Cable Gland

Hi Guys

I’ve got some 1.5mm twin multi strand cable, there is no earth wire with it and the outside diameter of the sheath is 7mm.

I need to run it through some 6mm thick steel and Iv'e been having a look at the glands in the image.

Namely the IP68-PG9, the only trouble is by the time the locking nut is screwed on there won’t be enough thread distance to accommodate 6mm, see measurement D, it's only 8mm to start with.

Question: Does anyone have any ideas what could be used??

Thanks to anyone who can help

Clive

Tap the steel plate to suit the gland thread.

You may be better off with a M16x1.5 threaded gland, probably enough length for your plate thickness.

Emgee

Edited By Emgee on 20/02/2020 23:09:54

RS Components has 25 PG9 to choose from ... you may hit lucky

**LINK**

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/cables-wires/cable-glands-strain-relief-grommets/cable-glands/?searchTerm=cable%20gland&applied-dimensions=4294880905,4293395760

Alternatively; could you tap the panel ?

... or even counterbore it ?

MichaelG.

.

emgee got there whilst I was searching RS

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 20/02/2020 23:13:13

Cable glands with a long thread are available.

Mike

Have a look at the double barrier range of glands (usually in Brass) they have a min 15mm thread as 5mm is required to be in contact due to the their application

Trevor

Will this do it perhaps?

Bore out the 6 mm plate just bigger than the nut and then make a smaller panel out of 3 mm steel to cover the hole on which the gland can be attached.

Mike

As previously mentioned, there are numerous 'long thread stuffing glands' readily available . . .

Mr Google is your friend for this, then trawl through RS components (tend to be expensive) or the likes of E Bay, or Amazon.

Other good sources are Screwfix (trade outlet of B&Q) but also Newey & Eyre or City Electrical can prove useful.

Or . . . you could always make a bespoke gland on the Lathe (assuming you have access to one)

Hi Guys

Thank you for your comments, Emgee / Michael Gilligan I’m doing all of this with a hand held drill so counter boring is out of the question.

I would imagine a tap the size of a gland thread would cost an arm and a leg, but I do appreciate your comments.

Clive India I think you may have just cracked it for me I will certainly be checking into using one of those glands, I can always file the holes out in the angle iron.

You can see from my photo what I’m trying to do, I guess I should have posted a picture in the first place, my apologises.

You can see in the photo how the cable passes through the 50mm x 50mm x 6mm angle iron, which it also does in another couple of places.

Having said that there’s absolutely no way I would leave the cable like that even though its clipped to the underside of the table.

I reckon with the machines running the emergency stop cables will chaff through in no time flat, it will be hard work filling the holes out to suit the glands given the position they are in, but for my own safety they can’t be left as they are.

Thanks once again

Clive

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Hi Bill

When you say you used clips either side, do you mean cable clips.

Also when you used a grommet the grooves in them are only wide enough to accomodate thin metal, typical thickness of whats used for eletrical boxes which are sunk into plastered walls, my angle iron is 6mm thick.

Cut a groove in the wood and take the cable over the top of the angle iron, no gland needed.

Emgee

Based on what I can determine from your text and pictures I would say that the type of cable and its installation are unsuitable, (if this is some sort of machinery).

If the cable is carrying mains voltage then it should really be three core (with an earth wire)

If the purpose of the gland is just to stop movement between the cable and the hole then the ones you showed originally are overkill. They are good for sealing and clamping the cable but provide no bend/strain support if the cable is flex and being moved frequently (that type of PVC cable would not last long in an industrial environment)

Routing the cable through a hole in the steelwork seems pointless, Going over rather than through the obstruction would only add a few extra cm of cable.

If the reason for not going over the edge of the metal angle is to prevent the cable being damaged by accidental trapping or being impacted, then it should be protected by a rigid cover or trunking. If there is a possibility of the cable passing over the a metal rib being damaged then I would surmise that even the less projecting wiring is vulnerable too.

Most of the above is just speculation without having more information on the application but its something that might be worth bearing in mind.

Ian P

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I can see why you don't like the cable going through a bare hole, although if everything is properly secured it probably won't matter. Rerouting the cable across or around the angle iron would look even more like a bodge. A screwed gland is massive overkill even if you already had a suitable part. Grommets are used to good effect in much thinner sheetmetal, and will work here. Or you could glue/cabletie a short piece of thick hose(6mm fuel hose would be a good start) over the cable where it passes through the hole.

Nicholas Wheeler's suggestion of the hose would work best. Don't forget, you are weakening the steel by drilling large holes in it.

As belt and braces make sure the angle is earthed and the supply is fed from a 30mA RCD/RCBO then whatever happens you will be safe.

Steve

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Nicholas Wheeler 1

The reason I don’t like the idea of going through a bare hole in the steel is because even though the cable will be clipped, having machinery running above could/will cause vibration and the cable could chaff, better to be safe than sorry.

When you think about it why are rubber grommets fitted in steel boxes for house wiring. When they are plastered into a wall there is absolutely no way the cable will move once its plastered in, although I grant you the metal of the switch boxes in a house application is much thinner.

Ok Guys this is all to do with my Kity Woodwork Machine of which I’ve done some recent posts about.

So back to my master plan, have a look at my sketch, you will see the idea is to have an emergency stop button on each side of the machine table.

On the table is a Circular saw, Surface planer thicknesser, Spindle moulder and a Slot mortiser.

These machines are all driven by flat belts which take their drive from a single motor in the middle of the machine table, so no electricity goes to any of them except the motor itself.

From my previous posting I’m trying to do away with the original switch which lived on top of the motor.

I’ve purchased a direct on line starter and in a nutshell what I’d like to do if its at all possible, is run the wiring from four emergency stop buttons into the box on top of the motor and then come out of the same box with a 5 core cable and connect to the direct on line starter and from there a 3 core cable to a three pin plug which will allow me to plug into any convenient socket outlet.

Ian P

Brought up about running an earth with the emergency stop buttons, first off its absolutely no problem for me to run a three core cable, having said that there is no provision inside the emergency stop buttons for anything other than a live wire, of course I can put a connector inside them if I have to.

Since I’ve already run two core cable to every emergency stop button, I’m wondering if I could use the obsolete wire as an earth, but again do I need to earth them as they are plastic.

Whilst on the topic of earthing I’ve done a continuity check on all the machines, even down onto the caster bolts and buzzer on my tester is buzzing away.

The only machine which did not give a buzz was the surface planer but as I’ve already said none of these machines have power onto them, having said that I can always run an earth wire under the wooden table where the planer is bolted and connect it to part of the steelwork.

All the other machines are bolted through the steelwork at some point with the exception of the planer.