Member postings for Bizibilder

You also seem to be missing the entire jockey pulley assembly. This is a four step pulley that is mounted so it can swivel round the main pillar and give you all 8 speeds. There is a manual for the RF20 and 25 here: MANUAL that should help you as this is the "generic" machine type that you have.

Edited By Bizibilder on 05/09/2023 19:53:40

As said above they make superb scribers!

It is 3mm. I'm not certain but I believe 1/8" has been unavailable for many years.

Why not paint a test piece? It doesn't have to be very big but you must match the paint and painting/drying sequence that you intend to use. That way you can be sure of the results.

Those inches are centimetres! I also just noticed that they do both "reads left to right" and "reads right to left" versions as well as the "center zero" - so all bases covered.

Just spotted this LINK coming up in Lidl in a few days. A self adhesive flexible steel ruler one meter long. Could be used on a benchtop or on the front of a milling machine table for example (easy enough to cut it to length). One version is "centre zero" which may be particularly useful for this sort of application. On offer at 2 for £3 seems a no-brainer to me.

Also useful for sewing and other hobbies should brownie points be required

Try THIS calculator. put in 40 for the worm and all the plate holes you have, comma seperated. click update and you will have a table of all the possible divisions and all the impossible ones as well!!

Second for gun quoin - used to raise and lower the elevation of the barrel. For its size and the taper on the sides quite possibly from a ships canon? Try googling "gun quoin".

Edited By Bizibilder on 27/07/2023 16:19:27

The 40 deg pointed tool (number 3) is just right for making the grooves in pulleys to take poly "v" belts. Otherwise it is a tool for getting into tight places that other tools cannot reach.

As with windows - seven ate nine!!

M-Machine have both 3" and 3/4" listed at 10, 14 and 16 swg thickness if that helps.

Warco have a section for sales to educational establishments. I would give them a ring and see what they have to offer. Their machines are imports but are of good quality and they do have a good after sales service. (usual disclaimer). All machines have metric models available and inverter drives to give variable speeds. Don't take much notice of "out of stock" on their website. They will be able to advise you on stock and delivery over the phone. It maybe that a delivery is due immanently - they only put stock on the website when it is actually in their warehouse and unsold by pre-order (unlike some others who shall remain nameless!!).

Axminster are often a favoured supplier to schools and I'm not sure why - they are expensive and do not have good after sales service - the experience of 25 years in education and the thoughts of a D+T technician and teachers that I know well.

If you scroll down to page 18 of this old price list from 2005 you will see blue pivot steel in both metric and Stubbs wire gauge HERE worth downloading and keeping just for this!

Be careful in reducing the scale of the clock - you will have to adjust all the wheel module sizes (sizes of the teeth on the wheels and pinions) as well as the pendulum length and/or a complete redesign of the escapement. By the time you have bought all the cutters required (or made them yourself) you may find that this leads to a far greater overall cost to build than the price of the brass you will need for the original design. If you are careful you can make quite a few components from the left over brass from the great wheel after crossing out the spokes as well as all the offcuts from the frames. If you draw out the parts full size and cut them out as paper templates you can probably work out a reasonable efficient cutting pattern with a minimum of wastage.

Edited By Bizibilder on 27/04/2023 09:48:54

A quick google (I must have nothing to do!!   Shows the only available limits seem to be 7.5 t or 3 t. Therefore a bridge that would be safe for, say, a load of 20 t and would therefore no be strong enough for a 44ton lorry would still have to be restricted to 7.5 t.

Crazy system.

And i may well be wrong anyway.

It is an eyelet crimping tool - for fixing in the metal eyelets that you thread your shoelaces through as one example.

"Black polishing" is nothing to do with hardening or tempering. It is just a case of getting such a "perfect" polish that the steel appears to be black. This is usually achieved by polishing as well as you can and then going one stage further with diamantine and oil. Clickspring does a demo here Video look at the finish about 2m 04s into the video. (Yes, he does harden first! but this is not necessary.). He uses arkansas stone dust to get his first polish and the diamantine to get the black reflective finish.

Most likely it would be easiest to make your own t-nuts. I would turn drill and thread from round bar, saw or part off to length. Remount on a threaded mandrel and face of the bottom to thickness. Then mill or file two flats so they will slide into your t-slots. There is no need for extreme accuracy with t-nuts.

I found that I had to redrill the threaded holes in the wheelhead arms in order to attach the guide block when building my Bonelle - It seems that there are various cumulative errors that eventually don't quite add up! I had real trouble trying to find out why the thing didn't fit!! Additionally I had the problem that my 2" square iron bar for the wheelhead block (C4) was metric i.e. 50 mm square (rather than 2" or 50.8mm) and had also been cleaned up on all four sides making the actual dimensions even less by a few thou all round. Not really surprising that it did not fit off the drawings.

So far this is the only part that has not fitted after being machined straight from the drawings. I am currently building the toolholder and have worked through the drawing in more or less the order that they are set-out.

The only modification I have done is with the bellows and their attachments. I will be using commercial rubber bellows and have designed and machined a set of attachments to allow the bellows to rotate as the front bar is rotated - otherwise the bellows would twist and prevent free movement of the bar.

Just to add - Don't alter the guide block.  Just reposition the threaded holes used to secure it.  You will have problems if you alter the block.  There are two positions for the leadscrew in the wheelhead guide (C8) that can be used and both will fit if you simply reposition the holes for the block.

Edited By Bizibilder on 03/04/2023 15:35:17

Hi Fulmen - You will find that there are already metric plans/drawings for the Bonelle online. The thing to watch out for is that you get the latest version of the drawings (all those that I have found are OK but the latest has a few notes and one or two missing dimensions corrected.

The "Quorn owners group" on groups.io has the latest drawings and is a good resource of notes and pictures of various builds. Hope that helps. It is a good project but does take quite a while to build - as I am finding out .