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Member postings for jon hill 3

Here is a list of all the postings jon hill 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: surface finish flycutter or shell mill on lathe?
02/08/2023 22:14:05

Hi Jason

I hadnt considered holding the work in the chuck because of the size and weight. the blank is approx 3.15" squared x 1" thick. I think I was a bit terrified of holding it in the 4 jaw and have never used a face plate.

Would I get a similar finish in the 4 jaw or face plate?

02/08/2023 19:23:47

Hi all

I am trying to build a fingerplate 3" square x 7/8" from a piece of hot rolled steel following clip spring's example. However I dont have a rugged milling machine so its down to the 3 1/4" speed 10 lathe.

Im looking to get a reasonable surface finish from either a flycutter such as Myfordboys back plate cutter or an off the shelf carbide shell mill.

I will probably use the vertical slide, which solution might give a better finish?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-iVLgILSFY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgBM-JVRWgU

Thread: Axminster 300w horizontal bandsaw noises
02/08/2023 16:17:57

Hi Brian

my saw has 4 bearings each end, in pairs one on top of the other and 1 above, so 9 total. Possible overkill, and yes a few of the bearings are seized. I found some on ebay for £10 generic or just short of £20 for some branded.

02/08/2023 14:58:10

I tweaked the ecentric pin on the roller bearing on the motor end and this has reduced the noise considerably. It seems that the blade was falling off the top roller bearing. Thanks Martin W

All I have to do know is cure the 1/2 degree horizontal cut, at the moment I can live with it.

By the way are cheap bearings the way to go for the guides or better quality such as skf? Bearings are 607zz of which 9 are required.

Thread: Evolution TCT blade
02/08/2023 12:15:17

Hi Dave, I dont know what sort of model engineering you do.... Perhaps if your interested in building a 1/4 scale Sherman tank replica or need to chomp through largish lumps of steel from the scrap yard? They do make quite nice flush cuts in quick time compared to a horizontal bandsaw.

However it is difficult to make a case for buying one for cutting 1/2 steel bar or similar.

Buy the way I cant claim the fame for building any large scale tank models, but perhaps some day in the future.

Jon

01/08/2023 23:38:56

It was an evolution chop saw, most likely the mitre saw and my chop saw have similar universal motors. Mine runs at high speed but I didn't force the blade, so yes slow down feed. Got through plenty of coolant, but no red hot shavings thankfully.

I have no ideas on blade life as I don't use it much on account of the noise.

img_20230801_221104_1.jpg

01/08/2023 22:30:56

I use the evolution rage blades, I recently cut a 3" x3" large slab of 1" hot rolled steel. Most probably some sort of carbon steel as the laser cut edge seemed hardened, (scrapyard offcuts). Anyway with plenty of wd40 and a slow cut it made a nice job. Made all the difference when I tried my fly cutter on the myford. Strickly speaking the blade is on rated at 6mm for steel but the unconventional blade pattern seems to prevent stalling or grabbing issues.

Thread: Axminster 300w horizontal bandsaw noises
30/07/2023 12:10:28
Posted by Brian Wood on 30/07/2023 08:36:26:

Hello Jon,

Your saw is a much younger development from mine, bought perhaps 20 years ago or more from Axminster, it has been through the mill so to speak in correcting bad workmanship, poor fits, running faults and so on.

The usual way of tracking odd noises is to eliminate likely causes. Start by removing the saw blade and running the motor and drive on their own. Check there is oil in the reduction gearbox. Ease the blade guides to allow the blade to slide freely.

I aligned the blade guides by a tensioned wire instead of the blade, I suspect yours are slotted rather than ball bearings in my case which needed machining to correct the unmachined cast faces that relied on screw pressure to hold them together, but the guiding effects will be equivalent.

It could well sound better after such laying on of hands.

Regards Brian

Hi Brian, in the manual the lubrication specifies grease in the nipple for the reduction gearbox just behind the master pulley. Hopefully the translation/ pics are correct and they haven't done a Myford!

Surprisingly it does have roller bearings to guide the blade, 9 of them. 2 either side of the blade and another set at the other end, plus one top bearing to support the blade. I might have a rummage and see if I have anything suitable to replace them, I dont recall if they where ever replaced. Some of the guide bearings are seized, but most work better after some fettling.

Thanks Ady, I might check out the motor housing next, see if there are any worn bearings.

Will check your suggestions Martin, thanks

29/07/2023 23:16:48

img_20230729_214202_1.jpgHaving tuned up my axminster ue-127dv1 so it cuts reasonably straight I now have an unidentified irregular noise problem that sounds like it is coming from the motor or reduction gear? Some of the blade guide bearings are also a bit stiff so could also be an issue?

Anyone families with these saws and maintenance issues?

Edited By jon hill 3 on 29/07/2023 23:21:53

Edited By jon hill 3 on 29/07/2023 23:22:43

Thread: Identifying mystery steels
29/07/2023 22:24:51

From my point of view, yes its nice to get experience with known materials. However checking steel prices for say 5"x 1" billets from renown stockists even on eBay can be eyewateringly expensive. £100's for a few kilos of stock. I would rather go to the scrapyard or local fabricator and take a chance on a careful selection of the offcuts. Preferably finding out their identification paint codes so as to get a rough idea what the materials are.

£7 for 25 kilos of flatbar, a selection of large billets and other extrusions seems a chance worth taking.

28/07/2023 21:56:54

I recently heard about a set of rockwell hardness testing files, might this be the answer to selecting suitable machinable scrap steel?

A set of Tsubosan Japenese testing files can be had for approximatly £80 off ebay.

Thread: Removing the countershaft pulley speed 10 lathe?
23/07/2023 16:19:08

img_20230723_161105_2.jpgimg_20230723_161342_1.jpgI got it apart, it came off quite easily with the 2 legged pullers I had.

Is there some sort of honeycomb reservoir for the oil in the shaft or bronze bearing? Also how do I best remove all grease and re-oil?

Edited By jon hill 3 on 23/07/2023 16:25:34

Edited By jon hill 3 on 23/07/2023 16:26:35

23/07/2023 15:50:04

Could be difficult, as there is only 5" of space between the pulley and window. Is it possible to use some forked wedges?

23/07/2023 15:20:43

img_20230723_150050_2.jpgHi Ajax as far as I can see and feel there is only one grub screw per hole.

Allan on my speed 10 the grub screws are drill and taped 90 deg apart, there are only 2. Could be different on the ml10?

Anyway the pulley is still held fast, I have taken off the oil nipple.

Plan b is it advisable to put some light penetrating oil to displace the grease, clean and shot some more of the correct myford oil?

Edited By jon hill 3 on 23/07/2023 15:25:54

Edited By jon hill 3 on 23/07/2023 15:27:18

22/07/2023 22:16:58

Hi all

My Myford speed 10 countershaft pulley (the one on the same side as the motor pulley) makes a funny noise at low rpm. This probably due to mistakingly filling it with grease instead of oil. Rooky mistake which I left for sometime until the noise became noticable, so thought it might be time to sort it out.

Anyway I removed the primary drive belt and took out one retaining grub screw for the pulley but it still won't come off. Is there some other retaining screw or fixing? I have'nt taken off the grease nipple if this holds the shaft to the pulley?

Any ideas on removal?

Thread: Identifying mystery steels
21/07/2023 17:47:48

Following my visit to the scrapyard and new assortment of steel, is there any way of getting a rough idea of what I've got?

One of the pieces, a 2" round bar had a bright silver appearance although with some flash rust and a polished appearance. The rest had a grey mottled finish like ordinary cold rolled steel.

Thread: A trip to the scrap yard
21/07/2023 17:28:16

I went to my local scrapyard and they were more than happy for me to take a rummage as long as the big trucks weren't around. I picked up some hopefully mild steel plate ;1" , 1/2" & 1/4" plus steel some bar offcut. Paid £5 for approx 20kg of industrial scrap. So not all Scrapyard's are h&s mad in the southwest. I would have asked for brass but was already weighed down and I parked the car a fare walk away. Next time I'll go for brass. Incidently does anyone know how to identify cast bar stock... just in case they have them? I should imagine its bad scrappy etiquette to ask where they get their metal from.

Edited By jon hill 3 on 21/07/2023 17:29:37

Thread: Lake & Elliot hydraulic bottle jack seals
16/07/2023 13:12:43

img_20230715_141837_1.jpgimg_20230715_141852_1.jpgimg_20230715_141907_2.jpgimg_20230715_142052_1.jpgThanks guys,

any suggestions as to a suitable grade hydraulic oil if seals are available?

Pics above for those who haven't had a look in my album.

Edited By jon hill 3 on 16/07/2023 13:23:24

15/07/2023 17:14:13

Hi all I recently acquired an old Lake and Elliot m6 DL bottle jack. This currently serves as a door stop however providing I can get spares or get them made from a seal manufacturer it could be very handy for jacking the car, panel van etc. Can anyone point mW to a suitable supplier. Before anyone asks I have used jacks before and only use them with stands. Said jack does go up and retrack but looses oil as the seals are missing and or shot.

PS it would be quite handy to know the approximate age of this jack and company. Bonus points for a PDF service manual.

Photos in my album under bottle jack.

 

Edited By jon hill 3 on 15/07/2023 17:24:10

Thread: Putting on a fine cut..
25/06/2023 14:15:55

Having always wanted to build a small single cylinder aero engine I thought it would be a good time to get some opinion on putting on fine cuts, say working to 5/10000" in steel or aliminium.

As my ml10 is graduated in 'thou' what are the remedies to get finer cuts?

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