Knurling tool drawing.

Hello all.

I would like to make myself a knurling tool to suit my super 7, would anyone have a drawing i could have ?

Thanks in advance.

Brian

There's quite a few on Homemadetools.net so I'm sure you should get some ideas off there.

Bill

Hi Brian,

I have made a socalled scissor/clamp type knurling tool, you can find a description with a simple drawing here.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 15/06/2017 17:51:11

..and another **LINK**

I made this one from a quick sketch I did sized to fit my lathe.

Vic:

Nice-looking tool. What is that attractive grey finish?

It's been sand blasted then given a coat of Renwax.

Thanks guys for the responses, where would be the best place to get the knurles ?

Vic:

Thanks. I assume this is the same as Renaissance Wax. New to me and I may give it a try.

Hi Brian,

One place would be ARCeurotrade, these are diamond knurling wheels.

Thor

Edited By JasonB on 21/06/2017 19:57:23

I'd guess you're pretty much sorted by now, Brian, but here's a slightly different approach. It's from a design by Graham Meek in EiM, November, 2013. In another thread about knurling tools, suggestions were made to the enquirer to the effect that his wheel pivot pins, which were retained by nuts, would benefit from them being fitted on the side away from the chuck, to both allow closer running of the tool to the chuck and minimise the possibility of a nut/chuck collision (sounds painful ). On my original version, I staked the wheel pins to the arms to achieve the same aim, but, of course, this precluded the changing of the wheels for different styles of knurl. I've recently bought a new QCTP and this encouraged me to revisit the knurling tool to improve it a bit. I milled off the integrated dovetail mount (for my old QCTP) and fitted a piece of 12mm x 12mm steel stock which fits in a standard toolholder. At the same time I removed the staked pivot pins and made up a pair of slimline clevis pins, retained with external circlips as shown below.

I've hunted high and low for the magazine, but fear it has been mislaid in our move back to the UK a couple of years ago. Anyway, I think that there would have been copyright issues with reproducing the drawings here, anyway.

Above, the new mount bolted on in place of the milled-off integrated dovetail mount. (You can see the original in my album "Bedfordshire Workshop", should you feel so inclined! ) Also, the clevis pin retaining circlips are visible

The thinner-than-normal heads of the clevis pins, shown here. Changing wheels is much easier, involving just the removal of the circlips and then spending hours hunting for them on the garage floor after they've pinged off into oblivion. Not only me that happens to, surely?

More food for thought for you. Have fun, whichever design you choose.

John

Hi,

I also like the Graham Meek design. A while back I emailed him and he very kindly sent me the drawings for it in pdf format. Very nicely drawn up it is too. Shortly after at the ally pally show I bought a copy of his book of projects as a thank you.

Based on the correspondence I had I think he would prefer you to contact him rather than me forward you the drawings. Having said that if he sent them to me (a total stranger) then I expect he would send them to you. Sadly he no longer posts on this forum but is active on modelenginemaker.com and possibly others.

Steve

Yes, that's the stuff.

ARC EURO sell a clamp type knurling tool, and Hemingway also sell a kit, if you want to make your own.

Other suppliers, such as Chester, Warco, or RDG , no doubt, have an offering that may be what you need.

If you have drawings, you can always, within reason, scale things up or down, to suit your needs. Personally i would opt for as large a range as is practicable, and standardise on knurling rolls that are available. (Might be worth buying pairs of wheels for Coarse, Medium and Fine, if the budget will run to it.)

Howard

The three wheel hand clamped "nutcracker" style has a lot going for it on smaller lathes and smaller jobs. Means getting an extra knurl but worth it in my view.

This is a commercial one but plans for a close copy were published in Model Engineer dated 29 January 1999. Folded sheet arms may be a touch tricky but re-working for something machined from solid isn't hard. Need to watch the weight tho' as it will be unpleasant to use if it comes out too heavy. Plans for similar device were published in the American magazine Popular Mechanics some time in the 1950's but considerably larger with a screw clamp device rather than squeeze against a stop like mine. If I ever unearth a good set of plans I might give it a try.

Great thing is that it puts minimal strain on the lathe and is very fast to use. Especially if its a simple ruff job for a bit more grip. Took about a minute to put some grip on a rivet snap for fixing a new handle on a garden fork. Rivets were wrong size for my snap set and customer was champing at the bit as I had him doing the "you hold it down while I hit it" thing!

Clive.

Edited By Clive Foster on 19/06/2017 17:51:34

Apologies. The Popular Mechanics version is from the May 1965 issue. Article by Walter E Burton, pages 175 to 178. My search on Nutcracker Knurler bought up a Google Books result more than good enough to build it from.

Can't copy & download tho' so hafta make notes and work off the screen.

Clive

I described making this one in MEW Issue 72.

Thanks all for taking the time to reply, some good suggestions.

I like the idea of the Hemingway design, wonder if they would just sell me the drawing without the materials ?

Anyhow..thanks again.

.

Thanks for that, Clive

Here's the **LINK** for the convenience of others.

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=buQDAAAAMBAJ&q=knurl#v=onepage&q=knurl&f=true

MichaelG.

I can let you have a decent copy of the PM version, Clive. PM me if interested.