Tangential tool holder

Hi,I am going to try and make a tangential tool holder, of the ones on the net which do you think is the best design?Does anyone have step by step pictures or video of making one?

The best one is one that you can make, fits your machine and does what you want. Only you can design this tool. Here's my own design.

Martin

Couple of pictures of mine in case it helps.

If you follow the link to my album you will find pics and a rough sketch of mine. The tool bit clamp is hand profiled to avoid the tool fouling the work piece when facing and the two screws ensure no tool bit slippage whilst under load. A very useful and versatile tool with the tool bit (cobalt) easily sharpened in its simple jig against the vertical sanding disk on my linisher. Well worth making.>>

PS Since the sharpening jig sketch was drawn I have added a simple strap clamp to hold the tool bit tight whilst sharpening.

Rik >>

**LINK**>>

Edited By Rik Shaw on 04/09/2016 11:34:02

Sharpening jigs. The alloy one is mine. The black one comes with the Eccentric tool.

HI Andy,

Here is how I made mine. The first one I made for my smaller lathe, it uses 1/8" HSS tool bits since I had a box of them. I have since made another one for my larger lathe using 6mm HSS tool bits. They work very well, and as Vic has shown, it is easy to grind the tool bit.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 04/09/2016 12:16:14

This is a good thread

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,712.45.html

When I made mine I remembered the 3 magic angles : incline 12 degrees towards headstock, 12 degrees towards lathe axis and grind the tool at 30 degrees.

Set a piece of metal up in the mill vice accordingly and you can make something very ugly and primitive but it will work.

A lesser known property of these tools is that if yoiu turn the tool around 90 degrees you then get a shear tool for doing a fine finish.

http://metalworkforums.com/f65/t180275-tangential-trickery?highlight=tangential

Thank's for the replies guys plenty of ideas.Is it important to use a particular type of steel would it need hardened when finished?

Hi Andy,

When I made mine I used a steel with a bit more carbon than you usually find in mild steel - about 0.3% to 0.4% IIRC. Mild steel would probably work Ok, a harder steel might last longer though. I have not hardened any of my tool holders.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 04/09/2016 15:35:20

Vic,

Did you 'parkerize' that and if so what's your technique?

Neil

"Did you 'parkerize' that and if so what's your technique?

It was just sand blasted if I remember right.

Rik

Yes quite right. It was just sand blasted and then wiped over with WD40 or Renwax.

Hi Andy

How about this one made by Michael Cox **LINK**

It uses a parallelogram to get one of the 12 degrees. This means you don't have to cut a compound angle.

Cheers Michael.

I don't have a tilting or a swivelling vice. All I did to make mine was to swing my 4" vice round 12° to the table then mount a 2" vice in it at 12°. The work piece was then clamped in the smaller vice. Once the slot was cut and the hole drilled, tapped and counterbored the work piece was remounted in the straightened 4" vice and milled to size.

Edited By Vic on 05/09/2016 09:55:18

I made mine a while ago...

...but I'm currently investigating the Wimberley which I think has some advantages particular as a right hand hogger of material.

It doesn't need to hang below the bottom of the bottom of the tool-holder and the flank wear of the cutting bit is naturally ground off in sharpening.

If you get any flank wear with the tangential toolholder you sometimes need to grind off quite a lot of the tool tip to get below it.

HTH

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 05/09/2016 10:44:01