Babbitt metal

Hi

I am considering making the bearings for my latest engine from babbit

I am thinking of casting two half round and soldering them together for machining

My question is can I solder babbitt or is the melting point too close to the solder melting point

Thanks in advance

Dougie

Now there’s a question, Dougie

The answer is … it will depend which one !!

No, I am not trying to be funny

Wikipedia will explain: **LINK**

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Babbitt_(alloy)

MichaelG.

Well that was eye opening

Thanks Michael

Can you hold the two halves of the bearing together with the bearing bolts and then machine them?

Super Glue?

Another way would be to make two bearings, bore them and cut them in two with a hacksaw offset from the centre and then filing or milling the bigger one of each back to the centreline.

Suggest a mechanical jig to hold the bits for machining, rather than soldering. Better yet forget the babbitt and go with SAE 660 bronze bushings, or cast iron bushings.

Plus one for superglue I have used it and it works well (keep cool).

In my experience Babbit or white metal is usually backed by steel or something rigid as it is very soft. The Co. I used to work for made them in all sizes from about 25mm to 600mm diameter, both split halves and unsplit, all for use in their gearboxes.

Do you already have some babbitt or whitemetal? If not expect eye watering prices. I purchased some a few years ago to make a steering nut.

Martin

Thanks for the replies

I have got some babbit, that's what made me think about the bearings, but I think I will probably stick with bronze

Dougie

Babbit bearings, in my experience, have been supported within a steel structure - generally cast in situ and then machined.

The supporting material can be clamped, glued, soldered? (carefully). Perhaps I’ve only come across larger bearings of this type, but that is generally the way it is done. Shimmed bearing halves so that they can be scraped, and shims removed, to adjust the bearings for fit/wear.

Something of interest are my Austin Seven two bearing conrods with cast in place bearing material.
Crank bearings are 1.3/8” diameter.

Considering age of car these are in nigh on perfect condition, other than the oil retaining ‘pits’.
No idea what has caused thise.

Geoff - Feeling somewhat human again

Edited By OuBallie on 06/09/2022 14:05:45

I have four rods, for a 2 3/4” crank, needing to be re-metalled. Doubt I will ever get round to it as I have a good set of mains and rods. Unless needed, the 20kg of white metal can remain as two cast cylindrical lumps of metal.

When I had to rebuild my 73 year-old tractor, about 35 years ago, all I had to do was remove shims from between the con-rod and end-cap. Max crankshaft speed was only 1125rpm and it had only been worked hard for about 15 years on a 150 acre farm.

Nice to hear you feeling better.

regards Martin