ML7 Lubrication

Another question - sorry and thanks!

My ML7 has raised nipple oil points on the countershaft / drive area but almost flush oil points on the saddle / slides etc.

I don't have an oiler yet - do I need two to cope with the different geomety of the points as raised nipple types on the saddle would be a pita + I can't see an easy way of removing the old ones as they are flush with no means of applying any torque to them.

As ever, help appreciated.

Simon.

Edited By Simon B on 24/11/2012 10:21:09

While we are in this vein, do Reilang oil cans come with adaptors for different oil nipples or do they just have the standard cone at the tip?

Len. P.

I'll try again.

To all those lovely people who said recently on this forum that they have Reilang oil cans, do these oil cans come with adaptors for different oil nipples or do they just have the standard cone at the tip?

When you have finished watching West Ham play this afternoon on Sky perhaps you could let me know.

Len. P.

P.S. Perhaps somebody could answer Simon's question as well.

Some photos to see what I mean:

Edited By Simon B on 26/11/2012 20:48:21

Simon,

use a 1ft of clear plastic tubing (windshield cleanner nozzle)

Push it over the oil nipple and maitain it with the hand (the oil pressure push it out)

d'ont forget to oil the back gear mechanism (2 points)

pierre

Hi Simon,

The nipples on the countershaft are not for oil but are grease nipples and are intended to be used with a grease gun. The simplest push type has a cupped end to fit the nipple and the pressure of pushing the telescopic gun seals and pushes in grease. There are ones such as the Wanner lever gun which clamp on to the nipple and have to be released after use. The latter are too high pressure for this application a simple push type would be best. I don't know what grease is recommended for this application as I have not had anything to do with Myfords for 40 + years.

The 'flush' ones are ball oilers, just push the nipple of the spout of the oilcan onto it and squeeze the trigger. The ball is sprung and will let oil in but keep dirt and swarf out.

Regards

Terry

Terry,

Thanks for this - I was under the understanding all points were for oil and the only applicatrion of grease was onto the gears directly? Have I got this wrong?

Simon.

My hand book says Esso Nuto H32 for all nipples Oil of viscosity SA30 on all sliding parts Feed Screws lead screws etc No mention of grease anywhere

Len,

the Reilangs all have just the cone end.

John

Hi Len,

I don't have a Reilang but all the lathes I have seen have only one type of oiler - the ball type. That is if you discount wick, gravity or splash oilers, As I said in my last post, the ball type has a sprung ball which opens when the oil pressure is applied from the can and closes to keep out dirt etc. wipe them before oiling.

The larger, raised nipples are grease nipples - see last posting of mine above.

Best regards

Terry

Sorry Terry, they are oil nipples, they have no undercut for the end to snap on.

It's been a bain of every Myford owners life that the OIL gun supplied with a Myford leaks when filling this nipples, given is a metal to metal push fit it's hardly surprising.

John S.

Hi there, all,

I have both the original and the 'improved' Myford-supplied oil guns. My experience is that some oil goes into the oil nipple but some (probably more) goes round the outside of the nipple, it's a bit messy.

However, what I find even more messy is that even more oil exits the oil gun via the filler cap into the palm of the hand. Despite the great volume of adverse comment about the ML7 oil gun, I've never seen any reference to this defect on any of the forums - does this not happen to other ML7 users?

The disk of cork or whatever in the oil gun filler cap only has the thickness (about 10 thou) of the oil gun body to seal against, it owes more to superstition and blind optimism than to reasoned design!

Just my two penneth.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi John,

Having looked closer I see what you mean I thought that they looked like button headed grease nipples. My eyes take a while to get working in the mornings these days . Perhaps it may be an idea to swap for grease points rather than oil?

Regards

Terry

Thanks for that info John, I think I'll stick with my "Wescos".

Len. P.

Terryd I think you will find the countershaft runs in 'oilite' bushes the name suggests oil not grease

A couple of thicknesses of clean cloth between the oil gun and the nipple seem to stop the oil going everywhere with mine on the ML10 countershaft.

The headstock bearings I grease with Lithium grease (Castrol) and of late I have been using a PTFE spary on the slides with no ill effects.

Regards the leaking cap on the oil gun, a tight fitting leather washer has stopped mine from leaking. Very simple to cut and fit, you could even make a sharp edged punch to do it !

Clive

There was considerable discussion sometime ago, in I think, ME on this subject and how to successfully mod. Myfords original oilgun. Guy Lautard came up with what looked like a brilliant solution in one of his books. Myfords eventually had for sale an improved oilgun at what I thought was far too expensive so did not buy.

Hi There

If you put a piece of paper between the nipple and the oil gun it stops the oil squirting everywhere.

regards David

I picked up on that when you mentioned it some time ago David and it always worked well for me with a scrap of soft kitchen towel ..... thanks.

Based on another thread, I've recently replaced what nipples I can with regular, brass flip-top oilers which has simplified things enormously.

Hi Sid

How did you gat the original spring ball oil tips out? Are they screwed in or a push fit. The flip top oilers sound entirely sensible.

Oh BTW, the photo up top shows what looks like grease nipples on the counter shaft. I dont think grease is a suitable lubricant, too high a speed on plain bearings

Cheers

Robin