we have two Joan & Shipman 540 surface grinders, the older one ( with a counter weight in the back) has an oil seal leake at the spnindle so we need to replace it. We have the gearbox drive case off the machine but no idea how we take the shaft out! Also how to adjust the end float! Please see photos below.

Looks like someone has had a great time belting the guts out of the locking collars. Will have a look in loft to see if I still have J&S service manuals, company I used to work for serviced 540s and fitted diaform attachments to them.

I had one of those counter-weight grinders, though it's long gone now. The shaft is held one two tapered bronze bushes that need very careful adjustment. You seem to be missing the oil slinger cover that causes the oil to pool in the reservoir and run back down the gallery to the wick feeder.

They don't have oil seals as I recall, or at least mine didn't I can't help you with the disassembly of yours since it looks different to mine, but if it helps at all here is mine all stripped apart.

**LINK**

Hi chaps thanks in advance for the help received so far, a bit of an update I been lookking at the spindall housing and I think we can repair it if only we could get the bloody thing apart, I’m struggling with two things at the moment the first is does any one know if the nut that holds the drive shaft in the pully on the inside of the machine is left or right hand thread and secondly how the hell are you supposed to grip the the shaft in order to undo the said nut, I’ve bits of the grinder all over at the moment sure would be good to get it working again.

Praying so far doesn’t seam to be making any difference.

Regards Alan.

To hold the shaft, I'd bore out a bit of scrap the same diameter as a wheel arbour, then cut is in half. Clamp the arbour firmly on the shaft, then clamp the arbour in a vice, using the bits of scrap to hold it. That'll hold the shaft quite firmly.

If you haven't got them already, get some hook and pin spanners. They work a lot better than the punches that some gorilla has already been using. I got some from Gedore at a surprisingly decent price.

As to the hand of the thread, best bet is to work on the assumption that any slipping of the pulley should serve to tighten the nut, same as the wheel arbour.

Thanks for getting back to me Mark, I think I understand what you mean but the spindle is in two pieces held together somehow in the middle by a collar of sorts, I’ve tried to tap the nut round-gently with a brass drift , it moved or at least I thought it did but it would seam it moved in the center coller if that makes sense, not really sure how to explain this, except it’s bending me head as a friend of mine says, i need to remake those collars as they are two badly damadged, I thought I could drill and ream the holes when I make them to suit some silver steel rod I have, but as you know I carnt get the bloody thing apart.

Thanks Alan.

Phone up Jones&Shipman (Hardinge now) in Leicester, with the serial number in hand, and see if they've got a manual. If not, Tony at www.lathes.co.uk might have sufficient data.

No answer 😕

Who?

We rang Hardinge no answer Mark.

Tony as only parts manuals not Sevice manuals.

You can often work out how things fit together using a parts book if it's any good.

Ian S C

A quick update, I’ve managed to get the drive nut of the end of the shat and then the rear bearing housing out, also removed the two damaged collars, now going to make two new ones, but still not sure how to adjust to end play out, I’m hoping I can understand it a bit more when I put it together, thanks for all the advice chaps much appreciated.

Alan.

Regards RobPete Rimmer you say you had one like this, could you pull the grinding wheel toward you & it would spring back say a mm or two.

No, not at all Rob. The position of the two round weights in the middle set the front/rear clearance as I recall.

Thank you Pete, Al have you read this?

This one is a bit different, the small springs hold the spindle back under pressure not sure how but that’s what it seams to do, you can move the grinding wheel towards you by maybe 2-3 mm but the springs pull it back and hold it in position, it’s looking like there’s a few variations of the head, should have said when you pull the wheel towards you it does need pressure to move it.

Alan

Any more luck phoning (the company previously known as) J&S at Leicester?

Should I form a search party?

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