Tool Holding

Hi,

I aquired a small mill with a morse taper 3 spindle. The spindle of the machine allows for a draw bar. I would like to attach a morse taper 3 or 2 chuck to the spindle. The 2 chucks I have with the 2 and 3 morse taper have a tang.

I have been looking on the internet for a arbor/sleeve that I can insert into the MT3 spindle and attach a draw bar.

This arbor/sleeve for tool holding would have MT3 taper on the outside,M12 thread (for the draw bar), and a MT3 or 2 taper on the inside with a tang, to insert the chuck into.

The problem is I can't find one on the internet, leading me to believe such arbors/sleeves don't exist for MT3 taper spindles. Is this correct?

Would someone be kind enough to educate me on how to attach my MT3 and 2 chucks, With a tang, to the MT3 taper of the spindle.

I would like to use a draw bar.

Many Thanks

Hi.. I think Arceurotrade have MT 2 & 3 arbors that have thread for either a draw bar or tang.

John

Sam... Are these what you're looking for?

**LINK**

John

Sam, it's not usual to use a draw bar with a Jacobs or other drill chuck, these are often retained on the Jacobs taper by a Jacobs taper in the chuck, meaning that the draw bar is only retaining the MT/JT arbor. It is unwise to try and use a drill chuck for milling, (I know, I tried). Your chuck is ok for drilling as there is no side thrust on it.

Ian S C

Sorry.. Wrong page!

**LINK**

Remove the MT3/Jacobs or B tanged arbor from your chuck and fit a new JT/B MT3 one with the M12 draw bar thread. This will allow you to hold the chuck without excess loss of room between table and chuck. Assuming they are not integral shank chucks

In other words remove this from your chuck

And replace with this

J

Edited By JasonB on 07/09/2014 16:03:59

Sam, Ian is correct it is definite no to using a drill chuck for milling, cough up and purchase a proper milling chuck using collets, ER collets would be.a good all round choice, not perfect but will do most things except chew of large cuts with fairly large cutters, say 5/8" plus. Also beware of deep side cuts even if they are shallow, the reason is that the cutting action can pull the cutter down in the collet, that's why you get screw shank cutteres or other means of preventing this.

Milling chucks come with either an integral taper of your choice or requirements or an interchangeable taper similar to your drill chucks BUT the taper is fixed to the body with a location taper and a thread, not just the taper as is the case with drill chucks.

Most of the a ones you will find at attractive prices are the former with the taper being part ofe the main body of the chuck, less expensive to make.

Hope this helps a bit Regards John

Sam have a look at this link, I have one of these and it has worked for me for over 30 years, it's accurate and grips well, at least as well as I would expect. Arc Euro and RDG tooling also offer similar chucks and quite a few come with sets of collets. No connection with the either firm but I have always been happy with anything I have purchased from them.. John

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emco-Collet-holder-2MT-for-M10-drawbar-/281098787803?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4172cb1bdb

I have a female 2MT taper on my small mill and often use the tang-ended 2 mt drill chuck from the Myford for drilling holes in work on the mill. However, its always been a nightmare with the tapers giving out and drill + chuck dropping down @ the most inconvenient time but Murphy`s Law operates - when I want to change back to the milling chuck, will the drill chuck`s taper budge? NO, of course not! Been promising for ages to remove the tang taper and fit a screw - ended one so I can hold it up with the milling chuck`s arbor. Recently, whilst using my 2nd drill chuck, it suddenly fell, leaving the 2MT stuck up the hole! I thought whoopee!, I`ll get that new screw - ended 2MT from Arc-Euro and fit it, problem now solved. The "2nd drill chuck" being a silly price @ a club auction + just had to have it as its stamped "CVA", who my Father once worked for. CVA`s factory in Portland Road, Hove was a dreadful place - could smell it yards down the road - usual smelly engineering factory. Bet locals glad its all now gone from a residential area. Whole site is a modern block of offices containing EDF`s call centre. Cannot think of a single engineering place in the area now. When I was a kind a few moons ago, there was Brighton loco. works, Lancing carriage works, CVA in hove, MetalBox in Southwick, a whole group of eng. factories on the Hollingbury, Brighton factory estate and another lot @ Newhaven, including an iron foundry. There was also a non-ferrous foundry in, would you believe, Foundry Street, Brighton. All now gone and so are most of the toolshops and those remaining are what I call Stanley screwdriver outfits! Try finding a half-decent toolshop in the area now. As far as I know, there is only "Sussex Tools" near West Worthing Station, who are very obliging and will rush to obtain whats not in stock.(Just a very satisfied customer) I forecast, give it a few, very few, years and it`ll all come back again, when the underpaid serfs of the Far East wake up to how their masters are robbing them. Its started to happen already. Thats it 4 2day folks!

I have purchased an mt3 chuck with drawbar thread from rdg in the past they stock metric and imperial threaded chucks I think.

Brian ( usual disclaimer I have no connection but am a satisfied customer who spends too much money at rdg and others. )

You are correct in assuming that I was intending to use the mt3 chuck to attached mill cutters. I have learnt the error of my ways .

I will get a end mill holder with a mt3 taper and a thread for a draw bar.

I ordered this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131194819226?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&var=430434895280&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

so to fit it on the MT3 spindle I will need an adapter MT3 to R8 taper. Its getting confusing.

Any how I will still need a way to attach drills to the MT3 taper spindle, using the MTS drill chuck.

didn't think a place like Brighton would have ever had a foundry. I worked in one, aluminium. I could never decide if the smell of aluminium on my cloths was bad or nice. strange.

Sam, please excuse me but I am confused, do you have a Mill that is R8? I am just wondering why you bought an R8 ER Collett chuck when you have a machine that takes MT3 ?

graham.

Sam, I'm afraid you have ordered the wrong thing. You do not need an R8 taper adapter in fact R8 is larger than MT3. You need two things. First a milling chuck with an MT3 taper shank and drawbar fixing which can hold milling cutters. Many people these days use ER series collets so you would need something like this from ARC: part number 050-110-25510 on this page: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Milling-Collet-Chucks-Morse-Taper-Shank.

that comes with a set of 6 collets. Then you need MT3 shanks to fit your drill chucks with a drawbar hole rather than a tang. ARC do these too, just browse their excellent site to find them.

you also need a drawbar, if there isn't one already. Ordinary threaded rod is perfectly fine for this even if not elegant.

Hope this all helps...

I have both a mill with an mt3 taper spindle and a old BP with the R8 spindle. The BP I have dismantled as I am restoring it. The small mill with the MT3 taper is working.

Thank you for the link for the collet chuck. MT3 shanks for drill chucks you mean sleeve?`http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Adaptors-Sleeves

item 120-010-00300?

I have the drawbar.