lathe knurling tool

Hello all. Please could you share with me some of your valuable knowledge on this skill, I’ve had a warco 180 delivered and totally new to this, have been watching you tube vids and thought I’d try to make brass handles for the lathe as a start project.

Could someone advise what lathe knurling tool I need to buy as there is so many and ones with more wheels than some

I appreciate you taking the time to help a newcomer to this skill set

kind Rgds

dale

Basically 3 types (someone will be along soon to tell me I'm wrong).
1. Push in
2. Clamp
3. Cut

For a small lathe such as the WM180 probably better with the Clamp type as it imposes less strain on the bearings. The cut type are good but seethingly expensive. Have a look at this one from ** ArcEuroTrade **

This article on making ** toolmakers clamps ** covers knurling in a bit more detail, about half way down the page.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 07/03/2021 17:16:53

Why not make one, if you have some stock metals about there is plans for one in Harold Halls 'Lathework a complete coarse'. I think its workshop practice series no 34

There are plenty of other interesting projects in the book too.

Jon

I bought scissor type and have good results from my WM180, didn't need to mill part of the holding bar though

Recommend starting with soft material to practice on with lubricant, for me knurling is a confidence thing so I start with light clamp then tighten until I achieve the result I am aiming for

An easy begiinners job is to replace the hand-dial knobs, plenty of operations to build confidence, I did mine in brass

Thank you for your replies.

Andy what size brass blanks did you buy / use for the handles.

I had some brass offcuts lying around so used those, IIRC the handles ended up ~20mm in diameter, much more tactile than the originals not just because of the knurl, but also because of the diameter

**THIS** pdf describes a clamp type knurling tool that I designed and made many years ago. It gives full details and dimensions. It works well and I've used it many times.

That looks like a beauty. The side plates look as though they would stop the problem of the two arms flexing out of line under heavy loading etc. Thanks for posting.

Jon hill 3 thank you for advising on the books I’ve purchased both of them on Amazon,

Andy carruthers looked on eBay for some brass blanks can’t get over how expensive they are, think I’ll be going with aluminium lol.

thanks again for all your post.

Gary, very similar to the MARLCO which industry loved , I made the Hemingway version and have never looked back. Think it’s all down to the large side cheeks.

.

Nicely designed, and very clearly presented, Gary ... Thanks for sharing it.

MichaelG.

Just a small point, what do you intend to knurl? If you plan to make new handwheels for the lathe, bear in mind that knurling may be very uncomfortable on the hands after a short while as the surface can be rather sharp. Knurling is ideal for small knobs that aren't often adjusted, but with machine handwheels it can be better to have a smooth polished surface on both the wheel periphery and the handle. A nice rotating handle with minimal play is even nicer.

Hi, I have one similar to Knurling Tool I may have even got my one from them, but it was so long ago I can't remember, however it has worked satisfactory for my needs.

Regards Nick.

John makes a good point, I recall someone (Hopper?) suggesting to run a file over the finished knurl to take the rough edges off, it has been a while since I made the handles

Indeed it was. Was how apprentice toolmakers were taught to do it back in the ancient days of yore. A 10" flat single-cut mill file was the weapon of choice, used on the finished knurl spun in the lathe. Just enough to knock the sharp points and burrs off the knurls. Should be done as a matter of course on all knurling. Straight knurling works very well on things like cross slide dials and is easier again on the hands, after a touch up with the fine file. If you don't file it, a diamond knurl is basically like a rasp and I reckon you could use it to machine wood.

Likewise I often notice homemade tool posts, cross slides, dividing heads and the like made from chucks of bright mild steel square bar with all the sharp corners left on, just waiting to smash knuckles and hands of the unwary. A few minutes to file a nice radius along each edge where two faces meet makes it all a lot more user-friendly. The bigger the radius, the more user friendly it is. Sharp corners always look half-done to me.

Edited By Hopper on 08/03/2021 10:55:53

And when you say "handles", do you mean the handwheels or the bits that stick out? If the wheels, then they are pretty large diameter and you'd need a very big scissors/clamp type knurl that probably wouldn't fit the lathe! If the stick-out bits, if they already rotate, they don't need knurling.

I have both clamp and push in types. Almost invariably the clamp type is used.

This is equipped to give a diamond knurl.

The push in one is for straight knurls, and is only rarely used, and then in gentle steps, out of regard for the Headstock bearings..

As an Apprentice I was told to use no more than 0.010" ( 0.25 mm) depth., and have always this quite sufficient.

If you overdo things when making adjusting screw, the work can shear off!

Howard

I bought this unit awhile ago as part of a load of coventry die heads. It is like a 3jaw chuck but with knurling jaws. Not used it yet and I'm assuming it is production gear and cost many shekels. Any comments on it's use ? Noel