Stuck chuck tip

Hi all,

this is the way I get a stuck chuck off, works every time with minimal effort.

it’s sort of the same idea from Steve Jordan’s YouTube site.

just a small piece of metal with a holder on it that wedges in between the back gear bolt and the bolt at the bottom, the lever I clamp in the chuck is some sort of tyre iron I think that I’ve had for years.

thanks

chris m…..

A much better option than risking the gear teeth. If the back gear SHCS broke, it would be unlikely to be difficult to remove and replace. It wouldn't be wise for a super 7 owner to try a similar fix. After I saw the first of the 3D printed spindle locks on sale, I got a 20mm thick nylon plate and made a copy on the mill for the Atlas lathe, not as pretty, but very strong and it has to be slid sideways into position as the forces are spread over 13 teeth.

Gripping a piece of hexagon, attached FIRLMY, to along bar, in the 3 jaw chuck, with the belt tight,and given a hearty thump frees off the 6" chuck on my lathe. The same technique works with th 8" four jaw. The Headstock and motor usually provide enough inertia to slacken the screw on chuck.

This avoids the risk of damage to gears attached to using back gear to lock htings.

I have always heeded the advice nevr to spin on under power. Even screwing on fast, by hand, can cause a chuck to stick.

If a chuck is sticky to screw on, it suggests dirty or damaged threads, so I always check the internal and external threads are clean before attempting to unite them. A clean redundant tooth brush is an ideal implement for the task of cleaning the threads and register.

Howard

Myford Super 7 alr eady has a Spindle Lock on the left hand side of Headstock

Absolutely and I wonder how many S7 owners don’t realise it’s there.

regards Martin

There is a risk with using a hex-ended tool to turn the chuck in this way - the load on the scroll which tightens the chuck jaws is always on the same section of the scroll. If the srcoll is damaged (as well it might be if the chuck really is tight) you will have problems when you tighten, or loosen, the jaws from this position. And the contact area against each jaw is fairly small, so distortion is likely.

With this design of chuck, with no bolt heads sticking out front or back, it is not easy to suggest an alternative method -sorry.

Cheers, Tim

With this design of chuck, with no bolt heads sticking out front or back, it is not easy to suggest an alternative method -sorry.

A large adjustable on a vise jaw should suffice for a chuck that is just too tight, to undo by hand.

Hi, What about making a tool similar to an oil filter wrench but with a longer chain to go round main body of chuck.Not tried this myself but might work.

Hope this helps

Maurice

On my chucks i have a notch in the back plate for a C spanner. This means all load is on the back plate and not the chuck when screwing or unscrewing it. This also means that my chuck always runs true within a thou when I put a round but of material in.

A tap with a small mallet and any chuck is unscrewed in this way and no load on the chuck or mounting screws between chuck and back plate or between scroll and jaws.

https://youtu.be/dAKwajNSNic

(Sorry about mirror image video I did that when prossesing video and do not have the knowledge to reverse it.)

David