Wolfie | 14/10/2011 06:37:40 |
![]() 502 forum posts | Next silly question! How do I tell the difference between silver steel and stainless steel. |
Skarven | 14/10/2011 06:49:38 |
![]() 93 forum posts 11 photos | Hi, You could start with a magnet. If it's non-magnetic, it should be stainless. If it's magnetic, You could use two pieces of known silver steel and stainless as a reference and make a "Spark test" on a grinding wheel. If you have a low light condition without fluorescent light it is easier to see the difference. The following link gives some info. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_testing Good luck! |
mick H | 14/10/2011 07:47:53 |
795 forum posts 34 photos |
Cut off a small bit, heat to bright red heat then stick it (quench) in cold water, if it is silver steel then it will have hardened to such an extent that you will not be able to file it. After you have identified it, mark it with a paint code.
Some stainless is magnetic, though I believe most is not.
Edited By mick H on 14/10/2011 07:48:42 Edited By mick H on 14/10/2011 07:49:09 |
Nicholas Farr | 14/10/2011 08:06:22 |
![]() 3988 forum posts 1799 photos | Hi, it can be confusing, even with the ideas mentioned, because you can get martensitic stainless steels which are hardenable. One difference between stainless steels and silver steel is that nearly all stainless steels will not rust, silver steel however will rust. The thing is there are so many stainless steel grades, it is best to know what you have when you purchase it, and mark it accordingly. Only austenitic stainless steels are non magnetic
Regards Nick. Edited By Nicholas Farr on 14/10/2011 08:33:45 |
Skarven | 14/10/2011 08:09:24 |
![]() 93 forum posts 11 photos | Some stainless steels are magnetic, some not. The magnetic test will only tell if it is NOT silver steel. If the steel is magnetic, it could be both silver steel and some magnetic stainless steel. Some stainless steels can also be hardened, so this test will not give a simple answer. Most (I think) stainless steel of the 300 type (304,316) containing chromium and nickel are non-magnetic. These are also marked as 18/10 18/8 ...for their chromium and nickel content and they are called Austenitic. I think the steel used in propeller shafts of boats is of another type because of the bad frictional characteristic of chromium/nickel steel. |
Ian S C | 14/10/2011 08:46:19 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | I have been fooled by a bit of chrome plated brass, non magnetic thought it was stainless. Ian S C
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Skarven | 14/10/2011 19:19:38 |
![]() 93 forum posts 11 photos | I think the Copper sulfate was part of my first Chemistry set about 40 years ago. It should still be somewhere. It should be a simple test to perform. This is a link with some chemical testing for different types of stainless steel. The Hydrochloric Acid Test should be useful. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/identification-stainless-steel-d_383.html However, I still think the spark test is one that everybody can do with their existing equipment. Either a bench grinder or Angle grinder or maybe a Dremel? If you have a few pieces of known materials to compare with, it's much easier to do, but there are lots of info on the net: The following link shows pictures of sparks from different materials: http://www.wearanswers.com/Instant-Answers/Instant-Answers/Spark-Testing-for-Material-Identification.html I am no expert in this field, but after testing a few pieces of known materials I'm convinced that this is a useful method if you can spare the time to collect a few pieces of different materials, mark them , and look at the sparks. Of course, the best would be to be very clever and mark everything you ever get into your workshop, but who does, and sometimes you find an unknown piece of steel that seems to be exactly right for something, maybe for free! |
Skarven | 14/10/2011 19:26:39 |
![]() 93 forum posts 11 photos | I forgot, The real simple test is to stick it in an orange, leave it outside for some time, and see if there is any rust on it! |
Wolfie | 15/10/2011 18:31:33 |
![]() 502 forum posts | Arrgh I have a jam jar full of thin rod which is mixed silver and stainless. Only one of the dozen rods isn't magnetic at all and the others are to a varying degree. So the non-magnetic piece is definitely stainless then right?? Edited By Wolfie on 15/10/2011 18:32:54 |
Nicholas Farr | 15/10/2011 20:04:14 |
![]() 3988 forum posts 1799 photos | Hi Wolfie, yes your non magnetic piece is most likley to be stainlees steel.
Regards Nick. |
DMB | 16/10/2011 00:19:30 |
1585 forum posts 1 photos | Hi all,
If anyone wants some copper sulphate, just put the 2 words into google + you will find several suppliers. I once obtained some by mail order for testing as recommended in this thread and Ialso use it for coating steel b4 marking out. |
mick H | 16/10/2011 05:54:31 |
795 forum posts 34 photos | In the olden days, when I was a boy and when this was a proper country and people had commonsense it was possible to buy small quantities of all manner of chemicals at Boots and other chemists. About a year ago I tried to buy some copper sulphate at a Boots pharmacy and the pharmacist refused to sell me any in case I wanted to make a bomb with it !!!
So careful what you're doing with that stuff !
|
Richard Parsons | 16/10/2011 15:48:32 |
![]() 645 forum posts 33 photos |
Copper Sulphate. Go to your garden supplier they sell it. It is main ingredient of 'Bordeaux Mixture' for your vines
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mick H | 16/10/2011 19:04:22 |
795 forum posts 34 photos |
Exactly Richard. The pharmacist probably got himself one of those degrees that you get with three tokens from a cornflakes packet. Edited By mick H on 16/10/2011 19:04:51 |
Stub Mandrel | 16/10/2011 21:26:26 |
![]() 4318 forum posts 291 photos 1 articles | > pharmacist refused to sell me any in case I wanted to make a bomb with it !!! When I was lad (not that long ago) the chemist sold all sorts of useful compunds, but you had to be careful to buy them one at a time, and have the right excuse handy "It's for my mum's fish tank". Quite how we survived our pyrotechnic experiments without injury, I don't know, but I reckon half my class would have ended up in Guantanamo Bay these days. One of my adult mentors used to show me his stump of a thumb and warn me against such things. Well he half convinced me of the need to be careful... Neil |
Steve Withnell | 17/10/2011 07:12:03 |
![]() 858 forum posts 215 photos | eBay is a good source of copper sulphate. |
Wolfie | 18/10/2011 13:17:52 |
![]() 502 forum posts | As a matter of interest, why is stainless non-magnetic surely it has plenty of iron in it?? And if these 2 materials are so similar, does it matter which I use to make a scriber? Edited By Wolfie on 18/10/2011 13:19:36 |
Steve Withnell | 18/10/2011 19:57:32 |
![]() 858 forum posts 215 photos | Posted by Wolfie on 18/10/2011 13:17:52:
As a matter of interest, why is stainless non-magnetic surely it has plenty of iron in it??
And if these 2 materials are so similar, does it matter which I use to make a scriber?
Edited By Wolfie on 18/10/2011 13:19:36 If you heat steels upto a temperature I can't remember (!) the they become non-magnetic Steve
|
wotsit | 18/10/2011 20:11:55 |
188 forum posts 1 photos | Re Wolfies remark about making a scriber, and determining which bit of steel to use. I used a large masonry nail, brazed it into a hole in the end of a bit of steel rod (any rod, silver, stainless, even brass!), then ground the end sharp - its been in use for years, and the thin nail means I get a good view of the tip and line I am scribing - I don't care if the shank is magnetic, rustless or copper coloured. |
Skarven | 18/10/2011 20:47:47 |
![]() 93 forum posts 11 photos | Here is a link with info on magnetic properties of ss. http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=1140 It seems to be the way the iron is organized on the molecular level that decide the magnetic properties. Interesting to see that coldworking of 304 can make it magnetic, and heating it afterwards can remove the magnetism. |
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