Member postings for Jeff Dayman

They are ramping it up it seems. We had 14 attempts yesterday, their bot is getting more sophisticated. Before we got chinese language message starting with "ni hao" right away, now we are getting 10 sec of English before the chinese language starts. Always a different number used, none seem to be traceable, none take a callback, and all can be blocked. Blocking doesn't help though because they are using a new number every time. This must add up to millions of numbers, which makes me wonder if the phone company isn't selling the scammers a deal on one time use numbers or some other gag. The phone company could stop all these crap calls if they wanted to. I'd love an option from the phone provider for no phone calls from specified particular countries to my cell or landline.

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 21/12/2022 22:29:05

Hi David, no idea what needs to be repaired, but if it is a simplish sort of part, is fabbing/machining a new one from solid CI stock like Durabar or Meehanite a possibility? Obviously this won't be an option if it's something big or complex but worth a thought of it's smaller and not too involved. Just a thought.

Looking great Colin! Nicely done.

In ME 4702 21 oct-2 nov pgs 569-571 there are drawings for the Ballaarat copper boiler. In my copy, all the object lines in the views are coloured light grey, along with the crosshatch. This essentially makes the object in the views invisible and the drawings are completely useless. The dimension lines are black as expected.

ME editors - are you aware of this error in some or all copies? will you be publishing usable drawings in future?

There are LOTS of unknowns here, so hard to say. Who knows what grade of solder Sunbeam used, or if the tin plate is just steel and tin plating or some combination of plating and galvanizing. I have seen many combinations. I have done some electrolysis on old engine parts (iron and steel only) using a washing soda / water solution and never damaged anything but I would recommend a test with a scrap holed or rusted out Sunbeam tank if you can find one. You could test some ordinary tinplate or galvanised steel and a make a soldered joint to test. One recommendation - you would be wise to watch it like a hawk initially, so if anything goes wrong you can stop it as soon as possible.

I have noticed that on hollow castings the internal passages and cavities take the longest to get clean of rust, and constant re-positioning and renewal of the sacrificial iron plate, bar or strip inside the cavities is often needed to keep the reaction going. Star shaped plastic plates fitted onto bar are a good way to keep the bar from making short circuits to the cavities.

These items are called "external shaft retainer clips / washers / rings" - just mentioning it for your part search.

+1 on cutting the old one with a Dremel grinding wheel or similar. If you try pick or lever tools usually so much damage is done to the adjacent parts or the shaft that even with a new ring the repair isn't good. Cutting gets them off with no trauma to adjacent bits.

A link to a major US based suppliers' range for info only is below.

https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-retainers/retaining-ring-type~external/push-on-external-retaining-rings-6/

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 17/11/2022 23:59:53

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 18/11/2022 00:00:13

Hi Gray! I think the issue is where the sunlight's energy is absorbed on the bottle rather than where it shines. If there is a cool draught from the window cooling the bottle on that side, condensing will happen there. If there is a label or surface topography on the bottle on the side of the bottle away from the window, that is likely where the majority of the sunlight's energy will be absorbed, warming that side. Just my thoughts.

Noel, not meaning to be argumentative, but there are some types of rubber that do just fine on metal cutting bandsaws. Your blanket statement about wood machines' rubber coated wheels is not valid in ALL cases. My own bandsaw and a friend's, both converted wood cutting machines, had 1/8" thick neoprene tires fitted in the late 1980's and both are still in excellent condition after miles and miles of cut in steel, alum, brass, bronze etc. Both machines are operated at 150 feet / minute, the blade speed was reduced from 400-600 feet / min when they were used for wood cutting.

Of course it's possible that some makes of saws may have different types of rubber, maybe designed to run at higher speeds at lower blade tension, or have different friction characteristics to drive the saw blade, etc. Many variables, so it is hard to say if one or the other will work or not in ALL cases for metal cutting, without testing. I can recommend neoprene sheet for re-lining tires if problems developed with a particular saw or its' rubber compound.

The Gits Company is still in business in Iowa USA. A link to them is below. They may be able to give you a contact for a UK based distributor, or sell you a few pieces of a current production oiler (probably not BA or BSF threads) that could be adapted. A simple turned brass adapter with whatever thread is needed at one end, and a suitable socket for a current production oiler to be presed in or Loctited in would be easy to do. I'd say that would be a better use of your time chasing BA or other threads on oilers that may not have been made for decades or at least really hard to find. It is after all just an oiler. If the replacements for an old machine are not a 100 % match, who really cares?

https://www.gitsmfg.com/

On several Gordon Smith valves I have made, I left the ball free to rotate, and did not burnish or lap the seats. I did make the seats with the best finished cuts I could manage, and bought stainless balls with best surface finish and roundness that I could afford. Never a minute's trouble with the valves I have made. Good luck with yours,

For basic electronics and circuits, there are a series of little handbooks available by Forrest Mims III from the USA. Radio Shack stores in USA and Canada sold these books from the late 1960's to the early 1990's. If you google Mr Mims' name you can find many of the books as PDF downloads. Worth a read, and lots of very basic circuits are included for learning. Just food for thought.

I worked early in my career at a huge US controls firm's Canadian branch plant, early 1980's. There was a department there that engraved then paint-wiped all manner of panels and tags. They made such engraving and paint wiped plates for industrial controls, valve products of all kinds, and military cockpit panels. One day I was in the department they were making a small replacement instrument panel section for the CF-100 aircraft. There were still some in service at that time with the RCAF and I was told this particular panel got abraded by a hose or pilot clothing over time, and periodically needed replacing.

Anyway, they used a manual pantograph type engraver with V shaped D bit engraving bits. There were storage cabinets with dozens of sets of guide lettering typeface blocks of different fonts and sizes. The main technician for the department was a lady called Doris, who had been doing the job for over 30 years at the time. She was very fast on all aspects of the work, and I expect she could give a CNC engraver a run for its' money in a panel making race if she were alive and at her equipment today (but sadly both she and the equipment are long gone). The other member of the department was a gent Gordon who helped with the typeface setup, proofreading the typeface before engraving, and doing the mountain of QC paperwork for the military related work.

I got to know this department when they requested some specially ground engraving points to be designed and made. I got the assignment to design the changes on the points, make the CAD and drawings for them, and coordinate their manufacture with the toolroom. When completed I walked the points over to the department and watched as Doris tested one. It worked as hoped, and I enjoyed coffee with she and Gordon and had a great chat about panel making. One important secret they let me in on was that they used Ronson lighter fluid on a lint free rag to get a crisp clean one pass paint wipe-up. Good fun.

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 05/11/2022 23:48:31

Chainsaw, used carefully. a smaller one will be safer than say a 20" one for this job.

"What next?"

Telepathy / voodoo (now taking cover)

FYI I and the folks I worked for stopped using fax about 2008 - but many doctors and dentists here still want stuff sent that way.

Mr Hayward - FYI this is a 4 year old thread.

The engine's looking really good Brian! keep going with the last bits. Did you use sealant under the cylinder or did you machine a bit out for a gasket?

Why, it's to annoy forum readers with pointless threads that don't name trade bad practice offenders, Tim.

A further request re forum software- add an "ignore thread" function similar to the "ignore member" function. There are a few threads that pop up in my "latest posts" list that I find really annoying. It would be great to simply not see anything from those threads by selecting "ignore thread".

Before any time and money are spent on the covers you mention, may I suggest a thorough check of the wiring inside the lamp? I have seen many electrical devices from the 1950's to the 1970's with cracked, fossilized, or softened insulation on the wires, and disintegrating switches and plugs. This is of course very dangerous if the conductors should become exposed and contact the user or the metal frame. Just urging caution with old electrical stuff. Sorry I have no idea where you could get covers other than to maybe have someone measure the existing ones (or measure where they fitted if they are missing) then model them in CAD and 3D print them in PETG or ABS.

In North America this style of threaded hook was used for rigging residential TV aerials and their tripod towers just FYI, 1950's to 1970's era, before cable TV, and later, Blockbuster, satellite TV, Netflix etc. ate over-the-air TV's lunch.