Member postings for Phil P

I will second that, both my grinders are mounted on wood boards that have rubber door stops as feet.

The grinders live "under" the bench for 99% of their lives, the other advantage is you can take them outside and make all the mess there instead of all over the bench.

Phil

I am sure Jason B will be along soon to show how he does it very effectively.

I believe he uses an electric engraving tool.

Phil

I am guessing it is for the end of the swinging arm pivot bolt ?

When I restored a 1972 Honda XL250 recently, I managed to find a supplier of genuine new old stock parts that had an original one on the shelf. Have you tried this route yet.

It may be that other makes or models used the same size as well.

Phil

I generally use Garryflex blocks for first stage cleaning, you can work down through the grit sizes, and then move on to polishing products if you want to make it shiny after removing any surface marks.

http://www.polishingjewellery.co.uk/acatalog/Sanding-Blocks_Garyflex.html

Phil

I have a few assorted BA bolts of this type myself.

They came from my late fathers workshop, he was in the RAF in the 1950's.

That is where they probably originated.

Phil

I have tried the conventional types of fly cutter as described above, but the noise in the drive train due to the intermittent cut was unbearable. I have had much more success when the fly cutter is heavier.

I tend to make mine out of a large steel disc, and insert a round HSS or carbide tipped tool bit through a hole in the face near the outer edge, I secure it with a couple of grub screws.

The whole cutter acts as a flywheel, and damps out the intermittent cuts very nicely.

Phil

Why not use a central heating/hot water diverter valve, they are a 90° motorised unit.

Phil

Peter

I have sent you a PM

Phil

I have exactly the same lathe, and to be honest it does not get used every day, but there are some jobs where I would not be without it.

For instance, here is a photo of a musical box worm wheel being cut using the Boley as a tiny dividing head on the milling machine.

Phil

I mix mine in a plastic 35mm film container, then snap the sealed lid on when finished.

It eventually does dry out but is easily re-mixed with more water.

Phil

Have sent you a PM re parts

Phil

I have the L5A with a gearbox, but as far as I know the three speed translation box works on the same principle.

There should be two shafts running along the bed just behind the apron the upper one is the normal leadscrew, and the lower one is a plain keyed shaft which provides the fine feed.

Are you using the correct lever to engage the feed ?
There is one lever on the front of the apron for screwcutting and one underneath for fine feed.

More info here;- http://www.lathes.co.uk/harrison/page4.html

Phil

No its definitely not a drill sharpener, the auctioneers dont know what it is and that is their best guess.

The previous answers are correct, it is for sharpening single lip engraving cutters with the correct angle and relief.
This is the cutter holder details.

I have a David Dowling one which is very similar in principle to the Taylor Hobson, but unless you are grinding engraving cutters it is of limited use, it is possible with a fair bit of work to modify it into a general cutter grinder of sorts.

Phil

I have one of those laser edge finders, and am still not convinced as to how accurate it is.

I also have a Haimer 3D taster which is absolutely superb but too bulky and awkward to use on a regular basis.

And I am always worrying that I might drop it or something.

On my Alexander Miller and the Boley (BCA) jig borer I use these most of the time.

The one on the right is my 'everyday' edge finder and is no more than a 1/2" OD ball race loctited to the end of the collet adapter for the Boley, the one I use on the Alexander is even simpler and is just a plain bar with a bearing on the end which is then held in the machine collet.

In use you simply run the job gently up to the bearing with the spindle running, and when the outer race stops spinning you know you have just touched the job with it. Then use the DRO in the usual way taking into account the 1/4" radius of the bearing.

It is such a simple tool to make and use, to the point I rarely need anything else for most jobs these days.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 27/02/2015 14:52:26

Edited By Phil P on 27/02/2015 14:57:35

Have you thought about generating a sphere using this method.

http://www.ctemag.com/aa_pages/2013/130310-ShopOps.html

http://www.ctemag.com/aa_pages/2013/130310-ShopOps.html

Phil

clickable link added.

Edited By John Stevenson on 18/02/2015 00:40:01

This is what it looks like on the Myford doing a spot of crank journal grinding for a model petrol engine crank made from solid bar.

Phil

I had similar issues when I rebuilt my Union grinder, another problem is the motor speed is not high enough for the smaller cup wheels. I decided to do my own thing and make a complete new variable speed head for mine.

The head also fits straight on to the Myford cross slide for odd cylindrical grinding jobs.

I also rigged up a head for doing four facet drill grinding, see photo's in album.

Phil

I have one of these centres and it failed in exactly the same way just like the one in the photo.

I made a new silver steel revolving part for it, but to be honest I have never got on with it since and tend to use my old J&S or Rohm ones.

My copy of the book arrived as planned, but I did not get to open the packet.

It has been stashed away and will be my Xmas present from the dog believe it or not !!

Phil

I thought that method was fairly common, that is what I have always done anyway.

Phil