Member postings for mickypee

The age of Jap two strokes was a golden age IMHO. The likes of the KH250/400, RD250/400, RD350LC etc. It's a real shame we don't have such machines like that these days. Full of character, highly dangerous and tons of fun. I'm rebuilding a 1992 Honda Fireblade at the moment, the "Urban Tiger" as it was known. Another mental bike but the one that started it all for what we now accept as the modern super bike. Although I have found a 1981 750 Bonnerville US Spec in Florida for $2000. All complete and has been stored in an air conditioned garage for 30 years. This was the bike I wanted when I was a little chap but could never afford it, so I have to have it really. Going to see it in a few weeks time.

I'm very excited to see your 750 Kettle project progress, please post pictures as you go.

I for one think it is an excellent magazine, lets face it, there isn't a similar publication that is anything close to what we have here. As for articles relating to the beginners, there is always something new to learn and perhaps a better way of completing a task in a different way that may be better. No one knows everything there is to know about the subject and I welcome these articles even though I have many years experience in engineering.

As for the direction the magazine is taking, I enjoy some of the tangential subjects in vehicle and electronic applications and long may it continue. We all have cars and many of us restore or rebuild automotive projects ranging from motorbikes to classic cars. Some of the topics that have been focussed on recently (removal of rust or paint for example) apply to many areas from restoring a lathe or the removal of corrosion on a machined surface all of which is entirely relevant to what we enjoy.

I would like to see more articles on workshop construction, be it wooden or bricks along with fitting out such buildings with electrics or may be air systems. My own workshops resemble more of a construction of a house with many elaborate wiring and electrical applications. I have ceiling mounted lifting gear, compressed air plumbing and computer systems such as internet cabling etc. These days we all live in a hi-tech world and we all rely on computers and the associated hardware that goes with them, so what about articles on installing Cap3 cables, routers, cnc applications etc. The list is endless but one thing is for sure, we all use it in some form. Many of us aspire to have DRO's on our machines, so what about installing and fitting out a lathe with one of the proprietary DRO units that are commercially available. Living with old fashioned methods that may have been around for years is fine, but things have moved on and we are all able to take advantage of all these exciting new products that are available.

It is true that cutting a piece of metal on a lathe or mill is the same process that it has always been but these days there are many electronic aids to help us do it more accurately, I can't remember the last time I used a micrometer or a vernier that wasn't digital, it's just the way these things have evolved.

So lets continue with the diversification and innovative ideas the magazine has to offer, I will be renewing my subscription at the end of the year along with a digital subscription so I can read all the articles on my computer.

Mr Editor, keep up the good work, you are producing one of the best magazines out there, I am very happy with what you are doing and look forward to the articles to come.

Edited By mickypee on 24/09/2014 11:18:11

Edited By mickypee on 24/09/2014 11:19:13

From experience, applying a chemical paint stripper will cause you issues. Fibreglass although is a plastic/resin based material is pourous. For example, if you leave a fibreglass car body in the open even with a cover on it will absorb moisture. Agreed if the body is then taken inside in a warm environment (like our beloved workshops) it will eventually dry out. However, even a surface that has a gel coat finish which most bodies do, the moisture can cause small blisters to appear on the surface under the gel coat. The only way to remove the imperfections is to rub down the surface and apply another finish, paint being the most obvious.

However, if you use a chemical to remove the paint, it is very likely that even with washing the chemical off, some of it may penetrate into the fibres underneath. After all your hard work preparing the surface and then apply a painted finish, it is highly likely that the chemicals underneath will find their way out causing undesirable effects on your lovely finish. It is my recommendation that you DON'T use this method but revert to go old fashioned elbow grease to prepare the body for repainting. Once the body is finished, application of a good wax to seal the paint will very much help to stop any moisture ingress in the future. I spend a great deal of my time with TVR's (see my website) and so have come across the many times in the past. You will be very upset I'm sure if you end up with a compromised finish in the future. Similarly, avoid using an oven to cure the paint once it has been sprayed, let it dry naturally allowing the solvents to escape with force drying them.

Hope this helps

Mike

Thank you Neil for looking into this. Could you send me a message with the results when you know.

Mike

Now I know you are all going to roll your eyes and say you should know better, but I think I might have missed something here.

I have a new job which takes me to Jeddah for two weeks of the month and as its that special time in the month when my favourite mag falls through the letterbox, I thought don't worry I can read it on line. But it would appear not as I seem to be unable to view the digital issue this month. Although my subscription doesn't expire until the end of the year, I can't read this months issue. Is there a way round this? Can I upgrade or do I have to wait until the renewal is due.

Very disappointed as there isn't much in the way of engineering over here, just a lot of sand and camels!!

Only my opinion but a Bridgeport is the machine to have. Mine is the varispeed head and I have had no issue. Usual things apply, keep it well maintained and it will perform faultlessly. A friend of mine has also got one and his was noisy compared to mine. There is a plastic/nylon bush that fits around the top part of the quill top that wears. He replaced it along with the bearing that it sits on for little money and now its silent. I spent a bit of money on my own replacing the handles and knobs etc along with nickel plating a number of external steel components. Partly because I'm completely OCD when it comes to this sort of thing but I wanted it to be perfect and now it is pretty much there. It's a great machine to use and it gets loads of use with all sorts of jobs. Like all these things you end up spending on all the extras. I bought a traming tool from Edge Technology to set the head perfectly and all sorts of bits. I'm going to buy a multi angle vice next for those occasions when you simply can't hold a job in a normal vice, but that's the fun of having a mill I guess. There is always something to buy or upgrade.

Shop around before committing to buy, there are some really keen deals to be had. I paid £2000 for mine and it's like new, no wear or damage.

Good luck, send us all some pictures of your purchase when you get one.

I have had an ML7 for 30 years and indeed it is a delight to use. Even now I look forward to using it, but I agree with Bob Brown 1, it is no where big enough to do normal tasks such as vehicle components. I am lucky enough to have an M300 Harrison which is a very capable machine. I made two TVR flywheels recently without any problems. (only just fitted mind) So i guess there is both ends of the scale, you can alway make small items on a big lathe but not the other way round. If you look on Ebay, you can pick up a Harrison sometimes with tooling for the same or less than a Myford. I too am still unable to work out why Myfords command such high prices. They are nice but some times limited. Have a search on the internet for some good deals and go and look before parting with your hard earned funds.

Triard Fasteners. Buy all my nuts and bolts from them and I have asked for some weird stuff. Great company to deal with. 01902 602391

Leave it with me and I will see what I can do!

Hi Andy,

Welcome to the forum. Don't know if I can help you but I will if I can. I fly a 320 and 330 for a living so I can measure any component dimension you need and opposite my home is the man who supplies Airbus all the metal for fabrication. I could ask him if he can get hold of some drawings for you.

Also if you need photo's, I could do that as well.

Mike

Yes that's exactly what they look like, you would think they would do what they are intended to do. Why go to the trouble of making and selling them if they don't work properly. Wondering if they can be modified?

Both my original Myford oilers developed cracks in the clear plastic part and consequently leaked oil. They were 34 years old so I guess they haven't done badly, so I decided to buy some new ones. I ordered two from RGD tools and fitted them to the lathe and very nice they look too. The trouble is I can't make them drip properly like the old ones did. In fact they don't drip at all and I can't seem to stop them leaking all their contents over night.

Has anyone else used these and experienced similar issues? I am very disappointed with them.

Go onto Amazon, and in the books section just type Myford lathe. There are a number of books that cover maintenance and repair as well as how to use it. Mr Sparey wrote a brilliant book simple called "The Amateur's Lathe" To be honest the only book you need to buy for it. Also the manual for the ML7 is still available and that is a must have really. I've had an ML7 for 25 years or so, wouldn't swap it for the world. With a little care it should give you much pleasure for years to come.

Just had a look for you and right at the top of the list is the manual written by Ian Bradley, £5.46 and free p&p. Buy that and most of your questions will be answered.

Edited By mickypee on 09/02/2014 17:23:42

I bought my Harrison M300 about 5 years ago and use it all the time for all sorts of jobs. My little Myford is still used but no where near as much before the Harrison. I spent a few pennies replacing any damaged or worn components and it is a joy to use. Mine is a three phase unit but you could easily swap the motor for a single phase one if you don't have three phase in your workshop. The parts are expensive if you buy them from 600 but to be honest how often does anything break? I only put new bits on my lathe because I'm completely ocd and everything has to be perfect, but I'm glad I did.

Once you have purchased one, you will never need anything thing else, should last you a lifetime. I know some folks have said that there have been headstock issues but in a ME workshop I doubt you will ever have trouble. The only thing that has ever gone wrong with it was I broke a roll pin on the spindle that drives the cross feed. I made a new pin and it was up and running in no time.

In summary, great machine

Autosmart "Smart Wheels" It is used for cleaning brake dust off wheels. Use it all the time for cleaning engine components etc, brilliant stuff. Spray it on, wash it off. Tell her it took you two hours and play to your hearts content.

I have the exact tool and I bought 55 degree and 60 degree tips for imperial and metric threads. Had complete success, doing an M12 x 1.25 thread in the morning on a gear lever I have made for a TVR. Bit nervous as it is stainless bar and quite tough to cut. Gentle cuts required I think.

Mike

I bought mine from Axminster Power Tools, great value for money and a super bit of kit. I use it mostly for removing the letters etc from stainless bolts before polishing them.

Why not fit the machine with a DRO which will have an option to switch between metric and imperial. Probably cost around £400 which you might spend converting the machine any way. Very accurate and takes care of any wear that it might have. I have DRO's on my mill and both lathes, couldn't imagine life without them.

Mike

My copy has just dropped through the post, I don't know what you are all moaning about.

Fresh, clear and well produced, a credit to the MEW team. A good cross section of articles as usual, something for everyone. I am especially pleased to see a column on making the ML7 into needle roller bearings, something I have wanted to do for years.

Well done, keep up the good work.

Mike

I am also more automotive than models and do a lot of bespoke work on vehicles (see website) I have a Myford late as well but mainly use my Harrison M300 lathe which is more than capable of any vehicle projects. They can be found reasonably cheaply and in good order. In my opinion if you have the space, it's the lathe to have.

Mike