Member postings for peak4

I think there was more then two when I looked, but was slow to pay for a pair, as I got distracted adding other items to my basket.

I should know better by now, but I've just gone back to the original link out of curiosity.
It now shows more re-listed items, and claims "more than 10" available.

Bill.

Edited By peak4 on 08/03/2023 15:45:28

Ah, so it was you.
I added two to my basket, went to pay, and they had both gone.

There are some more on eBay, but longer ones and currently £10 per bag with no bids yet.

Bill

Here's one I've not had before.
I ordered a pair of camera batteries of ebay late on Sunday evening (5th March), for my recently delivered second hand Olympus E-M1x

Only one battery in stock, so I sent a message asking if there were any more on the way to the vendor, and received an almost immediate personal reply saying there was now another listed.

First one arrived this morning (7th) at about 08.30 "serviced by Amazon Logistics" Pretty good service really

The second arrived this evening (again the 7th) at about 22.00, along with the message that it has just been delivered tomorrow on Wed the 8th; even more impressed with the time travel.

Bill

I've tried e-mailing him as well, before the site was last updated, as I have some scans for him; I never did get a reply.

Bill

As per Hopper's comment, you might need to remove the clock's fingers.
Re. the half moon cutout, as you rotate the bezel around the body of the clock, have a look into that cutout.
You might find that in one, or more, positions, it exposes a screw head.
My guess is that there are 3 hidden screws, which you might be able to loosen, not remove, as you rotate the bezel through 360°, and that the 1mm lift is actually a round wobble washer.

Bill

Also on Facebook Marketplace
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/581167547382965/

Bill

Sorry I forgot to put up these links yesterday; just adding in case you've not seen them, though unfortunately don't mention lubrication.
I'd looked up your earlier photos on the forum.
MAS130
https://ia601004.us.archive.org/34/items/lathe-manuals/AVM%20MAS130.pdf

MAS165
https://ia601004.us.archive.org/34/items/lathe-manuals/AVM%20MAS%20165S.pdf

Was your lathe actually made in Italy, or is it a re-badging exercise , in the same way that Warco import far eastern lathes?

If that is the case, you might well find that there is a US Grizzly equivalent, albeit maybe an imperial version

Bill

I have one almost exactly the same and find it does every (reasonable) thing I've asked of it.
Mine also has the swivelling universal table, so make sure you don't need that facility before committing.

It might well be three phase, so do you have a suitable supply?
If it is the same as mine, the main 1HP motor is dual voltage, so easy enough to run off a inverter/VFD, but the table feed motor is 415v only.
I replaced it with a single phase motor, but it's too big and heavy, and does cause a bit of tilt on the table.
I must get around to finding the star point of the old motor, so I can swap it back and run it off a second inverter.
In the short term I help balance it with a universal dividing head bolted to the left hand end, which is useful anyway as it takes a Myford chuck.

The need for two inverters wouldn't be a problem, if I'd gone down the route of a Transwave or similar setup.

Bill

I really wouldn't worry too much, and certainly wouldn't try and import something from the UK

Re. Warco oil viscosity, true they don't mention it in their adverts, or machine manuals, but the equivalent US Grizzly manual for the same lathe states the following;

Headstock Fluid Type.........ISO 32 (eg. Grizzly T23963, Mobil DTE Light)
Gearbox Fluid Type........... ISO 68 (eg. Grizzly T23962, Mobil Vactra 2)
Apron Fluid Type............... ISO 68 (eg. Grizzly T23962, Mobil Vactra 2)

So I'd suggest that is probably the spec of the Warco oil(s)

I use a locally supplied 32 & 68 long life hydraulic oil(s), and I'm sure you should be able to pick up a cheap local equivalent.
Re toxicity, I wouldn't worry too much so long as you use normal workshop precautions, and don't use it as as a salad dressing in place of olive oil.

Some oils seems to be specified as "slideway" as they have additives to make sure they adhere to the machine slides, and don't get washed off with an aggressive coolant, but I've never found a major issue with home use, as I'm not bothered about machine down time for re-lubrication.
Before I picked up some specific slideway oil, I just used mineral based chainsaw oil from the local agricultural shop, but normal 68 hydraulic will work fine.

edit, Nigel and I were typing at the same time.
Yes 160 gear oils are likely far too thick for most small lathe applications.
I use it in the electric winch gearbox on the Landrover, but that only turns very slowly.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 02/03/2023 15:38:37

Certainly not Petroleum grease/jelly.
The likelihood is that most or all of your machine will use oil as a lubricant, as others have said above, but not sure what's available where you live.
I would think that any agricultural or mechanical plant supplier would be able to sell you some basic long life hydraulic oil; my own Warco Gearhead 1330 lathe uses a universal 68 oil for gearbox, headstock and slides, whereas my Myford uses a 32 for most places.
If there is an exposed gear train to the left of the headstock, whilst grease might seem intuitive, I've found that motorcycle aerosol chain lube works well; the oily, rather than the waxy type. The solvent evaporates off leaving a clingy lubricant which doesn't fly off and quietens the gear train considerably; I would only use it if there is a decent dust proof cover, as it could quickly turn to grinding paste.

Whilst looking into your own machine yesterday, I came across this website, which will give you a good idea, and I'm sure you will be able to find local equivalents by other oil suppliers where you live
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-businesses/industrial/lubricants/equipments/lathes_a1t41000004oq7veac

Bill

The line drawing on P46 of this old catalogue shows it quite well
https://archive.org/details/moore-and-wright-catalogue-no-61-1961/page/46/mode/2up

Bill

Robert, where in the world are you, presumably not UK if you loaded the album in the evening in your time zone.

You're showing a photo of a Dedlock 200 arbor; doesn't that fit your cutter?

**LINK**

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 01/03/2023 17:32:39

If you're sure the cutter is a genuine Clarkson, how about this on eBay?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314221387792

The same seller has at least two, (plus one with a cutter, which could be 150 or 200)

See also for a cheaper one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285043042653

Sheffield Tooling Co suggests that the cutter is a Dedlock 200 depending on the size
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334633338233

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 01/03/2023 13:14:27

Edited By peak4 on 01/03/2023 13:20:59

A quick internet peruse could it be a double start 12 tpi in 1" size
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/cutting-tools/hss-ripper-regular-series/clarkson-dedlock-150-rippa-1-1-2inch-l-ser/p/MGZ0611688M

This ad says 1" BSW, but at first glance it seems finer, so might confirm the above
https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/clarkson-32473-dedlock-200-chuck-50int-1b-p57837

These folk may be able to assist with the official spec.
https://www.clarkson-tool-cutter-grinders.com/products/clarkson/accessories/

Bill

Yes, that sharpening pattern/profile seems to be known as "Pilot point" these days.

Previously I'd known it as "Bullet Point", a term which now seems to normally reference a particular profile of carbide insert masonry drills.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Decker-Precision-Masonry-Germany/dp/B07JN4SVTM/ref=asc_df_B07JN4SVTM

I thought I was imagining/mis-remembering things, but I've just been out to the workshop and found one very shiny metal drilling bit stamped up as "8.2mm Bullet HSS West Germany"; I've had it for many years.

I've also just spotted an advert from a firm I'd never heard of, selling this profile at a much lower price, though I've no idea what quality they might be.
https://www.in-excess.com/products/bbw-germany-hss-tin-pilot-point-metal-drill-bit-11mm

Edit; Just found these on eBay advertised as BBW but stamped Bullet as per my old one in the workshop
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223869029049

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 28/02/2023 19:33:07

I don't have a Boxford, but see P2 of this pdf
https://ia601004.us.archive.org/34/items/lathe-manuals/Boxford%20spécification.pdf

Also P2 of this one
https://ia601004.us.archive.org/34/items/lathe-manuals/boxford%20MkII%20plaquette.pdf

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 27/02/2023 21:08:44

Baerfix are certainly cheaper, though I've never used them myself, but a downside is the 9.3mm drill for an M6 thread.
https://uni-thread.com/tr_baerfix_metric_kits_detail.php?01581-6

Bill

I'm not too sure about the comparison site, but I've been using the predecessor to this Brother one for a while now.
https://www.brother.co.uk/printers/inkjet-printers/mfc-j6540dwe

It worked reliably so far, A4 paper drawer, A3 single sheet feed, A3 scanner and a document feeder scanner.

Bill

There appears to be a wheel on eBay, which you've probably seen, but it's in Germany
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384071838430

If you've another bike on the road and fancy a ride out, I should be able to supply both M6 & ¼" spotting drills up North in Buxton; beverages can be supplied.

I'd have to check, but I think I also have an M8 coarse Helicoil kit as well, if the resultant hole is too big to tap conventionally

Bill

You seem to have two good holes now, so how about using the retaining ring, or another specially made one, to act as a drill guide for the offset hole.
Obviously remove the dodgy Helicoil, and re-drill the hole, but using a spot drill and pecking at it.
Spot drills are far more rigid than jobbers, with very short flutes, so lend themselves to being guided by a close fitting bush. I some ways, provided there is an existing hole, the short flutes make them easier to steer, and more rigid, than a 2/3 flute slot end mill.
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/cutting-tools/spot-drills/c/39151101
You might need ¼" spot drill, rather than 6mm to start with.

An M7 Helicoil uses a 7.2mm tapping drill, so maybe you could then use either a stepped 6/7mm stud, or an M7 bolt.

M8 uses 8.2 or 8.3mm drill, so there might still be enough meat in the boss to hold a larger stepped stud.
Some drill sizes HERE
https://www.thorintl.com/Drill-Sizes-HeliCoils-Metric.shtml

As above, there are other alternative inserts to Helicoils

Good luck
Bill
LeMans Mk3