Scheppach Bandsaw Portable

Hi All, majorly amateur / new to all this so please bare that in mind.

I have one of these:

**LINK**

Im using it to cut various metal rods into 8mm thick discs. My problem is that I’m left with around 2 inches of rod and I want to be able to cut this down to the last 1cm. The issue being that the vice / clamp is rubbish. Does anyone have any tips on how I can improve this by extending it closer to the saw and perhaps also making it more rigid?

A subsidiary clamp that takes 8mm and can hold it closer to the blade? Depends on what facilities you have, but a bit of bar with an 8mm hole in the end at least 10mm deep with a set-screw from the side to clamp the bar could work?

Drill a 8.1mm hole through a length of 20mm or so square/round bar set that in the jaws and push your rod through as required. You could drill & tap through the guide for a clamp screw if you feel one is required.

regards

What is the distance between blade and vise? Thst dimension might help to make suggestions.

Are you placing a similar sized bar at the other end of the vise?

I don’t think I’ve explained myself very well, apologies for that.

So the bar is 25-30mm diameter.

The blade is currently around 1 inch away from the vice.

So the last cut I can make leaves me with about 2 inches of the rod.

I’m left with 2 inches, partly because the blade distance from vice but also because the vice is unbalanced, you need to leave a lot on the vice or it creates like a V , the wide part holding the material.

I want to be able to make 8mm cuts right down until I only have 1cm left of the rod.

You can balance the vice by clamping an offcut in the other side, may help a little, or if you have the facilities perhaps make a set of long, shallow "v blocks" to go in the vice and give you the required stick out.

Or buy longer stock so less ends per useful cut, using another vice or clamp to support the free end of the bar so it doesn't push out upwards.

Edit - thinking a bit more, you want something similar to a woodworkers mitre box, maybe a bit of aluminium channel and some additional clamps?

Edited By Adrian R2 on 23/01/2022 11:52:33

I have only once needed to do something similar and I managed with a type 2 precision tool vice from Arc Eurotrade held in the saw vice and a toolmakers cramp to add some vertical security - but a definite bodge and one I hope not to have to repeat..

..or keep all the scrap ends and make a chess set..

Just fit two plates to the existing vice using the screws already there, fit a jack screw if you think you need one.

Cuts 30 mm steel with little waste.

Hi Andrew, I have the same machine, and you are right, it is annoying. But there is a quick fix.

On the fixed side of the vice - just turn the piece of sheet metal around - and you are there. Probably you need to grind away 1 or 2 mm from the edge not to touch the saw blade (This is what I needed to do)

on the movable side of the vice I grabbed a piece of rather thick sheet metal I had in the bits box and screwed it to the existing jaw (of course you need a few holes and thread them n the existing part)

If somebody asks why the additional jaw doesn't reach the end of the original jaw - I said the part used is from the bits box and I didn't have any other, longer part. On the next photo you see that you are almost touching the sawblade. So - problem fixed, took me about one hour to do it.

By the way I do love the saw, after a proper set-up it saws absolutely 90 degrees to the vice. This allows me to go close to the final dimension I need and this helps saving time (less filing or milling...)

Edited By Gerhard Novak on 23/01/2022 12:20:08

Just saw Ian did the same - well this may tell you it's the right thing to do!

I made up this for the FEMI from a spare vice. I am about to make some higher jaws with a groove in them for round stock.

Edited By Peter Ellis 5 on 23/01/2022 14:08:21

Photo not appearing

Edited By Peter Ellis 5 on 23/01/2022 14:09:51

Andrew, for when small parts are being clamped, besides extending the vice jaw[s], as others have suggested, you can add a jaw stop on the far side of the fixed jaw to keep the moveable jaw parallel at all times.

My jaw stop is M8, and both the cap that bears aganst the moveable jaw and the brass thumb wheel are removeable for when I don't need the stop or when I want to fit a longer M8 rod.

Nice idea Bill, something to add to mine.

all sounds a bit risky.....different if it was an expensive metal....

the vice looks a bit flimsey for short overhang use....

a one off perhaps but not a reg job....

how much is a new blade when it all gets tangled up....?

I reg cut up 6inch round bar and bigger on a big band saw and accept the last little bit as waste (or used in the lathe)....

A new blade is approx 15£, as there is nothing flimsy or wobbly I do not see the problem of braking the blade...

Max cutting diameter of this saw is 5 inch.

These are brilliant! Thank you all.

And for those say buying longer rods for less waste or just scrap them etc. at £20/cm I can’t afford that and want a fast solution rather than using a hand saw. Plus some of these pieces only come 200mm long when purchased.

At what height do you propose making this groove? Would need not need to be so wide (for different diameters of bar) that it would effectively end up as a flat surface? I would not fancy cutting with the bar not on the flat of the vise.

Crikey,at £2/mm what are you cutting.? If it’s that expensive silver solder or epoxy the stub onto a piece of bar and hold that in the vice.

Blades are about £30 for 3 from Tuffsaws and they’re excellent quality but I see they’re not taking any orders at present as they’re too busy!