Member postings for AJAX

Does it matter if the pulley is aluminium rather than steel? Just curious to know. If I were in this situation, I'd just bodge a temporary one from anything I had to hand, then make a better one.

A-section belt? Bore size? Do you have a lathe?

Edited By AJAX on 05/09/2023 23:06:44

Don't pay that much for a pulley. It could be more than you paid for the machine!

Tell me what pulley you need and I'll take a look to see if I have a spare. The price will be reasonable.

I bolted mine down to two wooden "skids". That way I can slide a pallet truck under and scoot it around to wherever I need, singlehandedly. Depending on your route this may work for you.

Looks like 40int

I have the same milling machine, with a vertical head. You can run the coolant pump from a single phase supply with the addition of a capacitor. I ripped out the electrics from around the back of the machine, fitted an electrical enclosure, and installed a VFD. This is the cheapest and most flexible option.

Have you checked whether there is another grub screw hidden under the first one you already removed?

I have a couple of pullers similar to the ones shown above and they work well with an impact driver.

That advert is strange. Many photos, but none of the data plate. Maybe it is 440V only.

I have a collection of used vee pulleys, some of which may be suitable. What bore size, diameter and belt section type do you need?

Brian

Edited By AJAX on 17/04/2023 13:29:42

That part circled in red (your photo) can be removed and machined as you need. In my case I milled it to fit a slot in a compound slide.

I have a Tech / Techtop motor with similar wires (which I didn't use). I'm reasonably confident the user manual stated they were thermistor connections. A well known supplier of Techtop motors lists "Protective thermistors type PTC (1 per phase)" as a feature. I hope that helps.

I plan to convert my Harrison M300 to run from a single to 3-phase VFD drive.

WEG CFW300 IP20 2.2kW 230V 1ph to 3ph AC Inverter Drive, DBr, Unfiltered
CFW300B10P0B2DB20 (13059419)

I have used WEG inverters in several other machines and found the wiring to be very straightforward (start, stop, e-stop, direction and speed control) but the M300 presents a particular challenge and I am interested to know how others have used the apron spindle control lever.

The spindle lever mechanically latches in one of three positions to select forward / stop / reverse. The lever rotates a cam that acts on two micro-switches. Effectively, this whole system acts as a latching switch and not the more appropriate momentary action switch used with most VFD setups. Consider what would happen if the spindle was running and an e-stop was pressed and then cleared. The spindle would start automatically.

I have considered using a PLC or timer relay(s) to convert the switch logic levels to timed pulses, thus simulating the effect of a start / stop push button. However, I wonder if there is a simpler solution that I am ignoring?

Yes, you are quite right. I have rewired the connection box (some of the wiring was "shocking" ) after performing an insulation resistance test and checking each of the windings. Should be good to go next week.

Edited By AJAX on 27/10/2022 13:35:42

I doubt I will ever approach 40% FL. As previously mentioned, I have no intention of driving this machine hard and now that I have understood the Y/YY wiring options I'm willing to give it a go before considering alternative motors.

I cleaned up the motor last night and will be refitting it later today. I hope to have a VFD fitted later next week.

I can't answer your question but I'd be interested to know how you made the sight glass and the material used.

I'm not convinced the "original" (existing) motor is original. Looking at the data plate Y/YY and duty cycle, and mess inside the connection box I suspect this has been swapped.

I've found a couple of useful links

• https://my.motovario.com/technical-data-2/m/iec/std/catalog/series-and-hookup-a169/
• https://www.wat.com.tr/baglanti-en/

and it appears the 9-wire motors have the star point "hard wired" in the windings. This may incentivize me to consider using another motor.

Tony, thank you for your reply.

Assuming I keep the existing motor (not yet decided) it will need to be reconfigured delta. Taking a closer look at the motor I see two issues.

Firstly, the motor data plate rating is 40% ED. If I understand correctly, this is a 40% duty cycle assuming full load Please correct me if I am wrong. In other words, the motor could be used at its full rated power for 4 minutes out of every 10 minutes. Without seeing a graph, I am unable to determine the duty cycle at other (more realistic for me) loads. Would it be 80% duty cycle at half power? This could be a problem.

Secondly, the motor connection box is presented with 9 labelled wires. It appears that someone has removed the original connection points and links. U1, V1 and W1 go to the power supply. The remaining 6 wires are paired as follows: U5-U2, V5-V2 and W5-W2. The connection plate identifies 220/440V is possible, as is YY/Y connection. I don't see any reason why this cannot be wired delta when I figure out the connections.

Bob, do you want to make it or would you prefer to purchase one if I can find a spare? I have a lot of Meddings spare parts but my home workshop is somewhat chaotic at present due to recent purchases.