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Bench grinder bearing replacment

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Rainbows22/08/2016 20:53:54
658 forum posts
236 photos

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Bought a wolf bench grinder but it has a case of squeaky bearings.

Does anyone have an idea of a good way to press the bearings out? The body is made up of three parts. The two end pieces hold the bearings and the middle is a spacer between them. Can't touch the bearings without splitting the casing into constituent parts.

I was thinking of heating the bearing housing on one side, whacking the shaft of that side and hoping the other half of the housing pops off. That sounds like a lot o hitting with a hammer to me though.

Anyone happen to have disassembled one or worked in the wolf factory? Can't find a model similar on Ralliwolf or internet. Don't really know what it looks like inside.

Mike Poole22/08/2016 21:27:58
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3676 forum posts
82 photos

I would go with tapping the shaft with a soft faced mallet, a few not too heavy taps should show whether the end housing is going to part from the body easily. There may be some notches on the joint line to allow a flat punch to be use to help part the cases. The shaft should not be too tight a fit in the bearing and should knock through without too much force. Extreme force should not be required or used.

Mike

Hopper23/08/2016 04:22:01
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7881 forum posts
397 photos

Tap around the joint lines of the three castings with soft hammer first to free them up if possible.

Speedy Builder523/08/2016 07:42:58
2878 forum posts
248 photos

Clean the shafts up before trying to remove bearings. Perhaps whilst you can still spin them up.

mechman4823/08/2016 10:07:13
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2947 forum posts
468 photos

The two end casings should separate with some gentle tapping, looking at your pics it shows the castings are 3 separate castings bolted together, & you've already removed them.

George.

Ajohnw23/08/2016 10:14:55
3631 forum posts
160 photos

Hold one half in your hand and use a mallet on that end of the shaft. I'd probably do this with the grinder on a flat surface to support the weights as it comes apart. If that doesn't work fasten one half down so you can hit a bit harder.

I've got one to do as well and have been wondering about a simple way of checking the balance of the armature without the sort of gear that is used to check grinding wheels etc.

John

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Neil Wyatt23/08/2016 18:49:15
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

You have four nice screwed holes at each end, you can use these to screw on some bar and then use a flywheel puller to push the shaft in.

Neil

Les Jones 123/08/2016 19:44:56
2292 forum posts
159 photos

One cheap grinder I dismantled (To make it reversible for a tool grinder.) had the bearing at one end loctited in.(I assume to provide axial location.) The other end was a light press fit to allow for the different expansion of the case and the rotor. So it is worth tapping the shaft from both ends as it will come out more easily one way. Also be careful not to rip off the wires from the winding to the centrifugal switch.

Les.

Rainbows23/08/2016 20:49:11
658 forum posts
236 photos

I hit it with a table leg and it worked out. Applied heat first and in the end it came out quite easy.

Glad it is just the bearings cause I have no idea how the electrics here work. The brush is attacked to the shaft and one casting has two copper rings in it.

Rainbows23/08/2016 22:14:20
658 forum posts
236 photos

Turns out the bearings are FBC RN202? Well I can't find anything on the internet that matches RN202. Turns out that appears to equate to 6202 2RS. Anyone know differently? The dimensions of the two types are the same. Could be something hidden in the clearance or seals to change the lettering?

KWIL24/08/2016 09:57:21
3681 forum posts
70 photos

Not a coincidence that both contain "202"?

I would expect 6202 2RS would do nicely, cheap enough.

Ketan Swali24/08/2016 10:08:54
1481 forum posts
149 photos

Ranbows,

It is probably a 6202-2RS. The 'N' ' might be' a grove on the outer ring. Other then that, only differences may be in the grease type and content / balls - quantity at that time / cage type / raceway clearance C0 or other. No big deals now though.

Looked at the FBC online catalogue and my own cross reference catalogues, non of wich deal with the 'RN', which might have been an factory internal ref.number.

Ketan at ARC.

Michael Gilligan24/08/2016 10:09:15
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos

According to several suppliers ... RN202 is a Roller Bearing !!

Example: **LINK**

http://www.tradebearings.com/rn202-eccentric-bearing-15x30x11mm-product-168183.html

.

It is, however, much more likely that you have an obsolete part number.

6202 2RS is a 6202 size [ball] bearing with 2 Rubber Seals

MichaelG.

.

Edit: My post is superfluous ... Ketan has spoken yes

 

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 24/08/2016 10:10:58

Keith Long24/08/2016 10:11:53
883 forum posts
11 photos

Rainbows - it may not be relevant but in the old RHP catalogue that I've got it does give a "NR" suffix for the 6202 bearing as a possible variant. The NR means that the outer race would have a circiip fitted into a groove, presumably to give axial location in a housing. Does your bearing have such a fitting? Just seems that NR and RN could be different makers way of denoting the same thing.

not done it yet24/08/2016 11:54:54
7517 forum posts
20 photos

Take the old bearigs to your local bearing factor. They will (or should) know either the bearing or an equivalent.

Hopper25/08/2016 01:40:03
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7881 forum posts
397 photos
Posted by not done it yet on 24/08/2016 11:54:54:

Take the old bearigs to your local bearing factor. They will (or should) know either the bearing or an equivalent.

^^^^^ Always the safest bet.

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