Member postings for Chris V

Thank you Diogenes11, yes that looks like a promissing search too (-:

Thanks Howard, I will send you a PM now.

Thank you MikeT, yes that's a good resource, I will enjoy reading through that.

Stan Bray's version or any others anyone please?

Does anyone have a photo of the Stan Bray Hero of Alexandria engine

as featured in his book making simple model steam engines please?

Or similar that they have made?

Thank you Dave & Andy, Ive just had another play with mine.

I noticed the bow was quite loose in the hex guides so played around till I think I found its sweet spot, the hex guides don't appear to be overly worn. It really does not want to cut on the push stroke, I have blade clamps both ends of the bow so can use both ends of a blade.

However on the pull stroke I just cut 2 slices of 1-1/8" round leaded bar, pretty much square and 5 mins per slice, 18tpi blade. Standing there watching it work sure beats doing it by hand so happy enough with that!

I would not leave a machine running unattended as a rule, but isn't that the function of the thermal overload protection and reset button on the motor should it stall?

Mine does have an adjustable 'depth' gauge as per the publicity brochure, but it appears to only control the height the saw is raised for loading & unloading materials, not that this is a great problem.

Its great that it shuts off automatically, but the only advantage of that seems to be if you left it cutting unattended.
If I didn't wish to keep it all original I'd give that function up for a more powerful motor, I wonder why they fitted such a weedy one, cost?

Does anyone have a knob on the end of the right hand facing lifting handle?

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks Andy, Interesting to hear and see others issues with these!

No certainly not fast, but a darn sight less effort than using a hand saw! I have a vertical wood bandsaw for my brass which works fine but way too fast for steel.

I had obviously missed that about blade direction, I will change it tomorrow.

Chris.

Well 3 hrs later Ive had some good progress. Clearly cutting oil is essential at least on mine, I thought at that speed it would not be necessary....as I write I guess I was getting mixed up with coolant...doh!

The oil is sorted, I just put more in and the problem seems to be solved.

As to the distorted base, I picked a rubber floor mat up of the floor and put the saw on that, I had thought that the saw would jump about but again I was wrong, its a lot more stable and a fair bit quieter now.

I even tried an 18tpi blade for the 3/4" sq steel and it coped fine, I was even able to increase the feed rate once I had it going.

Oh and the spring near the red Bakelite knob needed the tension adjusting so I have adjustable depth of cut now its working right..at least I think it is.

So overall a good Saturday! (-:

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks Andrew, would love to see photos when its done if you are so inclined! (-:

Chris.

Thanks Andrew, that's good to know for sure about the bearings. Did you have an issue or where you just being really good and wanting to keep it well serviced?

Chris.

Hmm interesting, thank you John, Dave & Peak4. I got the oil in, I bought SAE 90 GL5 Gear Oil basically following the advice on Lathes website as I know very little about oil. I put a new blade in 24tpi cutting towards the vice fixed jaw/motor. Well actually I tried it the other way first as that's how it came but found basically I think the feed rate was too quick and the saw kept jamming. I was trying this on 25mm x 4mm mild steel, cutting dry. So having turned the blade round to cut on the pull stroke I then cut through 7/8" round brass ok though still with some motor stall, not belt slippage, I checked. Then I put in some 3/4" x 3/4" M/S bar, again it stalled until it had got started properly ie had cut itself a line right across the bar, I them added some cutting fluid which seemed to help.

When it wanted to stall I was constantly relieving the pressure from the cut to keep it going. So this suggests to me I need a thicker oil? Oh yes I discovered the feed speed control works well, so had it turned anticlockwise as far as possible for the steel, ie slow feed, and clockwise for the brass once I'd got started. Maybe Dave you get away with thinner???? oil in yours as you have a more powerful motor I think?

Do you think its my oil choice? Ie I need something thicker??

Also the depth of cut adjuster is a mystery to me, I can adjust the block up and down its bar but that only seems to regulate how far up/down the saw is in the latched upright position, I must be missing something.

Iv'e noticed the Ali base casting is twisted with an old brass shim between it and the top section to even it up so I will want to tackle that but the cut rate is more important right now.

Oh yes it cuts a little out of square but I wasn't expecting it to be perfect, I don't know about the bow wear I'm afraid?

Chris.

Thank you not done it yet. Yes I looked grease guns up and can see they could be changed or even modified.

As yet though I don't have one but they can be had for only £10 so would not break the bank anyway.

It was pointed out the original sales literature states the Hoover motor has ball bearings. Further advice received from several sources mentioned the danger of over greasing the bearings, so for now I'm going to get it running and see how the bearing ends feel once its done some work.

Many thanks for your help,

Chris.

I have just acquired a Kennedy Hex60 power hacksaw. It still has the original rubber gaiter over the dashpot. Having read the info on Tony' s Lathes website and the Kennedy brochure online I have bought the appropriate oil and understand the dashpot should be half filled or half an eggcup depending one which source you go by.

Question is how do you put the oil in?

I found I can raise the sawing arm enough that the plunger just comes right out of the pot, so could perhaps use a small funnel to add the oil, but how do other owners do it please?

Chris.

Thank you Trevor, Ive sent you a PM with my email address.

Thank you Clive very much, yes the middle one looks like it would fit, I shall keep a look out.

Thank you too not done it yet, yes of course you are right, however as its all original I would prefer to keep it that way. Having one grease gun in my ownership would not be a bad thing either, Ive never had need to use one let alone own one.

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you all, and there was me yet again thinking wrongly it would be a simple answer! (-:

Clive yes please I would certainly be interested in seeing some photos. Thanks for the how to do it tip also.

I will get it rewired and consider whether to take apart or use it as is for now, possibly/hopefully someone who owns a Kennedy saw might actually know for sure.....

Chris.

I dont know? Presumably ball bearings??

thanks

Chris.

I have a Kennedy hacksaw with original Hoover motor. The bearings have lubrication points as in the photo. Up till now Ive only had oil cups on my machines, what do I need to apply lubricant to these nipples?

Firstly are they for oil, or for grease?

Secondly what tool do I look for, preferably vintage to apply the lubricant?

Thanks in advance

Chris.

Thank you John, I was thinking of using 4 x anti slip stops, don't recall seeing corner pieces like yours before except for woodworking...seems like a great idea!

Do you consider the x4 you show an ideal set, ie with x2 straight slots & x2 at 45*?

Would you still use paper between, or not necessary?

Chris.

Thank you John, that's encouraging to hear. I'm glad my first tee slot isnt at an angle like yours!

A Mars Bar before winding the handle will have to do for me! (-:

I understand you put paper between the mill bed and lump you are milling to help stop slippage, do you also use paper between clamps and the job ie on the top face?

Chris.

Thanks very much Emgee!

Chris.

Thank you. Yes I read about cutting the centre slot a tad deeper than the tee last night on another thread, good tip.
I can them take a final deeper cut to give a flat bottom.

Out of interest I just triple checked, (mines a Myford M type), all three tee slots vary very slightly but the rear one I made the tee nut for is 17mm or 11/16" at its widest, my tee nut is a touch under this for clearance. Then looked at ARC E. and see they have an 18mm wide tee cutter.

Looking at M machine they have EN1A or EN3 steel available in suitable sizes, would either of these be easier to mill the slots in, or harder?

Chris.

Hi John,
Thank you for that. My first thought was a pin in a base as you suggest, certainly easier and little chance of me messing it up.
But yes I'm concerned I might mislay the tee nut & bolt and the challenge of trying to do what I actually want to is still there....Yes I am concerned about how the Amolco will cope though....hmmmm

Thank you Andrew, ah ok great well at least its not a non starter then, I guess the only way I'm going to find out if the Amolco can cope is to try it, it will only be about 3" long cut (-:

I would hope to turn a moulding around to rim, would I be better cutting the slot first, if after it would be an interrupted cut?

Chris.