Adhesive Recommends for uPVC Door

Having had some scrote force the bottom door panel out of our new uPVC door, by the simple expedient use of what appears to be a large screwdriver to pop out the internal panel fillets, it occurred to me that if the installer had used a decent cement / adhesive to fix the fillets, the task would have been an order of magnitude more difficult.

Any recommends for an adhesive / cement?

Regards

Steve.

PS: Said scrote seems to have made off with a rucksack containing a bike pump, puncture repair kit and some dirty underwear...

Upvc solvent cement from a plumbers merchant.

Spare us the details of the dirty underwear, Steve

But try this: **LINK**

http://www.my-sds.co.uk/Admin/ViewDocument.aspx?ID=3f107f97-48f4-4660-b3ff-d3715f2c50b1&primaryReportId=0

FlowPlast product, readily available from Screwfix etc.

MichaelG.

Cyno (superglue) is what all the fitters use to stick trims and mouldings.

Everbuild do a white UPVC adhesive that does not show like the clear pipe cement from the plumbers, I have used this to stick the end trims to cill sections ( pre FENSA) when I fitted a few windows.

There is also an adhesive double sided tape for bonding the glass and PVC panels to the fixed rebate of the frame

Internal gaskets are the answer to windows and doors ,this makes it difficult to break in.

Frank

Personally I'd fit a steel-clad solid wood door in a PVC frame. Those materials are normal practice for good home security where I am (Ontario Canada) and they are commonly available, although they cost a bit more than all wood or all PVC doors which are also common but are considered lower end / builders' grade products.

Steel clad solid wood is hard to beat for break in resistance and there are many patterns of embossing available to suit many decors.

Good luck with your repairs. While repairing, could you add a steel layer in the door? JD

Hello Steve, I fitted hundreds of the uPVC doors over the years. There are little stainless "security" clips available for some plastic profiles, they are fitted before the beads are snapped in.
Some infil panels have powder coated ally skins, some just 2 ply of 1mm uPVC (which may be moulded) and a foam interlayer, these are quite flexible and a good kick can push them out, especially if they are a slack fit.
If you are certain you'll never have to service the corner lock parts from the inside then plumbers solvent (as mentioned above) will weld the beads in permanently.
Do make sure the panel is 'toed&heeled' with the stepped plastic wedges when you refit it, this helps stop the door dropping.

Hi John I have some small wedges fitted to my PVC doors never really took much notice of them other than they are left loose to slide on the bottom trim so now you have made the point about the door dropping how far if from the edge of the door do you recommend I fix them ?

H

Unfortunately your door supplier didn't offer "Internally glazed". Might cost a bit more but the beading would have been on the inside of the door. Doesn't stop the perps kicking the panel in (Usual way of getting through them) but will stop unclipping the glazing bead from outside. Steel faced door panels are available which are two skins of steel with an expanded polystyrene core. There is a cheaper "Laminate" of 2mm UPVC skin/3mm MDF/eps core/2mmUPVC., offers a bit more kick resistance.

Regards Ian

PS. Cyano is not waterproof.

I was told that these doors came along because they are supposed to be more secure than the older wooden doors? So i take it they didn't manage to breach the entrance but still as annoyingly, remove a panel?

The fact that they've tried it is a little worrying, as you don't know if they might come back..

I've heard tales on here of some thieves going to extreme lengths to breach the high security of some workshops and personally a man i knew, had some copper wire taken from his personal workshop, although, to be fair, he did leave it in view of the window, which i would never do with precious metals.

Hope you manage to get back on your feet alright.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 31/12/2016 09:33:57

Thanks to the availability of battery operated power tools NO door is 100% secure. Total security is a 12 bore, but look what happens when you protect your property. The birch is a good deterrent ( ask anyone who was caned for instance) but just like Banking, Insurance companies are happy to hold their hands out doing an "Oliver" rather than solving the problem.

Regards Ian.

Hi Harry, typically the wedges work in pairs. I would set them an inch or so from the corners. There may be pads they sit on in the rebates. These keep the wedges flat and stop them tipping which could catch or pinch on a glass edge and prevent the glass sliding 'home' when the gaskets are fitted.
Tighten the lower hinge side and the upper edge on the handle side. A slight 'spring' while tightening them helps pre-load the wedges. Don't go mad or the multi point lock pins won't register correctly, just lift the door a mm or two so it settles at the correct height.
You can then set the other corners to lightly contact.
In theory you can check for square by measuring corner to corner, but in practice make it fit the frame.
The hinges sometimes have eccentric bushes you can turn to adjust the shut of the door.

Edited By john carruthers on 31/12/2016 09:43:44

Think you may be talking at cross purposes. Difference between glazing packing wedges and door lower edge support wedges.

Regards Ian.

Read the opening post "use of what appears to be a large screwdriver to pop out the internal panel fillets"

Cyno is fine unless you plan to have your door/window permanently submerged!

Edited By JasonB on 31/12/2016 10:26:12

Let's hope he washes it before using it

Neil