By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Problem Cutting an Internal Thread in a Welded Pipe

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
SillyOldDuffer07/01/2016 16:44:19
10668 forum posts
2415 photos

I'm trying to cut a thread inside a length of 3/4" i/d mild steel pipe with a mini-lathe. The pipe is exactly the right size for my application but it has been made with a welded seam that's left a ridge running inside the tube.

img_5009.jpg

The weld is very hard and it defeats my threading tool:

img_5007.jpg

I've tried skimming the ridge off with a carbide boring tool but it also bounces over the weld without much effect.

Can anyone tell me how I might overcome the weld line please?

Many thanks,

Dave

JasonB07/01/2016 16:48:57
avatar
25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

Heat pipe to bright red and keep it there for 10 mins and then allow to cool as slowly as possible, this should help. ERW tube is nasty stuff to machine though - very grabby.

Muzzer07/01/2016 16:49:50
avatar
2904 forum posts
448 photos

Are you sure it's mild steel ie no carbon content?

Try annealing the end where you are trying to thread? Presumably it's the result of the resistance welding process causing hardness judging by the carbide not working. Got a blowlamp? Wouldn't take long to try it and find out.

Sounds as if ERW steel is typically SAE1010 ie 0.1% carbon, so sounds plausible. No experience of it myself mind....

Edited By Muzzer on 07/01/2016 16:52:07

Tony Pratt 107/01/2016 17:19:51
2319 forum posts
13 photos

Are you using the biggest possible diameter boring tool? If so it shouldn't bounce over the weld.

Tony

John Stevenson07/01/2016 17:53:08
avatar
5068 forum posts
3 photos

Use a sanding bobbin in a dremel or similar and get rid of the weld first.

frank brown07/01/2016 19:28:50
436 forum posts
5 photos

I have used John's method and it seems to work, tho' I doubt if NASA would approve.

Frank

SillyOldDuffer07/01/2016 19:58:04
10668 forum posts
2415 photos

Thanks guys! Good ideas AND an excuse to buy a bigger boring bar. I'll try the Dremel approach first as I'm slightly less likely to burn the house down with it.

I'm pretty sure it's mild steel because I bought it from a proper metal supplier - it's not an odd bit of scrap. I didn't know it was called "ERW" though: I'm in danger of becoming educated!

Ta,

Dave

John Stevenson07/01/2016 20:10:11
avatar
5068 forum posts
3 photos

ERW = Electric Resistance Welded.

It's made from a flat strip pulled off a roll and then rolled into a tube. They then stuff a load of volts and amps into it and it welds the seam together

Danny M2Z07/01/2016 20:59:14
avatar
963 forum posts
2 photos

A Dremel may get rid of the ridge but the hardened seam still remains.

JasonB & Muzzer's heat treatment suggestions look like the way to go.

* Danny M *

Gordon W08/01/2016 09:17:07
2011 forum posts

Grind the ridge off, heat treat, thickest boring bar and cross your fingers. If the job needs strength you may have to re-weld on the outside. I've never had much luck doing it, don't know why because threading the outside is usually easy.

Hopper08/01/2016 09:50:58
avatar
7881 forum posts
397 photos

Get a bit of seamless tubing - slightly more expensive maybe but not enough to break teh bank.

Martin Newbold08/01/2016 10:01:30
415 forum posts
240 photos

I agree seamless tubing is the way to go . It will save you a lot of problems . Heating and cooling the tube might weaken it am not from NASA lol

Ian S C08/01/2016 11:02:12
avatar
7468 forum posts
230 photos

When I built my second Stirling Engine, I used Water pipe for the cylinder, when I bored the cylinder(no trouble with the weld), I was nearing the final size, then "ping", the weld let go, I clamped the cylinder in the vice, and ran a weld down the outside, finished the bore, the motor still runs, in fact gets better as it ages.

Ian S C

SillyOldDuffer08/01/2016 15:24:16
10668 forum posts
2415 photos

If I was a betting man I would have put money on heat-treating, but 10 minutes of red-heat didn't soften the weld all that much. (It was noticeably easier on the threading tool though. )

s5018.jpg

Grinding the weld off with the Dremel worked rather better, which suggests to me that it's only the visible weld ridge on this bit of pipe that's particularly hard.

s5016.jpg

Gordon W's suggestion would have been overkill in my case but I can well believe that his 'belts and braces' approach might be essential on other pipes. I'm learning that, when it comes to machining it, there are often huge differences between similar looking metals even when they have the same name.

Hopper and Martin both make very good points about seamless. Next time that's what I'll ask for. Another disadvantage of heat-treatment is that restoring the finish later is even more work. And weakening the seam of a pipe that's also been undermined by cutting a thread could well be problematic even if I'm not working for NASA!

Thanks again,

Dave

John Stevenson08/01/2016 16:08:07
avatar
5068 forum posts
3 photos

That looks a cracking job. I'll send you the drawings for the Shuttle steering jet nozzles and a length of scaffold pole......

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate