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Member postings for Steve White

Here is a list of all the postings Steve White has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Fine finish on alloys
22/02/2011 23:20:25
Thanks Ramon, you gave me some ideas...
After trying various methods, including abrasive paper, in the end, I used a piece of metal rod, faced the end dead flat, polished it and put it in the chuck of my drill press on the lowest speed. With a small weight on the end of the drill down feed to give constant pressure and some fine grinding paste, I achieved a very good finish on the valve faces and the compressor works like new.
Something else learnt.
Steve
 
Thread: Solution to pianting problem?
21/02/2011 21:53:48
Hi Nigel,
I've just spotted this post and hope I can help for future painting sessions.
 
Painting is one of the trickiest tasks to master and I've learnt from over 40 years in the paint industry that it's not an exact science!
Bob is right, it takes a bit of practice and also time trying different techniques, paints, thinners etc, before one can become proficient.
If you are using fast drying thinners and spraying from too great a distance with too much air flow, the paint will be almost dry by the time it reaches the surface and the paint will not be liquid enough to flow out. Spray too close however and the surface will be disturbed by the air velocity and also you run the risk of getting too much on, too quickly.
The other aspect is the amount of thinners, too much and the paint will run, not enough and the paint will not atomise or break up causing yet more orange peel effect. Find a ratio of thinners and a spraying distance that works for you and stick to it. Another tip is to try and avoid spraying when the atmosphere is cold and/or damp. This will also affect the atomisation.
Try a blend of fast and slow thinners perhaps. Remember that not all paints are the same and what works for one might be different for another and here I'm talking about differences in the initial viscosity in the tin and also the solvent recipe.
Cutting back is something done in the days of car refinish cellulose finishes and it's certainly one way of getting a flat finish, the surface however can be far from glossy (depending on the hardness of the paint) and a wax polish is used to obtain a high gloss. You could use a thin coat of varnish instead, this would also protect the lining.
You don't say what sort of equipment you are using but with airbrush or a spray gun, take some time to get to know how changing the settings affects the spray pattern, paint/air volume etc.
I don't pretend to be an expert on painting models, achieving a good finish without hiding fine detail is an art that I still struggle to master. You could do worse than buy Chris Vines book "How not to paint a locomotive", It's full of useful advice and treats the painting process seriously as part of the model build and not just a quick finishing touch. I am sure that there is a lot of useful advice on the Internet as well.
 
Good luck, hope this helps
Steve
 
 
 
 
 

Thread: Fine finish on alloys
20/02/2011 21:38:15
Hello there, has anyone experience of achieving a fine finish on aluminium or light alloy?
I am renovating a small airbrush type compressor and the valve seats, which are recessed and cast into the head are corroded. I can achieve a flat finish on my vertical mill but the seats need to have a fairly good finish to make a seal with the metal shim "flapper" type valves and I am unable to get a surface totally free of machining marks.
Is there some way to grind or polish the alloy to a smooth finish?
I wonder if I could lap them flat with some grinding paste?
would high or low speed be best?
Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
 
(I am aware of the dangers of grinding aluminium having searched the net for some info- this is a small area about 10mm x 20mm).
 
thanks and regards
Steve W
Thread: Gauge Glass Valve
23/03/2010 23:33:38
Hi there Alan,just spotted your post.
sorry, I have no experience of tapered valves but could you fit an "O" ring or ptfe washer either side of the valve? Just a thought. It seems you are grinding in correctly.
 
I seem to remember some tiny water gauge fittings made by Roy Amsbury? and described in ME many years ago. I think they were parallel but fitted with  "O" rings internally.
I have read that to make small tapered cocks is difficult and once they are steam/watertight, they are too tight to turn!
 
I am sure others in the forum will have some good ideas -good luck.
regards
Steve
 
 
Thread: Selecting a size of boiler to a marine steam engine of known size..
23/03/2010 23:13:00
Hi there,
further to answers received on this topic, similarly, does anybody know how to correctly size the engine to the hull or vice versa (and prop)? 
 
after making a few live steam locomotives, I have a yeaning to build a model steam powered boat of some description, I fancy an Edwardian steam yacht and envisage sedate speed rather than planing!
Any ideas on sources for suitable boat plans?
 
Many thanks
Steve
Thread: Myford ML7 spindle removal/replacement
06/01/2010 21:29:51
Just a note to say that I've completed the rebuild of the Myford spindle pulley/gear assembly and as Meyrick says, it's not difficult. I was lucky, however, in that the pulley almost dropped off with it's own weight, it was that loose! A clean and a touch of Loctite and all's well.
I was surprised at the good condition of the bearings considering the age of the lathe, must be something to do with the fact that the oilers never completely shut off...
To anyone else with the problem, I can recommend the same cure.
Steve
13/12/2009 22:45:25
Many thanks for your advice, I'll give it a go and give the whole machine a once over while I'm at it.
regards
Steve
 
 
12/12/2009 21:35:00
Hi there, my trusty old Myford ML7 has developed a problem and I wonder if anybody can help me please?
After a few minutes use, the pulley starts to slip on the spindle and even though the countershaft is turning, the spindle slows to a halt during a cut.
Tony at the lathes.com site has advised me that the pulley has come loose and says that I should remove the pulley, clean it and replace it using some Loctite.
Has anybody done this? I am a bit worried that if I take everything to bits to rectify the problem, it won't go back together again without problems.
Will I have to reshim the bearings or something? How can I tell if all is well?
 
Many thanks in advance
Steve White
Thread: Why do I do it?!
18/11/2009 17:32:45
What a great thread, it has cheered me up. Well done Tony and others!
Hands up those, that after a half a dozen attempts at making a part, went back to the scrap box and used the one he made the first time round? Been there, done that.
My excuse is that when the model is finished, I will go back and rectify the less than perfect bits..........
Steve
Thread: slitting saw woes
11/06/2009 22:54:40
Some good advice here, thanks Jim.
Roy, can you point me in the right direction for the grinding rest details please, is it an article in ME?  I think I'll have a go at it as well.
I've been at this game a few years, but not being a professional, I thought it was me also - I still do! I suppose it's best not to make assumptions.

Many thanks
Steve
10/06/2009 23:35:51
Hi Roy, if it's any consolation, my milling cutters and slitting saws all do that on my Tom Senior horizontal mill. I thought it was the arbour so i made another one myself and had it running so true  could hardly measure the run out  -same result as you, chonk chonk! I hoped that every time I put a cutter on the arbour, it would be in a different position so any wear would even it self out.....hmmm, not sure.
Even so, it's a bit frustrating having all those teeth and only a few doing anything useful.
Incidentally, all my cutters are good quality but some are possibly resharpened as they are second hand.......
Best of luck
Steve
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