Bubble Foil Insulation for workshop, anybody used this?

Hi,

I'm trying to find a cheaper alternative to Celotex/Kingspan for insulating my shed/workshop. Has anybody used the Bubble Foil type insulation?

**LINK**

regards

Geoff~

Hi Geoff,

I've used something very similar in my double garage / workshop. My garage is brick built with a pitched roof, drylined with 6mm plywood, used a layer of foil and a layer a 50mm general purpose insulation slab for the walls. The ceiling was dylined with 6mm plywood, layer of foil and standard loft insulation rolled on top. The workshop is well insulated, stays warm in the winter and cool in the summer. It's a bit of a faraday cage though, radio and the mobile phone kept near the door. Done this 2 years ago and no issues so far.

Hi Geoff,

Yes, I used it in mine. I was going to use polystyrene sheets until I saw that the bubble foil was equivalent to 50mm of polystyrene. Someone gave me a load of loft insulation so I filled the remaining gap up with that!

The workshop is clad with steel sheeting and then the inside is lined with 10mm ply. It keeps a fairly constant temperature and takes very little heating even in the cold winter months.

John

Edited By John Baguley on 15/07/2014 12:26:13

David/John,

Many thanks

Geoff~

Reflective insulation is only really more efficient than 'conventional' when there is a high temperature differential such that radiant heat transfer is a significant proportionof the total. It might therefore be as good as advertised in the antarctic but not in the UK. If you want 50mm of insulation get 50mm no shortcuts though you should aim for 100mm at least.

Reflective insulation has excellent performance, even in the UK.

There is no point in any insulation if there is no difference in temperature, but when there is a difference that is exactly when you need it, and that is when reflective insulation performs best because it incorporates efficient conductive as well as reflective properties.

Hi Geoff,

I have used large bubble b-wrap on roof of my shed, over original felt when that needed replacement,then new felt over the bubble wrap. Inside of roof lined with thick sheets of scrounged polystyrene. 3-ply plywood obtained free on walls and space filled with roof insulation of the woolly stuff type- is it fibreglass or mineral wool or whatever they call it? Have a Max/Min thermometer to see whats going on and it still goes up and down but not by quite so many degrees. Also have the benefit of morning shade from neighbours giant apple that the poor ol` boy has been unable to prune for many years. Late afternoon sun shading in part by my adjacent neighbours large room-in-roof extension. Extremes of hot and cold weather still make it uncomfortable. I have got 4 batten holders connected in series with old-style 60W bulbs, fixed inside a wooden box to protect bulbs from breakage. They just glow with low light output. I find that the series connection reduces current useage and therefore cost, placed on drip tray of mill which is covered in thick layer of plastic bags provides protection against dew-point deposition of condensation and resulting rust taking place. Plastic bags recycled from sand and ballast, original use, so free. Plastic but no heat on lathe and heavy bench drill. Hope this helps. John.

I used a blanket-type insulation in my loft conversion. I forget the name and details but it had something like 14 different layers, including metalised polyester, closed cell foam and some form of fibrous matting. There was little chance of convection within most of the layers, conduction was limited by the foam etc and the metalisation reduced radiated transmission. The total thickness was about 25mm but was allegedly equivalent to about 10" of glass fibre insulation.

The cynics will pipe up that it's not as good as that but believe me it was pretty good (and it meets the building reg requirements in that category). You tape it up carefully and make sure there aren't any holes in it. In a loft conversion, there usually isn't 10' of space to lose from all the walls and headroom unless you are planning on selling the house to a family of dwarves afterwards. May be a bit expensive for insulating a garage - depends how much you value your floor space.

Murray

So whats the bottom line on this foil bubble type insulation, Is it worth bothering with at all ? My shed is half the length of the garden but it is quite narrow, at about 8 1/2', so i don't want to make it any narrower. If it were wider i'd use the 50mm expanded foam type stuff, but i simply don't have the room. Can i adhere the foil to the cavity block wall and put thin plywood sheeting over it ?

The reviews on the Wickes site suggest the bubble wrap is a good solution over a puny insulation layer.

Neil

Was only looking at this stuff yesterday as its used as additional insulation under Static caravans. The reviews are quite good. The problem with the thicker loft insulation type stuff on caravans is the mice, and other little wild life love it so thinking the shed could also become hotel for them.

What worries me also about insulation are problems like mould and dry rot, Having read somewhere that insufficient ventilation in lofts etc can cause problems. I sometimes wish i lived in california or the south of france or somewhere perpetually warm.

Ronan,

I started this thread and I still haven't made my mind up!

You can request free samples and installation guidance from here..

http://www.superfoil.co.uk/sfba/

Geoff

Edited By Geoff~ on 10/01/2015 22:01:15

Hi Geoff.

sent you a PM

DAVE.

Hi Geoff.

sent you a PM

DAVE.

Ronan I wouldn't bother with the foil against cavity blocks but would be better than nothing. The main benefit you would see is the air space between the cavity block and suggested plywood however small.

I have had bubble foil over steel doors for 4 yrs exposed to elements and visible internally, but getting it to stay put is something else. It works good and reflects internal heat. However you would get better effect just by layering plywood with an air space between. Mines lined with MDF interlocking floorboard think around 8ft tall painted over, must have done it 16 years ago. Just an air space created which will be better than plywood, at least you can screw in to it rather than plywood then in to the battons. Downside the MDFchipboard is 18 1/2 mm thick but come in 22 1/2" wide interlocked + air space/battons.

Roofs just 1/8" ply done 22 years ago, massive improvement. Recent times cheap insulation in between the rafters gave an improvement. Its now topped off with mdf which has given absolute minimal improvement.

One of the biggest improvements is laying something however thick on the cold floor. Two years put down that cheap ribbed stuff, not only does it warm up quicker it stays warmer for longer, not to mention dropsies and damage.

Hi is this 50 shed of Myford?

Yes any insulation is better than none (provided is doesnt suffer wetness), but with all sheds, garages, outbuilding, they will have many sources of wind leakage, and these really must be thoroughly sealed up if you are to benefit form conserved heat, otherwise a windy day will just whistle your heat away in a heartbeat - its not as easy as it sounds.

One method to consider would be to get a PU foam installer to coate the inside surfaces with 50mm spray. It certainly works and is quick. You can buy the DIY semi pro kit yourself for ca £250. I dont advise those nasty spray cans - very poor results generally - nozzle blocks quickly thru atmospheric moisture, you have to use it all in <10mins. Wear goggles and gloves as its a deveil to remove from skin

Cheers

Robin

Unashamed thread revival.

This stuff has been around for a few years now. Would appreciate feedback from those who have used it.