Member postings for Mark Easingwood

Hello,

Not sure they are router cutters, but they might well be "slot mortise bits," generally used in the furniture making industry, as opposed to the Joinery manufacturing industry.

I think the KITY range had a slot mortise attachment.

Mark.

Welcome,

The "Loughborough" is a solidly built training lathe. It is a plan lathe and so not a screwcutting lathe.

Click this LINK for more info.

Regards,

Mark.

I don't know about their use in engineering tooling, but, the ones in your first picture are used in spindle moulder tooling, (wood machining), along with an olive, (cone shaped nut), to hold the wedge, which locks the knives into the block.

It is not very obvious how they are used from the links below, I can takeyou a picture on Monday if you want.

Screw

Olive

Mark.

Hello,

GARY;

Yes, I bought a sample metal baluster for a job I was doing 3-4 years ago, it was delivered ok, but not the best quality in my opinion. A better sample came from another company, who then stopped trading before I could place the full order!!

I then found this company, who supplied balusters, similar to the company who had ceased trading.

PHG

BAZYLE;

As said by others "Coach Screws with Sq Head" probably imperial sizes, so may be hard to find.

Mark.

Hi again,

here are pictures of mine, including with pivot bolt removed. It is a plain shank bolt, running in round steel tube bushes within the box section arms, so nothing special.

My saw may not be the same as yours, I think they were improved over time, mine has no guarding to the pulleys etc, although they are well covered by the 18 inch table, when fitted.

Regards,

Mark.

Hi Matt,

I have one, I bought new probably in the mid eighties. I have never really used it, but by coincidence I recently cleaned and lubricated it, with a view to cutting some marquetry. I need to make a new table, as the original has twisted, and I cut the marquetry with a knife, so I still haven't used it!

Mine is incredibly noisy, mostly due to the fan on the motor it seems. If I was going to use it regularly, I would consider replacing the motor with something else.

The saw is at work, and when I am next there, I will have a look at the pivot for you, possibly later today or tomorrow, and report back. I think the side to side movement is adjusted by nipping up the pivot bolts, which have a plain nut, a nyloc, may be better.

Anything else you need to know?

Mark

Hi Martin,

They look like "cutters", "Irons", or "knives", as used in woodworking machinery such as multi head moulders, spindle moulders and tenoning machines. The HSS is usually just a thin piece laminated to mild steel or similar, as seen in your picture of the edge of the cutter.

The cutters are held on a Tee slotted Square Block by a single bolt. The "open slot" type were frowned upon or possibly banned before the "closed slot "type, as they could more easily fly out of the machine!!! All this type were banned around 1998 if memory serves.

Think of a couple of axe heads spinning at 6000 RPM!!!

Couple of pictures from a Wadkin catalogue circa 1954.

Hi again,

Trend Router Bases are tapped M6, so you only need a clearance hole and counterbore.

Plastic/Nylon/Wood would also be ok to use. The Trend one is probably plastic, so it won't mark the job.

For Reference the piece in this picture is 70mm long x 20mm wide.

The Guide Bushes are flush with the router base, so don't add anything to the thickness of the jig.

Regards,

Mark

Hi Martin,

I don't have this particular jig, but I think the block will be the same thickness as the frame, other dimensions not critical. I guess it is screwed to router base to stop router tipping over, when balancing on the narrow frame.

I just stick a suitable block of wood on the base with double sided tape, when using home made jigs.

Instructions for Varijig are here ;-

Varijig PDF

Mark.

Hello,

Lovey models.

I would broadly do as Jason has suggested.

Two sheets of 3 or 6mm MDF for top and bottom, inner framework of MDF strips, (like an aeroplane wing, only flat)

Glue it all together, then lip the outer edges with hardwood, say 8mm thick, mitred at the four corners, flush it off with the top/bottom.

Veneer over the top and bottom, trim edges flush, then chamfer . Use matching veneer and lipping, and you won't see the join when you chamfer it.

Mark. (Joinery Manufacturer).

Jason is quicker than me.

Edited By Mark Easingwood on 06/02/2022 16:57:19

Hello, and welcome.

I believe the Raglan 5" has 14 DP/ 14.5º pressure angle change wheels. The Gears in the gearbox are 16 DP.

Raglan Mk 1 and Mk 11 have 16 DP change wheels. Some late Mk 11 models have 14 DP change wheels.

I have a late MK 11 with 14 DP change wheels, I require both a 20 and 48 tooth 14 DP change wheel. Have been looking for a couple of years without success, so good luck with your search.

Someone on Ebay makes gears to order in Delrin, also on Ebay a seller called 52kr LINK often has Raglan parts for sale, he is a nice fella to deal with.

Mark.

Yes, an interesting find, well thought out.

He has either accidently or knowingly "duplicated" the method used on industrial hydraulic copy lathes, (for wood), as seen in this ;-

VIDEO

Mark.

Ega

You hold them as shown on the back of the packet, fairly upright, with fore finger on ridged part, on the Shaw one. You need a bit of pressure for a consistent cut. No idea how old this is, even 'tho it is unused, or when carbide replaced Alloy Steel.

When freehand cutting shaped pieces for stained glass windows etc, it can be easier to push the cutter, rather than pull it, and turn the piece of glass as well.

Clogs,

Do you mean, Auriou They are available in the UK from Classic Hand Tools

Mark.

Here you go, the one on the left is hollow, so it can be filled with oil. I can't find a diamond one at the minute, got one somewhere tho'. You could still buy diamond ones a few years ago, not sure now. The Shaw glass cutters used to be available with a 6 wheel rotating head, so you could turn it to a new cutter, as the one in use got blunt.They also used to sell replacement wheels, a fiddly job!

Mark

Good Evening,

If it's any help, I have had a MOTO G6 for 3 years, my first smartphone, I bought it unlocked from John Lewis, (best price at the time), and use it with Giff Gaff.

No problems with the 'phone, not much bloatware on it, works well for online banking etc.

I tend not to use much data, as it works on wifi at home, at my business premises there is no signal inside, most of the time.

Mark.

When I was press ganged into delivering leaflets for "Slimming World" we were issued with a wooden spoon, to poke the leaflets through the letterbox, using the spoon end. I didn't use mine, too slow, but i did wear gloves.

Blame the Building Regs for the "air lock" style letter plates, houses have to be air tight these days.

Mark.

Try using "Birch Ply", which is a better quality Plywood than the "Far Eastern Ply" usually sold.

Or make a former and laminate strips of Ash, as when making an Archery Bow.

Mark.

Chamber Joist, when I was an apprentice.

Mark.

Basically, scribe the tenon shoulder over the moulding, as others have said.

Top Left shows the kind of joint produced with the scribe and mould cutters, as Jason linked to, which creates a stub tenon which fits into the panel groove. This relies on the glue holding the joint together, great for cupboard doors, no use for house doors. (This was done using Spindle Moulder Cutter Blocks).

Top Right shows through scribed joints, the Sapele one was done on the Tenoning Machine in the background, the Softwood one by Bandsaw/Hand Tools.

Bottom Left, the kind of gouges required to create scribes by hand, are the in-cannel type, i.e. inside bevel.

Bottom Right, when scribing wide rails on Doors etc, if doing it by hand you only need to scribe ½ inch to 1 inch say, the remaining shoulder can be left square, and a section of moulding chiseled away on the stile, similar to the drawing, which is of a frame.

Mark.