Lapping a bronze cylinder
Clive Hartland | 17/05/2012 14:27:03 |
![]() 2929 forum posts 41 photos | I have two 13mm bores to lap and they are made of bronze, any tips on the lap materiel and grades of compound to use. I have 600 and 1000 grade compound that I can use. I need to remove as little as possible. Clive |
Stub Mandrel | 17/05/2012 21:02:29 |
![]() 4318 forum posts 291 photos 1 articles | Lap has to be softer than the material to be cut and allow the abrasive to embed, so I'd suggest an aluminium alloy or even wood. Neil |
Clive Hartland | 17/05/2012 22:05:15 |
![]() 2929 forum posts 41 photos | Thanks for the reply Neil, my thoughts also and was considering making a lead lap. The job at the moment has to be mounted on a mandrel to machine the outside and I was considering using that as a lap but it is steel. So I think I will go with the Alu. lap. Clive |
JohnF | 17/05/2012 23:38:39 |
![]() 1243 forum posts 202 photos | Hi Clive, If you need the lap adjustable make a lead lap, I have made many of these to lap barrels. I knurl a BMS rod then drill and taper ream for a taper pin, split this section of the BMS rod and deburr the inside for the taper pin then cast an oversize section of lead over the knurled section. I made a split alluminium mould for this. lastly turn to the diameter requiered and "load" with lapping paste by rolling the lap on a glass plate. It can of course be expanded by tapping in the taper pin. Oh and don't forget to put some oil in the bore and wash well when fininshed. For an extra fine finish use pumis mixed with oil but I have not used this on bronze. Good luck John. |
julian atkins | 17/05/2012 23:47:46 |
![]() 1285 forum posts 353 photos | hi clive, i would split a length of 12mm copper tube inserted over a wooden dowel and use that as a lap, or else use a wooden dowel with very fine wet and dry paper (1200 grade) wrapped around till reasonably tight in the bore. wash out afterwards with paraffin. it is very important that the lapping compound cant be squeezed into a recess and cut deeper than required.. hence a split lap or the use of fine wet and dry paper (in it's dry state), plus the use with (very fine) compound of a lap that must be softer than the cylinder material. avoid valve grinding paste like the plague... it's far too course for our requirements. if you use 'brasso' make sure it doesnt dry out during the lapping process. personally i prefer 1200 grade wet and dry paper. good luck! cheers, julian |
Ian S C | 18/05/2012 12:12:57 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | I use wooden laps, turned to a sliding fit, and split down the middle, a wood screw is fitted in the slot to expand the lap as required. Ian S C |
fizzy | 20/05/2012 21:57:50 |
![]() 1860 forum posts 121 photos | can someone please explain this process to me...i thought it was akin to honing but now im confused??? |
Clive Hartland | 26/05/2012 16:51:58 |
![]() 2929 forum posts 41 photos | OK, I have carried out the lapping of the bores and I used a piece of PTFE rod. After turning it to a push fit in the bores I slit it down the middle and then put a screw in the end and used 1000 grade abrasive. Its come out fine with a matt finish on the surface in the bore, more than good enough for me. Clive |
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.