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slitting saw woes

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wheeltapper10/06/2009 12:40:45
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424 forum posts
98 photos
Hi
I recently bought a slitting saw from company A with a spring loaded arbor.
on setting it up in my mill ( in a collet chuck ) I found that it ran off centre and only one or two teeth were cutting, the rest were just along for the ride.
 
at first I suspected the arbor so I made my own, turning it in a collet and making the diameter a snug push fit for the saw.
 
same result, chonk..chonk..chonk.
 
so I bought a saw from company B.
 
same result  chonk..chonk..
 
question, are all slitting saws crap or does someone out there sell decent ones
 
cheers
Roy
David Clark 110/06/2009 15:22:38
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3357 forum posts
112 photos
10 articles
Hi There
Try buying a recognised brand such as clarkson or dormer from Ebay.
They should be fine.
regards david
 
wheeltapper10/06/2009 17:38:23
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424 forum posts
98 photos
Hi
nice idea but they seem to be as rare as hens teeth
 
cheers
Roy
Steve White10/06/2009 23:35:51
11 forum posts
2 photos
Hi Roy, if it's any consolation, my milling cutters and slitting saws all do that on my Tom Senior horizontal mill. I thought it was the arbour so i made another one myself and had it running so true  could hardly measure the run out  -same result as you, chonk chonk! I hoped that every time I put a cutter on the arbour, it would be in a different position so any wear would even it self out.....hmmm, not sure.
Even so, it's a bit frustrating having all those teeth and only a few doing anything useful.
Incidentally, all my cutters are good quality but some are possibly resharpened as they are second hand.......
Best of luck
Steve
Jim Whetren11/06/2009 12:12:48
50 forum posts
1 photos
When I had the chonk..chonk.. problem with a 4" saw I was using to cut con rod strips from a piece of 3/8" plate, I used a Tinker jig to take a lick off the tip of each tooth.
This resulted in a satisfying zzzzzzzz.. when I used it again.
Whatever method is chooen to give the teeth a 'touch up', the important thing is to have the close running mounting boss stationary and rotate the blade around this using a piece of spring steel to index each tooth.
That way the teeth must be concentric with the bore.
 
I hope this helps
Jim
wheeltapper11/06/2009 13:18:46
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424 forum posts
98 photos
Hi guys
thanks for the replies.
 
I was beginning to think it was me, being a newbie to this game, but;
 
I just fitted a dial gauge to the milling machine bed and checked various things, total runout on the spindle is half a thou, its a chester conquest mill so I wasn't expecting miracles.
fitting the collet chuck and clocking the outside gave me half a thou so the chuck is OK.
 
fitting my home made saw arbor and checking that gave me 1 thou total runout.
 
fitting the saw , placing a feeler gauge tween tips and gauge and running veeeery slowly gave me a staggering 22 thou runout.
 
so its not me.
 
Jim,
thanks for the tip, I am making Harold Halls grinding rest at the moment so when that's finished I'll have a go.
 
I can't make them any worse can I
 
cheers
Roy
Steve White11/06/2009 22:54:40
11 forum posts
2 photos
Some good advice here, thanks Jim.
Roy, can you point me in the right direction for the grinding rest details please, is it an article in ME?  I think I'll have a go at it as well.
I've been at this game a few years, but not being a professional, I thought it was me also - I still do! I suppose it's best not to make assumptions.

Many thanks
Steve
wheeltapper12/06/2009 13:26:56
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424 forum posts
98 photos
HI Steve
the rest I'm making appeared in Model Engineers Workshop issue 109.
 
there is a slightly more complicated one, again by Harold, in MEW issue 89 but I'm not into complicated yet
 
can I post piccies on this forum?
I've got a photobucket account I use on other forums so I could show how I'm doing.
 
cheers
Roy
David Clark 112/06/2009 19:53:47
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3357 forum posts
112 photos
10 articles
HiThere
Harold Hall's tool rests have both been published in his books.
One was in his tool and cutter grinding book, and I think the other may have been in his complete milling book.
regards David
 
wheeltapper12/06/2009 21:05:39
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424 forum posts
98 photos
Hi
I just discovered I can have a photo album so I've put on some pics of my grinding rest .
 
I'm quite pleased with it for my first serious project.
 
cheers
the chuffed side of Roy
John Wood113/06/2009 11:27:56
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116 forum posts
Steve, Harold Hall's grinding rest is fully described in 'Tool & Cutter Sharpening' book which is number 38 in the Workshop Practice Series, many adverts available as well as www.specialinterestmodelbooks.co.uk
 
I have built this recently but find it perhaps a bit too comprehensive in that in an attempt to provide a table/rest to grind just about everything it makes it quite fiddly and laborious to use in some instances.  I normally wish to gring lathe tools quickly but it takes me all evening to do one.
 
Having now seen the grinding rest in the Myford Series 7 manual, the table of which extends both sides of the wheel, allowing tool grinding to be done very quickly and at the correct angles I reckon this would best suit my purposes.
 
Regards
John
Bizibilder20/06/2009 16:01:43
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173 forum posts
8 photos
Hi
I'm a bit late here as Jim Whetren has given the answer - sharpen in a jig on its own arbour or life is just clonk...clonk...clonk
Bizibilder
wheeltapper20/06/2009 18:39:22
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424 forum posts
98 photos
Can anyone tell me where I can get a 6" saucer wheel so I can grind it properly.
 
cheers
Roy
Jim Whetren30/07/2009 09:10:34
50 forum posts
1 photos
Hello Roy,
 
To sharpen saws on the Worden I used a diamond wheel from Arc Euro Trade.
 
D4BT9 15 Deg. Taper Page 22 of the catalogue.
 
This gave excellent results with such items requiring a fine edge to the grinding wheel, gashing end mills for instance.
 
Regards,
Jim
Ian S C30/07/2009 13:02:56
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7468 forum posts
230 photos
Spose'you could put the mandrill in the 4 jaw and center it,but then again t might not be round anyway.Ian s c

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