Tool post for Myford ML10 lathe

I acquired my first lathe not too long ago -a Myford ML10. I am a newbie to all of this. I’ve done a lot of reading on quick change tool posts. The problem seems to be that the tool posts mentioned require machining to fit the ml10 units - I am just getting into this hobby, and don’t own a mill just yet. I am looking for a tool post with 4 clamping tools (will that suffice for a small lathe like this, or do you recommend more tool holders? Which units will fit without modifications?

The Myford 10s have a 3 1/4" centre height. Measure the height of the top of the compound slide from the bed surface, add the height of the tools you propose to use (say 6mm/0.236" or 8mm/0.315" ) and subtract the sum from 3.25". That's the thickness you want for the bottom flange of a 4-way toolpost. You don't need a mill if you've got a decent size 4-jaw chuck - you can mount the toolpost in the chuck and face it to thickness. Don't be greedy with speed, feed or depth of cut.

That's what I did when I had a Speed 10, and I ran it for 15 years.

Edited By Mick B1 on 06/02/2020 20:09:02

May I suggest that to start with, you don't bother with quick change tool posts, carbide inserts etc. It is important to know how the tools work, so get some HSS blanks and learn to grind your own. It is not difficult, and you only need a few different shapes for most work. You will need a small bench grinder, of course.

The ML10 came as standard with a simple clamp for a single tool - I guess that is what you have. A 4 way toolpost such as those fitted to Chinese mini lathes is not expensive and will fit with slight modification. It's a long time since I did mine, but as far as I remember it needed a bit machined off the bottom to get it to a reasonable height. This is easily done on the lathe in a 4 jaw chuck - no need for a mill.

In practice you never have all 4 possible tools mounted, often only one or two, so it isn't an essential thing and again, to start with, you should perhaps see how you get on with the standard single clamp, then decide what you really need.

Centre height of an ML10 is not 3 1/4, but 3 5/16.

As Redsetter says, the most you will need to do is bore out or sleeve the central hole of a toolpost and perhaps skim the base.

If you look here you will see several different options.

If you do want a Quick Change Toolpost the 000 from Arc Euro Trade is nice and compact, a conversion stud kit is available for ML7/S7 and as far as I am aware the ML10 has the same size mounting stud so this should work with it.

The minimum height lost on the 000 toolpoost is just 4mm so it should be fine with the ML10, so with that conversion stud it should work fine with no machining.

Neil

Have a look at this & read the txt at the end.

Steve.

**LINK**

Thank you for all the info!

Honestly, I have no idea what I need. Which bits should I buy to get started?

I did a cleanup of the lathe and reoiled all the components and such. Which areas in particular should i check for wear? I acquired this lathe from a friend as a gift.

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 06/02/2020 23:58:42

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 07/02/2020 00:25:46

Also, where can I purchase HSS blanks to make my own tools?

I went down the route of making my own tools from HSS steel, it is a great start. But a little old fashioned like some people are. Would you drive your car using hand signals because that is how it used to be done. No. These days & with modern materials you do not need to go down that route unless you plan to make something special that requires a certain angle of cut or radius.

You are asking the same questions that I asked when I came onto this forum. I was told to leave the lathe alone & just use it. One member suggested to wait 2 years before doing any mods , so I could get used to machining etc. Did I listen.???. The main things are is the bed of the lathe true. Is the cross slide accurate with none or little play. Is the headstock free of any lateral play. Make sure you keep it well lubricated with oil & not grease. Read the blurb on the myford website for your model. You can fit the quick change tool post easily as I did.

Look for the thread that I started. (Myford only). It was not hard to convert. My S7 came with a toolpost of the basic kind, which meant that every time I wanted to fit a cutter. I had to pack it with shims, bits of hacksaw blades & anything else I could find. I now have the new one fitted & it is superb. I have an array of tool holders on a magnetic strip at the side of the lathe. Right hand cut, left hand cut, Straight cut. 1 spare. Some more on order to do boring & I need another for parting. I am fortunate that I can purchase the things I need due to investing in my pension fund some years ago.

I understand that some members have to manage on a basic pension & for that I do feel sorry for them. But if you can afford to spend a few pounds on the lathe to bring it up to modern specs, then do. The myford site do a quick change tool post that fits your lathe. I went down a different route.

I bought a toolpost from the USA. The one I wanted was a Chinese version but there were none available from China. Tells you something. This was before the out break of the current disease. Also a warning. Do not order anything from China at the moment as you will not get it.

If you have some metal of any kind, then try it in the chuck. Turn it gently to make sure it is central & not wobbling about. Fit a cutter & have a go at machining some thing. Read some books on machining, or ask anything on here. Length of cut without support. etc etc. This forum is a mind of information, so ask away. I now have some cutters with the inserts & they are very good, do not need re sharpening every 2 minutes. Also they sell the carbide brazed cutters that are very good too.

I am sorry if my comments insult any members but I am trying to be as honest & direct to a new member that just wants to do some machining. Without an apprentiship.

Thank you for the great info! Do you have a link to the tool post you installed on your myford?

Edited By Redsetter on 07/02/2020 08:48:01

If using a quick change toolholder on an ML10/Speed 10 the tool shanks have to be around 8mm high to fit for centre height.

I agree with Steviegtr about ditching the HSS route. Get some of the polished sharp carbide inserts designed for aluminium and use them for everything and you won't go far wrong. HSS has its uses but if I was just starting out now I would not make life more difficult than it needs to be by grinding my tools from HSS blanks.

Doug

I could find it but I think it might be a bit too big. The one I fitted is not the smallest they sell. It is No 2 . Anyway here is the ebay item No . Just type or copy & paste that No in search box on ebay.

153540921340

I'm now a fervent convert to tipped tools, but HSS does have a few things going for it:

• You'll never get stuck without a sharp tool, because you can sharpen it yourself - also this means that inevitable mistakes that blunt or damage tools are less expensive.
• With a bit of practice you can make specialist tools with no more than a bench grinder.
• Most of all - HSS tools are very forgiving of speeds and feeds and are especially suited to beginners how are often cautious ion their approach.

So my advice is to always have some HSS in your armoury, but don't discount tipped tooling.

Neil

Carbide tips will cut very hard steels, (The red hot swarf is quite exciting! ) but they do chip. Good for taking the skin off chilled cast iron.

You need to run fast enough for the tool tp generate heat and soften the workpiece.

And you will ruin your last one on Saturday evening! Newtons Fourth Law, sometimes attributed to Murphy or Sod!

At least with HSS, you can resharpen, and be up and running again in a short space of time, (but not if the material is case hardened! )

Howard

It's fine to quench HSS in water, but dip often - don't get it red hot. I've pinched one of the grandkids' beach buckets. I use HSS for everything except when cubic inches metal removal per minute matter, for which I've a couple of TC insert tools.

Are there any tool post holders on amazon which will fit the ml10 without mods? Ive done some searching, and haven’t come yo a conclusive answer on which ones will fit. I’m kind of overwhelmed!

Don't take this the wrong way, but model engineering is very much about making things fit when they don't!

Modifying a toolpost isn't such a bad idea for a first project. If you already have some kind of toolholder on your lathe you can do it.

I doubt you will find anything on Amazon specifically designed for the ML10. Some listings do include detailed dimensions, but if not you will just have to order the most likely one, measure it up, and send it back if you don't think it will work.

| Are there any tool post holders on amazon which will fit the ml10 without mods?

Nope! the ML10 is a frustratingly awkward beast.

Until you know exactly what you want for your particular jobs, get either some 10mm HSS or some cheap carbide tool holders of the ccxx and or dcxx type with a supply of tips.

Purchase from a metal factor some ally strip of same widths as tools, but in suitable thickness to bring the tools up to approx. centre line.

Purchase a bunch of cheapo feeler gauges, clamp and saw in half to give you some ultra fine shimming.

Make up your tools to just below centre height with thicker shimming when clamped using the simple tool clamp and araldite or super glue the shims to the base of the cutting tool, then find a fine shim from the feeler gauge to bring to exact height (by facing a bar to leave no pip). This will take you an evening to do a few tools, but they will then always be ready for use using the basic clamping system (which is actually quite versatile).

Then your next job will be to make whatever toolpost you like - a Norman patent would be a good first project or make a version of a tangential tool cutter that you can set on height and can do most of your cutting.

Don't be overwhelmed, don't sweat the small stuff, just plough right in and just treat it as a fantastic learning experience.