Unimat Fretsaw set up

Unimat Fretsaw No1080 arrived today, looks to be in good condition though needs a good oiling.

If anyone is familiar with these, I'm not clear how the upper blade guide locks the blade?

The part is a piece of rod with a slot cut down its length, then a VERY tight piece of tube at one end, also with a vertical slot. Currently both rod & tube are a very tight fit, I'm assuming they are meant to be movable against each other and should somehow clamp the fret blade in place?

Any assistance as always gratefully received!

Cheers

Chris.

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Hi Bill, thank you, I have a general assembly diagram of how the saw components fit together, but it dosen't show how this part works, or is meant to. Maybe you have some more specific info, if that the case then yes please do send it over.

Cheers

Chris.

Chris

If you attachment looks like this, the rod is just a guide for the blade. The blade is not actually fastened to anything at the top but just slides in the slot in the rod which acts as a guide. The tube on the rod is fixed and serves to retain the blade in the slot. In use the rod is moved down to just clear the work and is clamped to the frame at the top with the large knurled thumb screw. It is also orientated with the slot to the front so the cutting pressure pushes the back of the blade against the slot.

John

Chris

John Purdy has described operation perfectly, be sure to feel the cutting action in use and don't try to force the cutting speed.

Emgee

Thank you so much John and Emgee, yes mines like that so problem solved. I need to get some metal cutting blades now, what sort of TPI would be good for 1mm brass & copper?

Cheers

Chris.

I got an Emco Unimat SL early last year, nice wee lathe , It came with attachments including the jig saw, no blades, I looked at fret saw blades, too thin, then I looked at coping saw too wide, so I took one and ground quite a bit off the back of the blade until it seemed to fit, it works OK. It seems OK even though there is nothing supporting the top end of the blade. If the going gets tough rub the blade with a bit of candle wax, You could grind down a junour hacksaw blade. Just got to find something to use as belts for the thing, I,m using 5 mm heat join belt.

Ian S C

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Thank you Ian, and I hope you continue to recover well.

Today some fretsaw blades arrived but agree I don't think they will perform well, unless under tension. Hopefully tomorrow I will have a chance to assemble it and try it out.

I'm currently considering if I might make an upper blade clamp so the blades can be in tension.

I'm sure Ive seen belts available on eBay.

Cheers

Chris

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Oh ok thanks very much Bill.

I think when I needed some I was just glad to find they were still available but that was some while ago, before I saw the light and joined the forum!

Cheers

Chris.

A set of 2 butyl rubber belts are £7.20 plus postage from pro machine tools.

A set of 2 polyurethane belts is £8 delivered from ebay.

Not twice the price, and polyurethane is superior quality.

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They both have Unimat SL's.

Unimat sl large belt £3.60

Unimat sl small belt £3.60

£7.20 plus postage.

There is a new (to me) machinery retailer in Christchurch NZ, that I must explore. I'm using the low ratio so it has 4 belts.

Ian S C

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Ok well I set the fretsaw up this morning and was pleasantly surprised with how it works.

Cut 1mm copper and 1.5mm brass without much problem.

Only issue I can see is if as suggested the top guide is lowered down to just clear of the work being cut, to act as both a hold down and blade support you cannot see where you are cutting. So that's something to think about..and any ideas are welcome.

Cheers

Chris.

Chris

When I use mine I set the blade guide 1/16 - 1/8" above the work. This provides good support to the blade but allows you to see what's going on. It's not actually used as a work hold down (that's the job of your fingers!).

John

Ah thank you John ok I will try that, seems like I was over thinking it

Not like me at all🤔😊

Cheers

Chris.