many youtube videos on using stepper motors for various things so maybe you can gain some info from them and it doesn't matter how small the motor is in the video as the only thing that changes is the size of the motor and the driver needed to drive it as long as the driver can handle the logic level of the arduino which depending on which board you use will be either 5 volts or 3.3 volts .

looks like a few post were made while i was writing this , Joseph Noci is the man you need to talk to !

Edited By XD 351 on 15/02/2019 08:30:50

I better not reply i will get in trouble 😇

Edited By XD 351 on 12/02/2019 03:22:27

Twitter would be my first choice followed by mugbook then after that anything that remotely resembles them !

Mankind will be exterminated by its own inventions ..

One fault with the facial recognition is if the head is covered by something like a mask or helmet it doesn’t work !

One lesson i learned the hard way was to be mindful of the fact a cheap printer will have a cheap build surface that more than likely won’t be flat . This causes some headaches when you start using the whole build plate and i had a lot of trouble getting descent bed adhesion even with a raft, i changed over to pyrex for a build plate but discovered this was also warped . I have some new pieces coming from a different supplier and i hope they are at least reasonably flat , i havent measured how out of kilter the other pieces of glass are other than lay a straight edge over them and on one side it became a see saw and the other side had a substantial gap in the middle - maybe half a mm or so . The mk 2 heat bed i fitted is way better than that but it if i lay a straight edge across it at 90 deg to the sides it has at a guess a 5 thou dip in the middle that decreases as it heats up to near perfect at 70 degrees but laythe straight edge diagonally it is much worse so maybe some of the corners have dog eared ,might take it down the workshop and give it a rub on the surface plate with some blue and see how f i can sort that out as well.

I bought a QCTP kit that came with a knurling tool in one end a tool holder ,and when i saw this i thought thats handy ! A while later i decided to try this knurling / toolholder combo and found one of the rollers had a lot of runout - at a guess I would say ten thou or more so it was shelved . I later bought the same kit for another lathe and i think they are ok but i may salvage the good rollers and try to get a working unit . I also have two scissor type units - one the same as pictured above and a bigger unit that does up to 2 inch dia , both work ok although the little one does have a lot of play in the arms so one day when i have nothing better to do i might sort it out .

You should be able to work out an approximate comp ratio from your drawings .

Are you doing this with a milling machine or a lathe ? Maybe a photo of your set up will give us some clues as to what is going awry .

I will assume that the horizontal tool is the HSS unit and the angled tool is the carbide insert type they have listed ?

I have watched both paul and lars and learnt a lot from them but paul had only learned the basics of fusion himself not long before making the video series( also made a good arduino series as well ) and as much as i love watching lars he does get a little excited and can drift off topic a little . Someone mentioned the youtube videos made by Brad Tallis from Autodesk on another forum i frequent and i found his tutorials a little easier to understand .

Before doing anything I would check to see if the pin is actually hardened by giving the end a rub with a file . You may be lucky and find it is a cheese grade pin ! If it is hardened then cut it out with a carbide end Mill .

I get these sort of videos from a channel I subscribe to and there are some gems amongst them .

**LINK**

Has anyone tried using the tangential tool with a brazed carbide on a square tool shank ? I have a couple of these tool holders from eccentric but rarely use them as I use carbide insert tooling for the most part but have always wondered if a chunk of carbide brazed onto the end of a piece of square stock then ground the same as the tool steel bit would work .

It really comes down to three factors :

Price.

The space you have to store it .

The maximum capacity you will or may need .

I have a similar unit that is in Neil’s second link and there are probably millions of these units out there. I did some mods like the hydraulic ram to control the feed and added roller bearings to the top wheel that the blade runs around but other than that I have had 20yrs of loyal service from my saw and I have given it a flogging over the years !

One thing to also look at is the blades as some are just rubbish so make sure what ever saw you buy that you can get decent blades for . I use bimetal blades from a local manufacturer that I have found over the years they make blades that outlast the starrett units sold by the place I bought the saw from by about five to one and they are the same price !

Has anyone made a unit from a automotive aircon compressor and an electric motor ? I know here in Australia you could buy a compressor unit to pump up the tyres of a 4WD. It consisted of a small two stroke motor and a modified aircon pump off a car - the modifications were mainly for lubrication of the pump . If run from an electric motor it would be almost silent .

Just a thought .

Ian.

And if you have trouble sleeping or want to know what the Australian outback looks like and like trains this mind numbing offering is what you need - this is possibly the abridged version and the Indian pacific offering is even longer as it is a three day trip ! Enjoy !

**LINK**

Edited By XD 351 on 26/01/2019 06:07:45