12 Speed Bench Drill

With limited space and headroom in my shed I am looking for a 12 speed Bench Drill. The drills that I have found on the internet all seem to high for my shed, as it has a slope my maximum height is 850mm for a drill. There are several that are 850mm but when changing speeds the pulley guard needs to be lifted so will increase the height. Is it possible to cut a few inches of the top of the column on these type of drills. Or any suggestions of makes of drills 12 speed that are as small as the standard 5 speed .

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Do you actually need the gearing.? (for torque reasons)

What I am trying to say is how about a 6 speed with a 3 phase motor fitted and driven via a VFD to slot into speeds between gears.

Nick

Thanks for your reply Nick, but a VFD going to be a bit expensive for my needs. I have a 5 speed drill at the moment but its only a cheap one and its getting play on the spindle and its to fast one the lowest setting for 12mm drill. Has anyone got a Bosch PBD 40, they are a small drill with a 710 watt motor, reviews on these seem ok, but would like to have a feed back if any members has one.

Hi Alfie,

I have sent you a PM. Check the envelope icon 'INBOX' on the very top line of the page.

Rgds,

John

My workshop has a sloping roof, leaving only two possible locations for my drill (or on the floor...)

The limitation on dropping the head is the ring at the top of the rack, so for mine I think you could drop the head by 4", maybe 5", by cutting the pillar.

Alter the pulley guard? Was it the Tauco drill which only had a cover for the front pulley ?
**LINK**
I have a mill/drill with the back of the cover cut off as it runs in a restricted headroom space.
BobH

Alfie,

Dare I admit that I rarely change the drill speed on my Warco 12B....although I also don't often use really large bits in it (over 10mm) and for smaller holes (>2mm) I would probably use the Cowells instead. I can open the lid but need a chair to do so - so somehow it doesn't normally happen and it still seems to work OK generally...probably not good practice but there you go. Why don't you try it for a short while before you hack your drill about?

Most of my 'holes' seem to be in the 3-8mm range. Just be sure to use a sharp drill, cutting oil and clear the swarf away regularly...

Regards,

IanT

There are various ways of re-engineering, or re-making, the cover to need less clearance above the drill for it to open. Best to make a prototype or mock up before operating on yours tho'. I'd probably make from scratch, especially as I feel that a simple front pulley shield is fine in a personal workshop.

1) Arrange things so it slides off forwards rather than hinges up. Will need to operate on the back so it clears the motor pulley and arrange some sort of rail or rod for it to slide on which doesn't sound intrinsically impossible. Hafta remember to move the quill down a bit when opening or the sticky up end of the spindle will get in t'way.

2) Fit a simple, fixed, curved shield on the front similar the that on the Tauco linked to by Speedy Builder5. So long as the belt is adequately above hair height a front shield is pretty much as safe as a full cover. Especially if you run it round further to go past the side and partially over the top of the front pulleys in a similar manner to the Meddings Pacera L1 **LINK** (pictures about halfway down the page). Various Atlas models **LINK** were similarly arranged with a rather shorter shield.

3) The simple shield idea can easily be extended into a half or three quarters cover if you don't mind removing it to adjust the belts. Three slots, one at the front and one each side, with wing-nuts or wing bolts should be sufficient to hold it in place. Over centre catches and other fully engineered devices may be snazzier but I never feel the extra effort to get them installed properly is worth it for this sort of job.

4) At least one maker used a two part cover split lengthways with hinges on each side considerably reducing the overhead space needed for opening. I've seen one like this but unfortunately cant recall the brand.

Clive.

Had the same problem with my drill Warco 2B12 and had to cut a couple of inches off the top of the column,

Dave

When I bought my Warco drill second-hand it had a lower height home made stand. I didn't really like the idea and I did raise it a couple of inches. Now I think it's a good thing; you look down on the drill and the belt cover is more accessible.

Could you mount the drill press a little lower? Six inches would probably allow the belt cover to open.

Could it be sited in the area of maximum height?

Howard

Another thought, which in retrospect isn't that bad - sink the base of the drill into the bench top by the depth of the foot casting. That will give 2" extra headroom (leave the pulley cover off & bypass the 'nanny' switch) and then you will have enough room to change the belts and have the top of the foot casting level with the bench. I always find it a pain having the foot standing on the top of the bench.

Regards,

Richard.

Thought a couple of pictures would help show what I have. Brings working height of the drill table roughly same as lathe cross slide. It's 11 inches lower than the lathe bench and suits me!m

I have brought a new 12 speed bench drill and cut 30mm of the pillar and now fits perfect on the bench,

I can recommend Kendal Tools for the purchase, it was a unbelievable price with next day free delivery, and £60 cheaper than on e-bay.

All fitted together ok and no play in the spindle,and a 16mm chuck, 220 to 2450 rpm.

Thanks for the advice