Member postings for SteveW

When my lathe (WM250) developed very similar symptoms I found that a resistor on the control board was not seated correctly. Once pressed in all back to normal.

Picture in album (of course may be different control board!)

Steve

A large casting, having been extensively machined had the word ‘scrape’ written on it with chalk to wait for a fork-lift to take it away. However some wag rubbed out the’e’ meaning it was taken out the back of the factory and dumped with other unwanted metal to wait for the scrap-man. The next few weeks saw an increasing number of ‘progress chasers’ wandering in confused circles complete with clipboards.

it was found and chalk was banned!

We nearly had a Central Resources and Planning team. Averted just in time...

I’m assuming you can’t actually see the carriage stopping but only a regular banding along the length of your workpiece. I think the is not uncommon - from time to time I’ve seen it on work I have done. I think most likely reason is some harmonic frequency. I just try and reduce the visual effect by using a tool with a reasonable radius on the tip rather than a real point. Of course after making sure gibs are adjusted. I think it only shows on the finish rather than leaving ridges. Also worse with ‘finishing’ cuts.

Steve

I’ve had a roller door from Access doors for about 10 years. Very space saving and insulates making it ok to work in with 20 minutes of a fan fire. I found Access ok to deal with and the installation is neat. I just had to provide a 13a socket.

SteveW

Not from personal experience but I do have two friends who do have Parkinsons. My observation is that this disease progresses at different speeds in individuals. In both cases they still enjoy being able to take part in practical pastimes, talking to like minded enthusiasts and sharing their considerable skills. For one welding is no longer a possibility but teaching others is. Another observation is that expert medical advice is key. So I would say keep going as long as you feel comfortable possibly downsizing equipment if that makes sense.

Welcome!

It’s always nice to see what other people get up to in the workshop. More variety the better!

steve

I had same symptoms. Cured by resetting resistor on control board that was not fully seated in its socket. Has been no problem since. I understand the resistor is socketed so it can be matched to the particular motor that is installed.

Steve

I have a few samples of a building cladding that is very like ‘formica’ with a coloured surface and a brown back just like the old Formica. I have some that have a wood grain finish as well as solid colours. Trouble is it is approx 5/6mm thick. Very hard, stiff and flat. I’ve used scraps for the base of small engines.

Would sectors cut from a ice-hockey puck be too stiff? Could have a hole drilled to ‘tune’ them to what is needed.

i remember our history teacher having one and driving it with gusto.

steve

I measured what drained out to get a rough idea (I didn’t have much of a leak!) and used that as a starting point. Trouble was the sight-glass on my WM250 gives a poor view of the oil level inside.

Steve

I’ve painted lines on what remains of the old Croydon airport using spray paint and a white line device from a hire shop. It was quite easy (I was following worn lines), I didn’t get much on my shoes! It was fine for what we wanted but only lasted for a few years and soon got weathered.

I’d be a bit careful to temper appropriately. My stepfather had a hammer chip embedded in his finger caused by a RAF erk whacking two hammers together. Stayed with him all his life. If I had to make a special shape hammer I think I’d try grinding an old hammer head to suit.

Need to know size and what a oval round shape is. A drawing is worth a thousand words. Possible to generate an ellipse with a few sticks but 2D not 3D.

Tools that come as part of a set are very often much too wide for a hobby lathe. In my view 3mm is just about OK but less makes things a lot easier. Too thin and things get weak.

Steve

I always ask which machine it’s for. They never know. If I ask if it’s for the Hotpoint they always say ‘yes’ but our machine is a Bosch and we’ve never had a service contract. Just a nuisance doubly so as I have a phone in the workshop and they work with the gremlins to hide the tools while my attention is elsewhere.

Steve

Q Max punches do some square and round punches. They work well in aluminium but struggle a bit in steel. Once very popular for valve sockets in old electronic equipment.

I would say not worth it on a lathe. On a mill very worthwhile. Depends a bit on your skill level I guess but a dro on a lathe doesn’t make it much easier to use. Using a mill is often more coordinate based so the benefit is much more apparent. Of course there is a skill in using the dro to its best advantage.

It’s a rotary table. Usually used with a milling machine to hold a workpiece and turn it by a known angle. So you could machine a curve (arc) or by turning at a regular interval a hexagon. There are a few videos on YouTube.

Followers were flat and highly polished with lightweight pushrods. No signs of wear. The internals of the engine were quite high quality.

if something like it was available for a model size engine it would encourage me to have a go and I guess ,like most other model engineers, I’d be happy if it ran for 15 minutes every now and again.

Steve