Peter Bell | 15/10/2010 07:12:36 |
399 forum posts 167 photos | I have been clumsy enough to snap a 4ba tap in a bit of 10mm x 25mm steel.
The remains are well rooted and almost flush with the bar. I know this is an ancient problem but does anyone have a good method of getting it out without resorting to a spark eroder etc (which I dont have!) ? I could plug the bar and redrill and retap 4ba if necessary afterwards.
Thanks Peter |
JasonB | 15/10/2010 07:28:57 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | A couple of small metal pins down the flutes of the tap and a tommy bar between and you hay be able to wind it out, just like a tap extractor. Can take several attempts and a bit of picking with an old scriber.
Jason |
Peter Bell | 15/10/2010 07:49:42 |
399 forum posts 167 photos | Thanks Jason. Just tried that but not a enough room to get pins of any size in, it is snapped on the taper part and is really tight.
Peter |
KWIL | 15/10/2010 09:06:57 |
3681 forum posts 70 photos | You say plug the bar? Are you able to drill in from the other side, directly opposite the original hole? If so you may be able to punch out the offending tap and then as you ask, plug and retap from the starting side. What is the component? |
Michael Cox 1 | 15/10/2010 09:14:22 |
555 forum posts 27 photos | Is it a carbon steel tap or an HSS tap? If it is carbon steel the just heat the part to red heat and allow it to cool slowly. The tap will then be soft and it can be drilled out using a normal HSS twist drill. Then the hole can be plugged and retapped.
Mike |
John Olsen | 15/10/2010 09:58:55 |
1294 forum posts 108 photos 1 articles | Do you have an air die grinder or a Dremel tool? With a tiny diamond burr you can grind away enough of the tap to get the remains out, usually not wrecking the hole too badly either. It does tend to use up the burr, but they are not too pricy. regards John |
Richard Parsons | 15/10/2010 14:26:10 |
![]() 645 forum posts 33 photos |
One of the many reasons why taps break is due to them getting jammed up with swarf. I was taught 1/3 turn forward and 2/3 turn back to cleat it. It looks as if this is what you have got. Have a look at the broken bit of the tap. Does it show a twisted fracture? Try a little ferric chloride solution this may well eat away the harder tap and the fine swaf. It takes a few days but it works. There was l long discussion about this in an earlier thread including how to do it. Good luck! |
Mike | 15/10/2010 15:10:27 |
![]() 713 forum posts 6 photos | Not sure I remember this correctly, but I seem to recall a toolroom engineer once telling me that in his shop they caused snapped-off taps to shatter by using an ultrasonic probe. Is this right - does anyone have any details? |
Peter Bell | 15/10/2010 15:41:19 |
399 forum posts 167 photos | I thought it must have been covered a few times but could not find anything. Unfortunatly it is the taper part of the tap that is broken in and I knocked it when returning rather than snapping it while tapping. It is also in the full depth of the plate but broken flush.
Tried a dremel but only succeeded in ruining the diamond burrs so I think it is HSS.
Unfortunatly I do not have any ferric chloride but I like the idea of making a "hollow" drill to take the lot out and plug it.
Anyone recommend a tooth shape fort he hollow drill?
Thanks for all the suggestions
Peter |
mick | 15/10/2010 17:27:32 |
421 forum posts 49 photos | not that its a lot of good if you don't have any, but three square stellite run at speed will take out HSS taps. |
Richard Parsons | 15/10/2010 18:24:48 |
![]() 645 forum posts 33 photos | You can get Ferric Chloride from any one who sells electronic bits. It is used for etching PCbs. Have a squint at Farnells or RS - usual disclaimer. |
Michael Cox 1 | 15/10/2010 19:01:03 |
555 forum posts 27 photos | Ferric chloride will attack the steel as well as the tap.
Mike |
TomK | 15/10/2010 20:53:11 |
83 forum posts 23 photos | Mick
Don't know if you have used 3 side stellite drills but they are not for faint hearted.
I have some from my days in working in a toolroom where we used them to modifiy tooling that had been case hardend. The process is what I would say brutal, I have used them up to1/2" dia. You have to run the drill at high speed 1000 rpm plus and have the job bolted down, then apply a great deal of pressure and keep it there until the work and the drill starts to glow red hot then the drill starst to cut through the steel like it is as soft butter. It is a local anealing process. I have used them to drill holes in HSS hacksaw blades. Also tried them on broken taps but not had much suscess. |
Steve Withnell | 15/10/2010 21:00:13 |
![]() 858 forum posts 215 photos | Unless there is a lot of work in the "piece of steel" toss it and start again. You can mess about for ever trying to get broken taps out. A tap in steel is particularly hard to resolve.
Unless of course you want to become expert at removing broken taps
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