Member postings for John Purdy

Rod

Thanks for the link, it didn't show up in my internet search. That is my unit and is the info I wanted and explains its behavior. When I do brass or bronze I will have to revert to my multimeter which goes to 1320C ( or just use the mv scale and my tables ).

Noel

The probes I have are from "Omega Engineering" and are K type, 1/4" dia, Inconel sheath,15" and 24" long and are good for the max temp of the K type (1320C ). I was given the 310 readout and had only used it for aluminum so hadn't run into the units limits.

Thanks everyone for the help.

John

Thanks Michael, I had found that listing but was hoping for, as you say. something a little more authoritative. I tend to take things I read on ebay with a bit of a grain of salt. But it does sort of match with how it behaved.

John

I realize this is a bit of a long shot, but does anyone have the user's manual for a Corning 310 Temperature Plus K type thermocouple readout unit that they could copy for me. I only need the specs. I've searched the internet to no avail.

I was casting some brass yesterday and the display changed from the temperature to showing "Er" once it reached 1770F. I swapped a different probe and it did the same. So I'm wondering if it has an upper temperature limit that it will display.

John

Danni

I've sent you a PM.

John

David

I,ve sent you a PM.

John

After taking my Sanderson all apart and oiling it up and making a few adjustments to free it up, I have got it running on air, sans governor but including the gear train as shown it the picture at the top of this thread. After an hour or so of "braking in" its been running for the last hour comfortably at 32 RPM on 1 or 2 PSI ( hard to tell, the needle on the regulator hardly moves off the stop ). It will actually run slower but is not very regular, I suspect the valve needs adjusting slightly. It's a bit of a pain to adjust as the cross shaft of the valve actuating linkage prevents taking the valve chest off, so to see the valve to adjust it the whole valve linkage has to be removed (for the umpteenth time! I've lost track of how many times so far ).

John

Noel

It took about 6 weeks, but my hands fully recovered with no lasting evidence other than one small spot on the heel of my left hand where there is no feeling. That was the most seriously burned area. Thankfully, as I said in the letter, my fingers were protected by the grinder stage, so after they were seen to and bandaged up at the hospital I still had full use of my hands (carefully!!).

John

Noel

Exactly! Here's the original post to ME for everyone's info. There was also some follow up letters in later issues. I have some pictures of the damage to my hands but can't find them at the moment.

I now leave the side off the machine and clean it out on a regular basis. When I do on occasion grind aluminum I have a dedicated belt that is labelled and only used for aluminum, and do a thorough clean out immediately afterward.

I use a Delta 1 " x 30" belt grinder on metal all the time. I use both AlO and zirconium belts. The zirconium ones last considerably longer but are more expensive.

Anyone using one should be aware of a potential explosion/fire hazard while using one on metal. See my letter in ME "Post Bag" for 9 Mar 2001 #4141. I suffered badly burned hands from an explosive fireball while using it on steel.

Delta originally listed it as for use on wood and metal but after I contacted them about my experience I noticed that a short time later their advertisements listed it for use on wood only, coincidence or CYA?

John

The Sanderson is almost finished, just a few 1-72 (10BA ) studs and the governor to do, and finish off the base with some tiles to simulate stone work.

I finally got the governor drive gear train to run reasonably smoothly after a lot of trial and error. As mentioned in my post in "Help and Assistance Wanted" titled "Sanderson Gears" (07/10/22 ) the 3:1 drive gears will only run if the pinion is backed out of full engagement with the crown gear and is set with a fair bit of backlash. Also a fair amount of lapping them together helped them run smoothly. The mitre gears were a different story.

I used this jig to check the mesh and also to lap them together. The two 3/16" dia. shafts run in R3 ball bearings, and with the top slide set at 45 degrees the mesh of the pair can be adjusted. They are rotated by twirling the shaft of the unit on the top slide between the fingers. I tried various combinations of the 4 to find the best 2 pairs. On one of the pairs the teeth on both gears came to a point (can be seen in the picture in other post ) and when the gears were meshed and held up to the light appeared to be bottoming in the gullets of the opposing teeth with the flanks not touching. I therefore set them up in the lathe on a true running mandrel, and with the top slide set over to 45 degrees skimmed the tips of the teeth to leave them with a small flat. That improved things considerable. I also thought their width was wider than necessary, so I machined .060" off the front face to make them narrower. That again improved their running plus I think they look much better.
That was followed by an extensive period of lapping each pair together, with every once in a while disengaging them and rotating one gear by one tooth space and re-engaging them to continue lapping. I figured I should do this as with the same number of teeth on each gear the lapping would then average out and they should engage the same no matter how they were meshed. That sort of worked as there is one orientation where they run best

In the end I have ended up with a gear train that runs reasonably smoothly although has a little more backlash than would be normal hence is a little noisy.
I figured it would be next to impossible to line up and set the mesh of the gears by clamping down and spotting through the holes in the base of each of the three shaft bearing supports for studs and nuts so I cheated a bit and drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom of the base of each and after clamping them in position for the best mesh of the gears I marked their position on the base plate and drilled an oversized clearance hole for a single hold down screw up from the bottom. This allowed for some adjustment of position to get the smoothest running. I'll fill the holes in the bearing standards with dummy studs and nuts.
Now for the governor itself I'm not sure what I will do, as I've said previously that section of my plans (original Clarkson's dye line ) have faded to the point where they are unreadable. I have the plans for two other beam engines, "Mary",and "Lady Stephanie" also Anthony Mount's "Scotch Crank Engine" which all have governors. So barring getting the Sanderson drawings I should be able to figure something out using those three.

John

Edited By John Purdy on 18/08/2023 00:28:48

James

You have a PM

John

Like this. but perhaps for a smaller gun.

I also think it is a Quoin. Goes between the breech of the barrel and the carriage above the rear axle to adjust the elevation of the barrel, hence range of the shot. Look for pictures of 18th century ships cannons. (Try HMS Victory ).

John

Edited By John Purdy on 27/07/2023 18:00:14

Jim

I suspect you are missing the part shown in the photos below. It is a dished half washer and fits in the groove you mention to apply some tension on the arms to keep them from moving but still able to rotate to position them. Should be easy enough to make something suitable.

John

Stephen

Having had the same problem with the original Myford oiler way back in 1978, I modified the tip of a standard pump oil can spout as in the photo below. The brass tip is turned down to fit in the hole in the oil nipple and although not clearly visible there is a small slot filled across the tip. In use the end is pushed into the oil nipple, depressing the ball, the curved surface sealing against the nipple and the slot allows the oil to flow into the nipple as the oil can is pumped resulting in all the oil going into the nipple and not all over the place.

John

Edited By John Purdy on 18/07/2023 17:45:17

I forgot to mention, the screws are c/s .600 long overall, .450 under the head, and when in the countersink in the jaw  protrude from the back by .250".

John

Edited By John Purdy on 23/06/2023 21:20:10

Martin

Further to my last and to expand on John's above I've managed to get the screws out and the holes in my jaws measure .270 dia., the screws are 1/4 -20 ( BSW I assume, although a 1/4" -20 UNC seem to fit ) are spaced .325 up from the bottom of the jaw and are spaced 2.130 by measuring across the outside of the holes and subtracting the .270 hole diameter. The .270 was measured with an internal mike and the other measurements with vernier calipers

John

Martiin

The dimensions of the jaws on my Record #3 (UK made) are 4.025 x .750x .375, and the hole spacing is 2.125 centre to centre spaced .425 down from the top of the jaw. The hole positions were determined by using the countersunk holes for the screws as the screws wouldn't budge.

I couldn't get an accurate distance to the bottom of the jaw as the bottom  edge of the jaw is chamfered and I couldn't get a good reading with the calipers from the bottom of the countersunk hole and the jaw bottom.

John

Edited By John Purdy on 23/06/2023 18:19:45

Further to my previous, I've dug out the parts list for my Stuart beam, dated May 1972, and it lists the pattern # for the bedplate as 80064. In the parts section for the beam engine on the current Stuart web site it also lists the stock # of the bedplate as 80064. So it is definitely a casting/pattern # not a serial #.

John

Edited By John Purdy on 05/06/2023 19:25:13

My Stuart beam is probably from the '70s or '80s ( I got it part built second, or more, hand ) and the number on the base is 80063 and on close examination with a loupe is definitely cast in not stamped. So I would assume it is a casting number.

John