Rik Shaw | 09/09/2021 11:15:53 |
![]() 1494 forum posts 403 photos | My eyesight is not as good as it was when I installed 4x fluorescent ceiling mounted strip lights some years ago in the workshop so I intend buying one of these 30w jobs (or similar) to fix to the ceiling and brighten up the bench area. I have already tried a 10w version but it needs to be brighter. I think a 50w unit might be a bit OTT. I can have it in cool white or warm white – not sure which to choose for best results. Any recommendations? The flood will be sighted as indicated at top LH corner of pic and will need to illuminate the bench area to the right of my bar stool. Rik |
pgk pgk | 09/09/2021 11:27:36 |
2661 forum posts 294 photos | I once went overboard with installing strip lights in a small operating room which lead to headaches from the heat and glare. LED strips would avoid the heat and it may well be that your tubes are aged and not as efficient as when new. Have you considered a head mounted lamp with/without magnifier? pgk |
Dave Halford | 09/09/2021 11:32:36 |
2536 forum posts 24 photos | It's surprising just how much difference you get by painting the ceiling white. The cheaper foil plastic bubble insulation rolls are even better. |
Bob Stevenson | 09/09/2021 12:01:37 |
579 forum posts 7 photos | +1 for Dave's suggestions.....
At my clock club (EFHC) we have just recently replaced all of the flourescent tubes with LED tubes....it was straightforward conversion neding just the removal/bypass of the units own wiring. The light is vastly better/brighter and electical consumption about one quarter or previous. The tubes we chose are 'daylight' being about 6,400 degrees K....no flickering, no headaches, no humming, just clean, wide, even white illumination.
Working at home, I have for the past 18 months been using LED 'pearl' bulbs which have ES 25mm fit caps and would never go back to tungsten, especially not halogen. In fact, I have thrown away all lamps, lights and anything with an uneven or specular light throw....it's plain white daylight colour, flat lighting from now on and MUCH better it is!
For demanding turning jobs I put the pearl bulb ovefr the work and a piece of white paper on the bed of the lathe immediately under the workpiece.....surface detail is clear and edge profile also easily watched etc. Daylight light is the best for me as any 'colour' tends to upset my old eyes by converting the workpiece colour and spoiling my tired view. Edited By Bob Stevenson on 09/09/2021 12:04:22 |
colin hamilton | 09/09/2021 12:25:47 |
186 forum posts 94 photos | There is a really good article on workshop lighting on this site. Have a look in the setting up a workshop section of the worshop tab and it's in there. |
Dave Halford | 09/09/2021 12:30:25 |
2536 forum posts 24 photos | As Bob,I find warm white = dull, fine for watching tv and low blue is good for bed time, but the detail seems less to me for a workshop. |
Frances IoM | 09/09/2021 12:55:05 |
1395 forum posts 30 photos | cold white is better I think for workshop use - if you get dimmable LED lighting then you can adjust over a significant range. My own preference is for LED panels 600x600mm you could get 2 in place of the single tube light; mount in a surface mount tray about half the height of that fitting - the LED driver sits on top of the panel in the tray - make them individually switched |
Martin Kyte | 09/09/2021 13:01:00 |
![]() 3445 forum posts 62 photos | I think you should be considering some worklights in addition to your background lighting. With ceiling lights you are always going to shadow the work to an extent. Have a experiment with some adjustable lights on stalks around your vice area. Really you need light in front of you when working on a piece in the vice or on the bench. For illuminating scribed lines when cutting in the vice a small metal mirror on an adjustable stalk works well. You just move it around until the reflected light catches the line just right. For more general lighting I have had good results in my kitchen with LED panels like these
A couple where you are thinking of the flood light may suit better, they are far more diffuse as they generate light from a much greater area. What you don't want is a mix of very bright areas and much darker areas. Really bright compact lights do tend to generate a lot of glare from reflections. Hope some of these thoughts are usefull to you. regards Martin |
Martin Kyte | 09/09/2021 13:05:52 |
![]() 3445 forum posts 62 photos | Posted by Dave Halford on 09/09/2021 12:30:25:
As Bob,I find warm white = dull, fine for watching tv and low blue is good for bed time, but the detail seems less to me for a workshop. Blue is the last thing you need before bed, it disturbs your sleep wake cycle by messing with the melatonin expression delaying the onset of drowsyness. regards Martin |
Brian Baker 1 | 09/09/2021 13:38:44 |
![]() 229 forum posts 40 photos | Greetings, I recently had all the fluorescent fittings replace with LED tubes, which is a big improvement, with much reduced running costs. Well worth doing. Regards BrianB |
Graham Meek | 09/09/2021 15:25:14 |
714 forum posts 414 photos | One thing that is well worth a consideration is having a chat with your optician. I had better add I deal with a local family firm. I had lens put into my safety spec's which were tailored to my workshop requirements. Normal everyday glasses are for seeing the No 51 bus coming away off. In the workshop the furthest thing away from me is a maximum of 2 m. Thus my main safety spec's are adjusted for this distance which gave a chance to improve the Varifocal close-up portion. Until I asked the question I was unaware that these lenses are available in two standard ranges. These new glasses made such an improvement that I asked if he could do another pair which were for bench work with a focal range of about 300-350 mm. I can now sit at my workbench and see things a lot clearer. Without the need for magnifiers and illuminated lens, which I had been using before. Regards Gray, Edited By Graham Meek on 09/09/2021 15:26:40 |
Henry Brown | 09/09/2021 15:47:07 |
![]() 618 forum posts 122 photos | I went over to cool light LED tubes about a year ago, I have two on from the light switch and a third and fourth that I can switch on/off independently once the first two are on if needs be. I do have LED lights on both the lathe and mill, in fact I could do with a second on the mill to eliminate shadow, I did the conversion to the existing fittings, a straightforward job as the tube came with a dummy starter and uses pretty much all the existing wiring. Well worth doing! |
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.