Makes a change from Lathes, eh?
Iain Downs | 01/10/2020 21:13:27 |
976 forum posts 805 photos | My dilemma is this: Id agreed to refurbish the bathroom and got to the preparation point where I pulled the wallpaper of the ceiling. At this point I discovered that the ceiling above the shower has some movement in it. After some consultation and debate I decided that the thing to do is to board over the ceiling with some thin Marine ply. I will screw through to the joists and also into the laths at the edges where there are no joists (there's coving and built in cupboards galore). I would, however, like to also glue the board up, especially around the edges and where it needs to but up against another board. I don't know what the best glue is. In theory I will be painting over the board and it is marine so it should resits steam well, however, best to be safe. Something like no more nails has the right consistency, but I don't know if it will deal with moisture well. Some of the more robust glues (e.g. Gorilla Glue) tend to have too high a volume and I don't need gap filling. A bit outside the normal engineering, but I'm pretty sure someone will have some ideas!
Iain |
Mick B1 | 01/10/2020 21:22:01 |
2444 forum posts 139 photos | I used Soudal PU adhesive foam to line a plastic shed with polystyrene insulation boards recently. That might work in the context you describe, but you have to allow several minutes after application for it to get to the right stickiness - then you have to hold it in contact for a minute or so. That squashes it flat between the surfaces, which seems to accelerate the curing of the cyanoacrylate component. Might be worth a try on one or two boards before buying in quantity. |
jon hill 3 | 01/10/2020 21:26:30 |
166 forum posts 40 photos | Personally I would go with aqua board, a plasterboard designed for high humidity environments and buy some passivated plasterboard screws. Much cheaper than marine ply and you don't even need to skim, it can be painted. The choice then is between mastic to fill the gaps or corner tap and drylining jointing compound. |
speelwerk | 01/10/2020 21:42:51 |
464 forum posts 2 photos | Don't know about passivated plasterboard screws but would stainless not be better to use in the bathroom? Niko. |
pgk pgk | 01/10/2020 21:53:31 |
2661 forum posts 294 photos | I've been watching 'Tips from a Shipwright ' on youtube and in the latest episode he laminates a transom using a thick epoxy (before vacuum bagging). That would have the right sort of consistency and no damp concerns. He also used a simple trick of stapling across the ends of boards while moving his clamps.. possible worth plaigerising to get board edges neat through set-up. pgk |
Clive Foster | 01/10/2020 22:11:58 |
3630 forum posts 128 photos | For a completely different alternative consider the tongue and groove plastic panels normally associated with shower enclosure walls. After using them for the ceilings on a full tile bathroom re-furb I was impressed enough with panels from IPSL, **LINK** , to do the whole house with them as part of extension work. Mostly white but with coloured patterned ones where I felt appropriate! Wipe clean and no painting, papering or other messing about for years to come. Staple straight to plasterboard or plastered ceiling. The electric stapel gun from LiDL did me just fine. I used plain white bath et al sealer round the edge in the bathroom and kitchen which were tiled right up to the ceiling after installing the panels. Dark stained 1/4 circle scotia moulding hides the to wall joint in the living area. I have old style picture rails around 16 - 17 inches down from the ceiling level with the tops of the door frames with plain white painted plastered wall above. The proper way to do things when 8 ft ceilings were the norm. Clive |
Ady1 | 02/10/2020 15:36:46 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | pinkgrip dirt cheap and works great I have also found you can put what's left in the tube into a sealed jam jar and it stays useable I put all my magnetic toolholders up with it on breezeblock, painted wood and metal, have seen zero failures so far with hammers and all sorts hanging from them once you use pinkgrip all the competition become redundant I only became aware of it because of my bathroom demolition, it was a hammer and chisel job to remove the plastic tongue in groove held on with pinkgrip applied 10 to 15 years previously Edited By Ady1 on 02/10/2020 15:40:17 |
Iain Downs | 05/10/2020 21:42:08 |
976 forum posts 805 photos | Thanks for all the input. I realise now that I should have asked this question at an earlier point in my deliberations. Specifically, before I ordered my marine ply The advice to use stainless screws is well taken and I shall order some. However, I've discovered that there is a waterproof no more nails and as I'm familiar with it and it has the consistency I'm looking for I'm going to go with that. Much appreciated!
Iain |
Mark Easingwood | 05/10/2020 23:11:30 |
![]() 53 forum posts 16 photos | If your looking for a cartridge based glue, "Stixall," made by Everbuild, is a current trade favourite. |
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