Myford ML7 Oilers

Both my original Myford oilers developed cracks in the clear plastic part and consequently leaked oil. They were 34 years old so I guess they haven't done badly, so I decided to buy some new ones. I ordered two from RGD tools and fitted them to the lathe and very nice they look too. The trouble is I can't make them drip properly like the old ones did. In fact they don't drip at all and I can't seem to stop them leaking all their contents over night.

Has anyone else used these and experienced similar issues? I am very disappointed with them.

Not sure what the RDG items are like, are these the ones you have bought

If I had to change my 1949 items I would probably go for an Adams Drip Feed Oiler

I fitted something similar to the ones above to my Boxford to lubricate the gear train and like yours the dont hold oil for long, back to the trusty oil can..

Regards

Yes that's exactly what they look like, you would think they would do what they are intended to do. Why go to the trouble of making and selling them if they don't work properly. Wondering if they can be modified?

Oilers are oft discussed on the Myford Yahoo Group.

A typical entry here: **LINK**

which may be of interest.

Phil

The link works for me as I am in the Group, but you may need to join to see it.

Edited By Robbo on 11/02/2014 21:13:56

Mickypee If I remember correctly the original Myford oilers had an adjustable needle valve I'm not sure the ones in Pauls photo do You may have to dismantle one to find out If they do then they probably just need adjusting

Hope this is of some help

Roy

I bought replacement drip oilers from Lathespares some years ago. Not really like the ones shown in Paul's picture - mine were a silver colour (zinc plated probably) and had a little flip lever on top to cut off the flow when not in use.

I didn't have any better experience than Mick, though. The flow was either none or a full shot in an hour. They even flowed when nominally cut off by the flip lever.

I've since replaced them with little flip-top oilers and just give them a squirt when starting a session.

I think this may be of interest.

MichaelG..

This oiler and it's twin are not feeding. I have read the posts but it is not at all clear to me how to get it apart. The top knurled nut can be undone but then tightens again towards the top and won't move. The lock ring is loose. I have not used grips or anything on the top nut but await advice. The wick is dry. I have just got the ML7, more as an historical artifact, and because it was only $300, as I have a very capable lathe. I am not familiar with Myfords but have determined that it is a 1964 model, and it appears to be in excellent condition. No doubt I will have more questions.

.

IMHO that's RDG for you.

As a relative newbie I have needed to purchase lots of different items to get me started. - RDG seemed at the time the ideal 'one stop shop' for many items.

But everything I have purchased from them has been replaced or is on the list of items to be replaced / upgraded.

Their delivery times are excellent. But that's it.!

Nick

Simon,

I cannot help you with your repair as I have only ever used drip feed oilers, but if you are unsuccessful and require replacements Adams of Coventry still make (yes make believe it or not) the exact oilers you would need.

Models USF and SWF in the PDF below.

http://www.adamslube.com/Oilers_Main/Oilers_Cat_PDF/Drip_Feed_Lub.pdf

Thanks Ralph. I should have started a new thread and I will.

I have bought these RDG oilers.

They are a nuisance but got them working.

1. The sliding lid closing filling hole on the top is not good. Seal is not there and grit from workshop can penetrate inside. So the spring loaded closure from old broken oiler was soldered in to remedy nuisance.

2. Felt rings were made and installed on the pipe with hole at the bottom (oil pass through this hole from reservoir).

They act as oil filters and are important, if you don't want to have unnecessary problems with bearings.

3. For some reason oil was not dripping but flowing on the wall of short section of the sight tube. To remedy that rubber seal was replaced by identical one made of Teflon, punched from 0.5mm PTFE plate (carefully applied plumber sealing tape will also do). It repells oil (cannot be wetted with it, preventing capillary forces from drawing it sideways) and now oil drips, not leak along the wall of plastic sight tube as it was in original design.

4. Needle valve locking flow of oil was good as purchased. For now it doesnt leak and slow flow 1 drop per 1-2 minutes can be established. Actually if that was not good either, I would trow entire thing away. It is ahame that engineering company cannot design working oiler and I had to piddle a lot to re-engineer it to standard.

And it would not be even more expensive to make it right at the first place.

The Adams link above (2015) didn't work for me, try **LINK** and go to oilers from the main page.
DaveD

I had exactly the same trouble with replacement drip-oilers. I got fed up in the end and 5 years ago I replaced them (along with those on the secondary, pulley shaft) with the little brass oil cups with flip lids.

I just give them a squirt from the oil can when I start work - more if I'm working many hours at a stretch (not often these days).