Member postings for Andrew Steward

Im not being argumentative, I’m naive and know it! Before I bought tooling I read up on it and concluded carbide inserts would be best…. But now I’m reading the above. Have I made an error? Are HSS generally better or only if you are experienced enough to sharpen them yourself?

sorry for high jacking the thread

Thank you everyone!

I make glue…

wooden splints, cheap as chips and not as bad as plastic, just throw them away.

as someone else said, glue is sticky.

when dry / cured you may be able to peel it from the Teflon but no just don’t do it.

Is this the type of thing suggested?

https://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/dx1000-fine-filter-45-litre-extractor--hplv#.Ye7heGjP2LI

Thank you everyone!

I will be doing the odd bit of everything, bench sander, pillar drill, lathe, sawing.

I would like something I can move the hose to.

The material that concerns me is carbon fibre.

Hi,

Does anyone have any experience with dust extraction? I am considering purchasing this, i have a limited budget due to the number of tools I am having to buy so I don't want anything fancy but its pointless purchasing something that simply doesn't work.

Any recommendations greatly received.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-ha1600-1150m-hr-brushless-electric-dust-extractor-230v/65112?kpid=65112&ds_kid=92700055256569560&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=Cj0KCQiAubmPBhCyARIsAJWNpiO6k3jIfFupVA7ex26u7qkkBK4ybz-D9Yv7du_xIDpOJT0JdXOl_0oaAvQzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Fascinating to read how knowledgeable you all are on adhesives! I'm the technical director of an adhesive company. Unfortunately not for adhesives along these lines.

Natural Rubber is very hard to bond. Typically done with cyanoacrylate (which is why everyone keeps suggesting it) and not a lot else.

I believe you are going to need a primer. If you coat the natural rubber with a thin layer of cyanoacrylate and let it dry your question then becomes how do I bond cyanoacrylate to ABS, then the answer is use a two part epoxy and clamp it hard (use the loctite plastic bonder). Use an ultra thin superglue and that should give you a really neat coating. if you can coat the rubber before cutting to shape you would get a great coating. you wouldn't need to apply much of the epoxy, thinner the layer of the adhesive the better, you just want good coverage.

Any tape (and we supply the adhesive on tapes) will creep fail over time, whilst the unika tape is very strong, there is no real weight (stress) being applied on a worktop edge.

If you are actually planning on these two pieces of ABS being bent back and forth then you need something that dries hard.

Sanding / scratching the surface of the rubber / ABS will help greatly.

Just a heads up that there is a lot of marketing going on with adhesives. For example superglue for metal, is the same thing just a different tube as superglue for plastic and the same trick is played for "epoxy resin for X". You sell more when you make it very clear what it can be used for. That said... there are different types of epoxies, the curing system used can make a difference (this is clearly stated on the tube).

A lot of the cheap stuff comes from india and rusts, whilst visually the same, its not chemically the same!

Damasteel, timascus and some plastics that I am making myself (Im a polymer chemist) due to their unusual properties. Yes you can buy cheaper timascus and damascus but they are not suitable for purpose.

If throwing money at it was an option I wouldn’t be posting here. Hopefully one day I will be able to buy a better saw.

Thanks also for the tip about tuffsaw.
I was just about to ask if anyone had recommendations for blades for this bandsaw?
and whilst I think of it, am I meant to adjust tension in the blade? Is tighter better?

These are brilliant! Thank you all.

And for those say buying longer rods for less waste or just scrap them etc. at £20/cm I can’t afford that and want a fast solution rather than using a hand saw. Plus some of these pieces only come 200mm long when purchased.

I don’t think I’ve explained myself very well, apologies for that.

So the bar is 25-30mm diameter.

The blade is currently around 1 inch away from the vice.

So the last cut I can make leaves me with about 2 inches of the rod.

I’m left with 2 inches, partly because the blade distance from vice but also because the vice is unbalanced, you need to leave a lot on the vice or it creates like a V , the wide part holding the material.

I want to be able to make 8mm cuts right down until I only have 1cm left of the rod.

Hi All, majorly amateur / new to all this so please bare that in mind.

I have one of these:

**LINK**

Im using it to cut various metal rods into 8mm thick discs. My problem is that I’m left with around 2 inches of rod and I want to be able to cut this down to the last 1cm. The issue being that the vice / clamp is rubbish. Does anyone have any tips on how I can improve this by extending it closer to the saw and perhaps also making it more rigid?

Hi David,

Many thanks for the response, I obviously didn’t make my predicament clear.

I’m more concerned about the best value for money than I am about how much I spend. I just don’t understand what the additional cost is getting me. The Axminster just seems over priced for no real reason but am I wrong?

is the warco worth the extra £68 over the sieg and if so why?

Then finally, why would I want any of them when I can get a lathe of similar size for less money from amadeal?

Im told they are “all the same” from a book called “mini lathes”. But that doesn’t look to be the case.

So I have read the "mini-lathe" book cover to cover and am looking to purchase my first miini lathe.

I actually purchased a second hand one but it didn't work and so gave it back and have decided new is the best policy.

The primary purpose is to progress my jewelry hobby (specifically rings).

There are a plethora of them on sale at different prices all with some subtle differences. The mini-lathe book tells me they are all made by chinese manufacturers and are all pretty much the same. I'm trying to keep the cost down but there is no point buying something that wont do what I need it to. As you will see from my options below, I am well and truly confused. Does anyone have any advice for me?

The axminster C2-300 at £638.95 seems expensive with a 250W motor.

The Warco super minit lathe, with its 100mm chuck, 450W brushless all metal design at £668 looks good but is pushing my budget that bit too far.

The Sieg SC2 for £600 with a 500W brushless motor seems like a very good option (from arc eurotrade) however I have also found the following:

**LINK**

It has a 600W motor, all metal gear, digital control, weighing in at an impressive 68Kg but at just £535... makes me wonder if the precision will be crap?

Then there is Amadeal with there lathe packages:

**LINK**

The lathe for which appearsa to be something you can buy from mltiple places on ebay for as little as £430 and reads as perfectly acceptable for my needs.

**LINK**

I'm the technical director of a company that makes pressure sensitive adhesives, including those for automotive applications.

The problem with any PSA is that it will be prone to creep. If there is a constant pull on the adhesive it will eventually fail. The time frame over which this will occur will depend on the strength of the pull as well as the adhesive. Aluminium foil could be held on with pretty much any permanent PSA as it will provide very little strain. Baking it in an oven will completely change the properties.

PSA adhesives will never set.

I would be happy to advise if you PM me.