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Slipping drivebelt

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Gary Wooding29/12/2018 12:08:54
1074 forum posts
290 photos

I've been bequeathed a Naerok bandsaw, which appears to be identical to the Clarke cbs355. The black rubber? drive-belt has a 1/4" circular cross-section and a length of 23" approx. It looks undamaged but slips under very light load.

What's the best cure please?

not done it yet29/12/2018 12:51:10
7517 forum posts
20 photos

Hi Gary,

Looks like they might use any one of three different lengths of 7mm diameter belt. Might yours need a smaller belt than the one currently fitted?

**LINK**

Gary Wooding30/12/2018 07:53:19
1074 forum posts
290 photos

Thanks NDIY, but £30 a pop is somewhat extravagant.

not done it yet30/12/2018 08:18:08
7517 forum posts
20 photos

Gary,

If that is the case, you have a few options.

1) shorten your belt - glued or ‘welded together’?

2) Change one or the other of the pulleys, depending on whether you would prefer a faster or slower cut.

3) Wrap some good tape around one of the pulleys to ‘fill it out a bit’ and hope it wears well (probably only a temporary measure?)

4) Find a cheaper belt supplier.

5) Change to a narow section V belt system of some type (V, multi V...).

The single review on the Machinemart site amused me. The machine (no longer available) was constructed so flimsily that it broke, but the reviewer still gave it full marks! An insider review, methinks!

I.M. OUTAHERE30/12/2018 08:45:25
1468 forum posts
3 photos

Check that there is no oil or the like on the pulleys .

Paul Lousick30/12/2018 08:53:44
2276 forum posts
801 photos

Car accessory stores sell spray cans of belt grip solution that stops fan belts slipping. Clean belt and dive it a spray.

 

Edited By Paul Lousick on 30/12/2018 08:54:26

Michael Gilligan30/12/2018 11:38:17
avatar
23121 forum posts
1360 photos
Posted by Gary Wooding on 30/12/2018 07:53:19:

Thanks NDIY, but £30 a pop is somewhat extravagant.

.

As l have mentioned before; the Chinese equivalent seems to be of comparable quality to "Polycord" and is much cheaper. [caveat: I have only used the small diameters of the Chinese product]

MichaelG.

.

Ref. my post on 03/12/201

 https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=139082&p=1

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 30/12/2018 11:39:41

BC Prof30/12/2018 13:40:21
182 forum posts
1 photos

Looking at my 13yr old Clarke version the motor is foot mounted . The slots in the feet would be more than sufficient to allow both taking up the slack needed to stop the existing belt slipping or to accommodate a new belt . I purchased a spare from Machine Mart some 5 yrs a go . I can't remember the price but it certainly was not £30

Brian C

Howard Lewis30/12/2018 15:42:12
7227 forum posts
21 photos

Working on the assumption that the belt is not bottoming out in the pulleys If it is, you need a larger section belt.

If you choose to shorten the belt by cutting and rejoining, Cyanoacrylate ("Superglue" is the stuff to use. The cured joint will ,be stronger than the parent material. Cut square across the belt to remove the amount that you feel is necessary, breathe on the ends, apply the cyanoacrylate and hold the ends together for about 30 seconds. You will have a very few seconds to ensure that the alignment is correct. Once the adhesive cures fully, about 30 minutes, you should be ready to go!

Howard

not done it yet30/12/2018 15:47:31
7517 forum posts
20 photos

Howard,

I think round belts should drive on the full half-circumference? Not like V belts?

 

Edited By not done it yet on 30/12/2018 15:48:39

Dalboy30/12/2018 17:21:18
avatar
1009 forum posts
305 photos

I have this machine as well that I was given but there was no belt tensioner on it so I constructed one with a spring to aid keeping the belt tight enough to run and not slip. I use it as a second bandsaw for smaller items

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