Member postings for Henry Brown

When I bought my new GH1322 I went for 3 phase because they were £600 cheaper than 240V single phase which gave me lots of change even after buying an inverter, a cabinet and the additional wiring.

I went to Inverter Drive Supermarket Ltd, their Peter Symonds was very helpful with the wiring changes as he knows these machines well and was able to recommend the right kit for the job. He provided me with marked circuit diagrams after I sent him copies of those in the handbook that comes with the machine.  It wasn't difficult to do and although I don't use the variable speed of the inverter I'd recommend you speak with Peter as he is a mine of information.

Edited By Henry Brown on 23/08/2023 17:34:38

What surprises me is the amount of lathes I see without chuck guards. I always use mine because it has interlocks to prevent the machine from starting if its up/open and with a slight clip-on mod is very good at keeping hot swarf chips from burning my hands. I don't use suds but if I did the chuck guard would be another bonus.

I bought a second hand demonstrated working Canon for £30 from someone local on fb marketplace, I figured it was worth the gamble, and it still print perfectly two years on...

I vaiguley remember using an Allen Scythe years ago for general grass cutting and bramble removal in my uncles orchard, a bit of a beast of a thing but it did the job...

High load helical and spur gears and those that act as timing gears, as in printing presses etc, tend to have the tooth flanks ground after hardening. That would be pretty difficult with that type of tooth!

The double helical toothed gears that were made by the company I worked for (Allen Gears) always had a groove between the teeth to allow the grinding wheel to run out at the end of its pass. The slight addition in length wasn't an issue and gave the oil a path to escape. Their main product was epicyclic gears, the fact that the thrust load was cancelled out by helical gears with opposing left and right hand teeth was ideal for that use.

A previous comment mentioned Sykes gear shaping machines, there were a few of those when I was at Allens, they were gradually phased out as faster and more accurate machines became available, they were mainly used to cut spur coupling teeth.

That's how I wired mine, lots of info on the web as well...

Or get a set of Stevenson Collet Blocks? No octagonal option though...

Stevenson's ER32 Collet Blocks - Arc Euro Trade

Depends what main board you have but you could change the drivers to TMC2208 or 2209, they make the motors quieter, I printed some holders for half squash balls, the printer sits on them on the dining table, that is ok for watching the TV in the same room with out an enclosure.

My understanding of TL smoothers is to improve finish on the printed part, modern mainboards and drivers tend to make them redundant.

Some folk use a flat paving slab as a base but I found the half squash balls are ok.

Edited By Henry Brown on 30/04/2023 19:12:04

Have a look for an Axminster SX4 made by SIEG, second habd one might fit the bill...

I also won't buy from UK drills, their quality is at best unreliable. I've found Toolstation drills to be pretty good...

Some good suggestions above!

I remember we occasionally had to do changes some linen drawings, it was a nightmare especially if had already been modified. A lot of linen drawings were given to apprentices to trace and when they were signed off we used to wash the coating off in hot soapy water to make lovely soft dusters, anyone esle do that?

I'd be asking how the machine shop of choice was going to mount and clamp the table, this will be critical, you don't want to make it worse than it is by using someone who isn't familiar with this type of work.

Hate flashing adverts, never respond to them for that reason.

Please turn it off, it looks like something a 10 year old has done which makes it worse.

Edited By Henry Brown on 12/04/2023 11:39:07

I have a similar SOBA tool from RGD, it came with the angled slotted knurls as your first pix. When I ordered it I also ordered a set of fine wheels from RDG, both work fine on steel, ali and brass. Put a bit of 3in1 oil on the wheels to keep them running smoothly...

It looks like you haven't quite got the wheels square to the job by the witness marks on the wheels.

When I was on the handles we only used 4 jaw chucks for big work where large depth of cut/high feed was used, 3 jaw chucks were occasionally used for light work and capstans for round and hex repetition stuff. The 120" chuck on the Webster & Bennett vertical borer that they had only used 4 jaws or the chuck was used as a faceplate.

I can't remember seeing 6 jaws in the UK workshops I've been in and as Hopper says they are only really any use for good symetrical stock if they work on the scroll mechanism that most 3 jaw chucks have.

Edited By Henry Brown on 23/03/2023 10:52:39

I had a windows update the light before last and my usually fast laptop is rubbish at the moment. Broadband speed is ok, I'm assuming it is something to do with the update...

Thanks Neil, hope it goes well, looking forward to adventures anew...

Well done that man! What a great result from all those hours, the tractor looks the part and Fred seems rather pleased with his machine...

I've enjoyed your documentation of the project and am in awe of your dedication and the outcome, thank you so much for sharing...

Looking forward to the next one, regards, Henry.

I may be inrterested Richard, where are you please?